Biometric Handle Sizing

FortyTwoBlades

FortyTwoBlades

Baryonyx walkeri
Dealer / Materials Provider
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Mar 8, 2008
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Does anyone else practice biometric handle sizing? That is to say, using body measurements to proportion the length of tool handles? I find that tools of all sorts move more naturally for me when they're done according to that method. The True Temper Dynamic Hatchet I just hung is on a handle equal in length to the measure from the outside of my elbow to my knuckles and it just moves wonderfully. I've made a habit of making handles this way whenever feasible and am curious if it's something anyone else here does.
 
The next time I break the handle on my hatchet, I'm definitely trying your method out. I can honestly say I've never even thought about doing that, but it really makes a lot of sense. Your body gets used to certain measurements and to incorporate that into a tool, well that's a recipe for success.

Super cool idea, man!
 
In the case of the hatchet it gave me a good size that allowed a handle long enough to do serious chopping with but not so long that it'd be an encumbrance when choking up under the head. For boy's axe sizes I generally like the handle to tuck under the armpit with my hand wrapping over the top of the head. For full sized axes I like it to go from the floor to the socket of my hip (not crest, but the actual joint.)
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
The problem isnt so much the lengt of the body as it is the strenght of the body. For instance, i use a hammer of 10 pounds singlehandedly. What You really want to measure with an ace is the applied force per inch or cm of contact area. You can measure what You like the best and go from there. Adding a longer handle with the Same headweight Will result in more force. The Same goes for the Same size handle and a heavier Head. If You calculate that You could compare the strengt it Will take to reach a given penetration or speed.
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This has nothing to do with head weight/body strength. You can use this method for long or short handles with light or heavy heads. It has more to do with control and ease of manipulation in space. There's something more intuitive for me about using biometrically sized handles that makes them more pleasant to use. That may not be the case for everyone, but that's why I asked. :)
 
Fortytwo, I don't do it like that at all but I can tell you that 16" to 18" seems to be my sweet spot and I have found nothing to be gained by going longer. I have tried, even recently and I pick up no power and a loss of accuracy. And with a handle shape comes into play so nobody grips it at the end.
 
This is where life experience with different versions of the same thing come into play. Could be if you grow up with a specific length/head weight of something that that is what you gravitate to from there on in. Sure the boss at work may issue something else which you learn to live with it. I know what I'm comfortable with and what feels 'off' but I've never gotten scientific with tape measures, protractors or weigh scales to try to define it. It's probably of merit that you're looking at this out of curiousity. I did learn years ago (licensed carpenter) that there often isn't a radical difference between "toe stubber" or "tripper"-type stairs and "easy sailing" stairs. Have a snoot full of high test and you aren't long discovering which is which.
 
Square_peg said:
I size the handle to the work and the weight of the head.
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That's what I do as well, but the specific size I go with is the biometric size I'm able to establish that's closest to that approximate length I'm shooting for. For instance, elbow to outstretched fingertip would have been longer than I wanted for this head but elbow to wrist would have been too short. Elbow to knuckles was just right.
 
300Six said:
This is where life experience with different versions of the same thing come into play. Could be if you grow up with a specific length/head weight of something that that is what you gravitate to from there on in. Sure the boss at work may issue something else which you learn to live with it. I know what I'm comfortable with and what feels 'off' but I've never gotten scientific with tape measures, protractors or weigh scales to try to define it. It's probably of merit that you're looking at this out of curiousity. I did learn years ago (licensed carpenter) that there often isn't a radical difference between "toe stubber" or "tripper"-type stairs and "easy sailing" stairs. Have a snoot full of high test and you aren't long discovering which is which.
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You bring up some great points. It's amazing how quickly hand eye coordination can compensate for different handle lengths and the stair analogy is dead on. A half inch riser difference mid run would be much like changing a handle length mid swing, with worse consequences.
 
I'm most accurate with a handle thats 26-28" to the bottom of the head with a nice skinny profile. So basically a slightly longer boys axe handle, but I've found big 4lb Connecticut heads are my favorite. Easy to carry, doesn't get hung up on the back swing in the woods, more than enough oomph for pine and works well on maple too.
 
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