Birch bark, epoxy or not?

U

unoriginal name

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Nov 28, 2025
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I've heard you can make a handle with stacked birch bark handle without using any glue. Just put it in the oven while it's in a press. Using brass in the front and back and peen the tang.

The question is whether I should go natural or not? What are the pros and cons when using epoxy or not?

I don't want the pieces to shift when the handle is done. If I don't use epoxy and isn't satisfied with the handle is it hard to take it apart before the tang is peened?
 
On a stacked BB handle, I find Tightbond wood glue works best ... and is a lot easier to clean up than epoxy.


Wrap the blade well with saran wrap and then tape tightly with blue painters tape.
Work over a large disposable baking pan or old casserole pan. It will catch all the dripping. You can wash it out and use it over and over again.
Thin the glue so it is pretty runny, about 2 parts glue to 1 part water. Put in a bowl. Set the bowl in the pan.
Dunk the piece of bark in the dish, put it on, next, next, etc. It goes pretty fast.
When all is stacked, put the cap piece on and clamp in a handle clamp as tight as you can. Wipe off excess dripping.
Let dry a couple days and unclamp. Cut to length and peen the tang.
Grind as normal for a stacked handle. Finish with files and sandpaper.
Apply a finish if desired. BLO works well on birchbark.
 
While it would be fun to try the traditional way and maybe I will one day. I have to agree with Cliff and enjoy the marvel of modern adhesive.

Thanks for the wood glue tip.
Is there something special about Tightbond or will any wood glue work?
 
Any standard wood glue should work for a stacked handle. It would be best if it is an outdoor grade.

Tightbond Ultimate is my standard wood glue for most non-knife wood projects, because it is waterproof and very strong. I buy it in a gallon jug and put it into a pint squeeze bottle for use. The gallon is 1/3 the price per ounce compared to the smaller bottles.
Tightbond-2 is interior-exterior and is fine for most projects. Tightbond-Original is interior glue and costs the same as Tightbond -2, so I see no reason to use the original type.

For building knives, I use System-Three or West System epoxy, along with various speed part-B.
For cyanoacrylic glue, I use Starbond or Mercury brands. I use the same brand accelerator with them.
 
unoriginal name said:
While it would be fun to try the traditional way and maybe I will one day. I have to agree with Cliff and enjoy the marvel of modern adhesive.

Thanks for the wood glue tip.
Is there something special about Tightbond or will any wood glue work?
Click to expand...
Titebond 3, green label, is a different beast to Titebond 2, blue label. It is runnier to begin with, sets slower, and is more water proof. I would not use the Evostik “waterproof” wood glue I can buy from local hardware stores for a knife handle. It’s more like water resistant. Gorilla glue, a foaming polyurethane has been recommended by some in the past, but its total lack of gap filling ability makes it less good than epoxy.
Chris
 
After a lifetime working with wood and wood glue this seemed strange to me also when I started working with 2 part epoxy’s. Wood glue on wood needs to be clamped tight, epoxy needs some gap, don’t squeeze it all out or the joint is starved.
Not a very good explanation but I’m sure someone can fill in the blanks scientifically.
 
You are impregnating a rough and porous surface on birchbark. The glue seals and bonds the pieces, but is not not a structural bond. It is a filler-sealer. The clamping compresses the bark together, or you would have larger gaps in the handle.

Much different than joining a wood scale on a tang.
 
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Thanks Dan & Stacy. As in all good explanations, it makes sense.
 
The brass doesn't glue to the bark well at all ... but it doesn't matter, as a BB handle is compressed between the blade guard or front cap and the butt cap. Once peened, nothing can move or separate. As explained earlier, the glue makes the BB more of a solid block. It also seals gaps. It isn't really a bonding situation.

I will expand on what Dan said.
Raw wood-to-wood joints seem flat and flush, but are filled with millions of pores and microscopic grooves. The wood itself is also absorbent. The water based glues penetrate into the wood and bind the fibers together. A wood-to-wood joint is usually stronger that the wood. Even epoxy penetrates a bit. In may cases, a quality wood glue, like Tightbond Ultimate (AKA Tightbond 3) is stronger than epoxy on a wood joint.
Exotic woods, laminates, stabilized wood, and metal are not that way. That is why epoxies are better there and you only want light clamping ... as well as well roughed surfaces at no finer than 120 grit.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
On a stacked BB handle, I find Tightbond wood glue works best ... and is a lot easier to clean up than epoxy.


Wrap the blade well with saran wrap and then tape tightly with blue painters tape.
Work over a large disposable baking pan or old casserole pan. It will catch all the dripping. You can wash it out and use it over and over again.
Thin the glue so it is pretty runny, about 2 parts glue to 1 part water. Put in a bowl. Set the bowl in the pan.
Dunk the piece of bark in the dish, put it on, next, next, etc. It goes pretty fast.
When all is stacked, put the cap piece on and clamp in a handle clamp as tight as you can. Wipe off excess dripping.
Let dry a couple days and unclamp. Cut to length and peen the tang.
Grind as normal for a stacked handle. Finish with files and sandpaper.
Apply a finish if desired. BLO works well on birchbark.
Click to expand...

Is it 2 parts glue to 1 part water by weight or by volume?
 
It does not matter. Volume is easiest. It isn't a mix ratio like mixing epoxy. Just thin it until it is pretty thin and runny. I don't actually measure, I just add water until it seems right and go with it.
 
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