Birch for a hawk helve? Yes or no?

[Wood Splitter]

Hey guys, just a quick question.

I might be getting a Fort Turner Trapper hawk, but it comes with a 16” helve where as I prefer about a 22” helve. He sells an 18” separately, but it's only 2” longer, and I doubt it would make much difference. I decided to make my own helve the length I want it. The only problem is I have very little wood to choose from.

I have not come across any maple, hickory or ash that is the right size. Even though maple does grow wild around where I live (coastal BC), it is hard to get to. Even if could get to one I would have to cut down a living tree and let it season for approx 1 year.

I have one other option, birch. I have a piece that is the perfect size for a tomahawk helve, it has been seasoned for 15 years, no warping, straight grain and no knots.

I can't remember where I heard it, but someone said to not use birch for a helve. I know that birch rots pretty easily if you leave it wet or on the ground, but I don’t plan to do either.

I am going to use my hawk as an all around tool, I'm not going to throw it.

So I want to know before I invest my time into carving it, would birch make an alright hawk helve?

Thanks for your time,
Splitter

 

[littleknife]

Traditional Russian, Finnish, and some Scandinavian axes used to have birch handles, some contemporary Russian and Finnish axes (e.g. Roselli) and some cheap Chinese hatchets still do have. If I am not mistaken, even Gransfors Bruks makes some limited editions of its smaller axes with birch wood handle (those are mainly sold in Scandinavia and the UK).
Mors Kochanski in his Bushcraft recommends birch wood for making a replacement axe handle in the Northern forest.
Birch wood would not make the best handle for a pick axe or a splitting maul, it should be fine for a non-throwing tomahawk.

While grade A hickory would be a much better choice, a well seasoned, knot free and straight piece of birch would be definitely better than the lower grade hickory found in many hardware store hatchets, axes and hammers.

As with hickory, there are also many species of birch, not all of which have similar mechanical properties. North American yellow birch has excellent mechanical properties.

In Europe hickory is used only in imported or higher grade axes. Typical mass-produced striking tool handle woods are beech, oak and ash. Birch should work as well if not better than any of those.

While the species of wood is important factor in the proper selection of a handle wood, an even more important factor is that the piece should be straight grained, knot-free and properly seasoned. Individual pieces of any species could exhibit mechanical properties which are better (or worse) than the statistical average for this species, since growth (and hence strength) properties depend on soil, geography, climate, pest infestation etc.
Also, many of the data available are for US specimens or specimens available at the time.

Alternatively, you can buy some of the newer 22” Cold Steel replacement hickory tomahawk handles and you can shave them down to fit them in your Fort Turner hawk.

Either way, you will be just fine. Have fun with your Fort Turner hawk. Those are really excellent hawks! :thumbup::thumbup:

 

[M3mphis]

Traditional Russian, Finnish, and some Scandinavian axes used to have birch handles, some contemporary Russian and Finnish axes (e.g. Roselli) and some cheap Chinese hatchets still do have. If I am not mistaken, even Gransfors Bruks makes some limited editions of its smaller axes with birch wood handle (those are mainly sold in Scandinavia and the UK).
Mors Kochanski in his Bushcraft recommends birch wood for making a replacement axe handle in the Northern forest.
Birch wood would not make the best handle for a pick axe or a splitting maul, it should be fine for a non-throwing tomahawk.

While grade A hickory would be a much better choice, a well seasoned, knot free and straight piece of birch would be definitely better than the lower grade hickory found in many hardware store hatchets, axes and hammers.

As with hickory, there are also many species of birch, not all of which have similar mechanical properties. North American yellow birch has excellent mechanical properties.

In Europe hickory is used only in imported or higher grade axes. Typical mass-produced striking tool handle woods are beech, oak and ash. Birch should work as well if not better than any of those.

While the species of wood is important factor in the proper selection of a handle wood, an even more important factor is that the piece should be straight grained, knot-free and properly seasoned. Individual pieces of any species could exhibit mechanical properties which are better (or worse) than the statistical average for this species, since growth (and hence strength) properties depend on soil, geography, climate, pest infestation etc.
Also, many of the data available are for US specimens or specimens available at the time.

Alternatively, you can buy some of the newer 22” Cold Steel replacement hickory tomahawk handles and you can shave them down to fit them in your Fort Turner hawk.

Either way, you will be just fine. Have fun with your Fort Turner hawk. Those are really excellent hawks! :thumbup::thumbup:

What an answer! Way to go the extra mile, littleknife. Thanks. Nothing more to add, other than good luck and post pics!

 

[Wood Splitter]

Traditional Russian, Finnish, and some Scandinavian axes used to have birch handles, some contemporary Russian and Finnish axes (e.g. Roselli) and some cheap Chinese hatchets still do have. If I am not mistaken, even Gransfors Bruks makes some limited editions of its smaller axes with birch wood handle (those are mainly sold in Scandinavia and the UK).
Mors Kochanski in his Bushcraft recommends birch wood for making a replacement axe handle in the Northern forest.
Birch wood would not make the best handle for a pick axe or a splitting maul, it should be fine for a non-throwing tomahawk.

While grade A hickory would be a much better choice, a well seasoned, knot free and straight piece of birch would be definitely better than the lower grade hickory found in many hardware store hatchets, axes and hammers.

As with hickory, there are also many species of birch, not all of which have similar mechanical properties. North American yellow birch has excellent mechanical properties.

In Europe hickory is used only in imported or higher grade axes. Typical mass-produced striking tool handle woods are beech, oak and ash. Birch should work as well if not better than any of those.

While the species of wood is important factor in the proper selection of a handle wood, an even more important factor is that the piece should be straight grained, knot-free and properly seasoned. Individual pieces of any species could exhibit mechanical properties which are better (or worse) than the statistical average for this species, since growth (and hence strength) properties depend on soil, geography, climate, pest infestation etc.
Also, many of the data available are for US specimens or specimens available at the time.

Alternatively, you can buy some of the newer 22” Cold Steel replacement hickory tomahawk handles and you can shave them down to fit them in your Fort Turner hawk.

Either way, you will be just fine. Have fun with your Fort Turner hawk. Those are really excellent hawks! :thumbup::thumbup:

Littleknife, I can't thank you enough for your great answer and help. I will be making a birch helve when I receive my hawk, and I will take plenty of pics and video.

 

[littleknife]

You are welcome!

Wood Splitter, I see that you are in British Columbia. I presume that the birch piece you have is from paper (white) birch, since that is the most common birch species in BC.
I found a relevant info regarding the traditional use of white (paper) birch in the following article:

http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Birch

"It is a tree of the greatest value to the inhabitants of the Mackenzie river district in British North America. Its bark is used for the construction of canoes, and for drinking-cups, dishes and baskets. From the wood, platters, axe-handles, snow-shoe frames, and dog sledges are made, and it is worked into articles of furniture which are susceptible of a good polish. The sap which flows in the spring is drawn off and boiled down to an agreeable spirit, or fermented with a birch-wine of considerable alcoholic strength. The bark is also used as a substitute for paper."

There are some woods which are better suited for logging axe handle than paper birch, but for shorter handles like the one you want it is still useable, especially if you don’t throw your hawk. However, birch is used in Russia (Siberia) even for throwing axe handles:

http://www.efdeportes.com/efd106/modern-games-and-competitions-of-peoples-of-russia.htm

Wood Splitter, I am looking forward to see the finished handle and read/watch your report!

On a side note you might be interested to read about another traditional use of the (European) birch wood:

http://www.laplandica.com/2008/09/14/my-saami-walking-stick…/

 

[Wood Splitter]

You are welcome!

Wood Splitter, I see that you are in British Columbia. I presume that the birch piece you have is from paper (white) birch, since that is the most common birch species in BC.
I found a relevant info regarding the traditional use of white (paper) birch in the following article:

http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Birch

"It is a tree of the greatest value to the inhabitants of the Mackenzie river district in British North America. Its bark is used for the construction of canoes, and for drinking-cups, dishes and baskets. From the wood, platters, axe-handles, snow-shoe frames, and dog sledges are made, and it is worked into articles of furniture which are susceptible of a good polish. The sap which flows in the spring is drawn off and boiled down to an agreeable spirit, or fermented with a birch-wine of considerable alcoholic strength. The bark is also used as a substitute for paper."

There are some woods which are better suited for logging axe handle than paper birch, but for shorter handles like the one you want it is still useable, especially if you don’t throw your hawk. I am looking forward to see the finished handle and read/watch your report!

On a side note you might be interested to read about another traditional use of the (European) birch wood:

http://www.laplandica.com/2008/09/14/my-saami-walking-stick…/

Hi, yes I do live in BC. Silver birch (white or paper birch, all just different names for the same tree) is what grows wild here, and is what I have most access to.

I just placed my order a couple hours ago for a Camp Hawk
I will definitely make a video for all you guys here when I get it.

Thank you for the link about the walking stick. I have been carving away at a piece of red alder for a few days now, that is probably way to wide in diameter for a walking stick. I think I'm just going to scout the woods for a small Silver Birch pretty much exactly the size I want it.

My heritage is Finn, and I have been trying to learn more about traditional Sammi kit and Bushcraft, but incorporating my own style and kit into it (e.g. a tomahawk worn on the belt in my own custom made frog).

The woodland in Finland, especially Lapland, is very very similar to the BC woodland. The only difference being that there are far less (and not as tall) mountains in Finland. There is a lot of flat country, where as here there is far more hills and mountains everywhere you look.

If you are interested in seeing a few of my other videos, you can check out my YouTube channel here: http://www.youtube.com/user/StratoManBasejumper?feature=mhee
That's where I will upload my hawk videos to. I will also pot them here in this sub forum.

Sorry for rambling on,

Thanks again for all that great info
Splitter

 

[littleknife]

Wood Splitter, thanks for the link to your videos. I watched already some them and I like them.:thumbup::thumbup:
I found especially important that you demonstrated a safe position (kneeling) and wore knee pads when you split the wood with your shorter GB axe.:thumbup:
Axes are cool but also dangerous, they need to be used with caution.

I grew up with occasionally using a few full length axes. They all had beech handles, like the axes of pretty much everyone else in the neighborhood. Those beech handles were quite sturdy: those axes were used hard to split the wood people used for heating there. Hickory feels definitely better and it is a stronger wood, but other woods work too, especially if hickory is not available. As I remember, the most frequently encountered wood on the axes, pickaxes, shovels and adzes I saw there was beech, and oak was pretty prevalent on hammers. Every few years a tool would be rehandled, mostly because people did not treat the handles and they repeatedly dried out and shrunk and/or split. Beech has a notoriously large movement in service (just think about the beech handled Opinels which swell when wet). On the other hand it has a wonderful feel, and unlike hickory, does not raise splinters so easily.
Of course I am talking about European beech (Fagus sylvatica), and now, when I had the chance to use hickory handled axes and hammers, I too am convinced that hickory is a much better, superior wood for a striking tool handle.

Walking sticks are one of my favorite subjects. I agree, that you should get a silver birch stick (it will shrink when dries), but if I were you I would also keep the alder one. Many people swear by the alder sticks, they are light. Since you are in Canada, you may also try to add tamarack and saskatoon to the collection. Now those, especially saskatoon are really excellent walking sticks! If you can keep the underbark on the saskatoon, you will have not only a very strong, but also a really nice looking stick too.
Remember, one can never have enough walking sticks.

On a side note, as a child I made my first walking sticks from beech saplings. Now my favorite ones are made of hickory and flowering dogwood.

 

[Humppa]

Well, I can tell you about the "german" birches. They are pretty fast growing and welcome as a pioneer plant inside new trees, for protecting the ground of being washed away. But they are too fast grown. So the wood is pretty soft and full of branchets. I would never use it for a haft. Much to soft.

In other regions of the world; Scandinavia, Russia or Northern America it might be other. But here in Germany; Birch is just used for firewood. Sometimes for furniture. But a haft would break pretty fast.

I make my hafts of ashwood. Quiet nice and hard wood. That´s what I would recommend.

I made a haft of an old piece of oak wood. I really liked it, until it broke when I threw my Frontier Hawk.

Kind regards

 

[Wood Splitter]

Wood Splitter, thanks for the link to your videos. I watched already some them and I like them.:thumbup::thumbup:
I found especially important that you demonstrated a safe position (kneeling) and wore knee pads when you split the wood with your shorter GB axe.:thumbup:
Axes are cool but also dangerous, they need to be used with caution.

I grew up with occasionally using a few full length axes. They all had beech handles, like the axes of pretty much everyone else in the neighborhood. Those beech handles were quite sturdy: those axes were used hard to split the wood people used for heating there. Hickory feels definitely better and it s a stronger wood, but other woods work too, especially if hickory is not available. As I remember, the most frequently encountered wood on the axes, pickaxes, shovels and adzes I saw there was beech, and oak was pretty prevalent on hammers. Every few years a tool would be rehandled, mostly because people did not treat the handles and they repeatedly dried out and shrunk and/or split. Beech has a notoriously large movement in service (just think about the beech handled Opinels which swell when wet). On the other hand it has a wonderful feel, and unlike hickory, does not raise splinters so easily.
Of course I am talking about European beech (Fagus sylvatica), and now, when I had the chance to use hickory handled axes and hammers, I too am convinced that hickory is a much better, superior wood for a striking tool handle.

Walking sticks are one of my favorite subjects. I agree, that you should get a silver birch stick (it will shrink when dries), but if I were you I would also keep the alder one. Many people swear by the alder sticks, they are light. Since you are in Canada, you may also try to add tamarack and saskatoon to the collection. Now those, especially saskatoon are really excellent walking sticks! If you can keep the underbark on the saskatoon, you will have not only a very strong, but also a really nice looking stick too.
Remember, one can never have enough walking sticks.

Thanks very much for the kind words I am going to keep the alder one. It has been seasoning for over a year and when I went to "de-bark it", it dulled my Gransfors Scandi FA! That is some hard wood when dried properly.

When me and my family where down at the river last summer, I was scouting around trying to find some dead standing of about 4" to 5" diameter for our cooking fire. I was not able to find anything as anything that was dead, anything I did find was blown over (and rotten) by the constant wind that comes off of such a large river. My mom and brother (I am 15 in case anyone is wondering), brought back some nice hard drift wood that looks as if it had died by the side of the river, but never got wet. It was a very hard wood. It was approx 3" diameter, and it still had its roots connected as if it was pulled from the ground.
I cut two 12" pieces off it, split it and burned it. I was amazed at how hot that wood burned. I really wanted to find out what type of wood it was, and because there was no bark, and no twigs (no knots even) and because it had turned that "drift wood brown", the only thing to do was look at the freshly cut grain pattern.

"This is an 80 year old tamarack!" I felt almost sick as I had just cut 2' off the top of it, and reduced what I had to a measly 5'.

 

[Wood Splitter]

Well, I can tell you about the "german" birches. They are pretty fast growing and welcome as a pioneer plant inside new trees, for protecting the ground of being washed away. But they are too fast grown. So the wood is pretty soft and full of branchets. I would never use it for a haft. Much to soft.

In other regions of the world; Scandinavia, Russia or Northern America it might be other. But here in Germany; Birch is just used for firewood. Sometimes for furniture. But a haft would break pretty fast.

I make my hafts of ashwood. Quiet nice and hard wood. That´s what I would recommend.

I made a haft of an old piece of oak wood. I really liked it, until it broke when I threw my Frontier Hawk.

Kind regards

Thank you for that info The birch we have here in BC Canada is silver birch, a hard wood.

 

[Humppa]

Alright, I think you can use it for a nice haft.

This haft is of ashwood, I made my self (like all of mine)

Kind regards
Andi

 

[Wood Splitter]

WOW! Very nice work. I love that axe, I believe you posted an entire thread about it a while ago didn't you?

 

[Humppa]

Yes, here it is!

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/934595-My-little-collection!

I´m glad you like my hobby work

Kind regards
Andi

 

[scruffuk]

Brilliant thread folks.

Some really great information and advice.

Thanks all!

I shall look forward to seeing more...and shall be tracking a birch walking stick down soon, to compliment my Holly (sun) stick.

scruff

 

[littleknife]

"This is an 80 year old tamarack!" I felt almost sick as I had just cut 2' off the top of it, and reduced what I had to a measly 5'.

Wood Splitter, most of the longest walking staves sold in the US are 55-58” long. Your 60” piece of tamarack, if you still have it, should be more than sufficient to make a good walking stick.

Alder, while it is quite soft wood, can have a hard surface when seasoned. Also, the bark of many softer woods is quite hard. That is why, when making a walking stick even from some rough barked tree saplings (e.g. hickory or oak), it is worth to keep at least the smooth underbark, if it is still attached to the wood after drying.

Humppa, you did a very nice work making that handle. :thumbup::thumbup:
I agree that the European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) is probably the best traditional handle wood available in Europe. Among the North American ash species white ash (Fraxinus americana) is considered to be the best for handles (usually shovel, rake and cultivator handles), but it is usually somewhat weaker than the European ash. Fortunately, there are a few hickory species which provide a truly excellent wood for striking tool handles.

The only ash species I know of in British Columbia is the Oregon Ash (Fraxinus latifolia) in the South-Western part of BC.

Humppa, may I ask what type of wood is the stick in the left corner of the pic?

 

[Wood Splitter]

Wood Splitter, most of the longest walking staves sold in the US are 55-58” long. Your 60” piece of tamarack, if you still have it, should be more than sufficient to make a good walking stick.

Alder, while it is quite soft wood, can have a hard surface when seasoned. Also, the bark of many softer woods is quite hard. That is why, when making a walking stick even from some rough barked tree saplings (e.g. hickory or oak), it is worth to keep at least the smooth underbark, if it is still attached to the wood after drying.

Humppa, you did a very nice work making that handle. :thumbup::thumbup:
I agree that the European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) is probably the best traditional handle wood available in Europe. Among the North American ash species white ash (Fraxinus americana) is considered to be the best for handles (usually shovel, rake and cultivator handles), but it is usually somewhat weaker than the European ash. Fortunately, there are a few hickory species which provide a truly excellent wood for striking tool handles.

The only ash species I know of in British Columbia is the Oregon Ash (Fraxinus latifolia) in the South-Western part of BC.

Humppa, may I ask what type of wood is the stick in the left corner of the pic?

Yes, I still have it and I am going to make a walking stick out of it. I really still want to make one as tall as I am though (6'). I think I am just going to bide my time and look for the perfect piece of silver birch for the job.

 

[Square_peg]

I prefer a taller walking stick with a wrist loop that supports the hand at approximately breast height. I feels more natural to me to have a higher grip on a walking stick.

If you can find one a long straight piece of fruitwood makes a nice walking stick.