Birds eye view of knife steel

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Jan 20, 2013
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I have got to admit I have been bitten by the knife bug recently. I now have 9 knives...like I need 9....lol...I'm in good company here, so I can say that. But I have noticed that I have spent quite a bit of money on these knives. So I wanted to take a step back and look at the knives...a bird eye view if you will, of what I am actually holding in my hand.

It's...well...its a tool used to cut things. Ok, so what makes one knife that cuts things cost 4x or 5x more than another knife that cuts things?

To give some background, I started with Case knives, well not really, my first knife was a Strider GB (tanto). BFK I bought because I had to have the biggest badest knife around. Anyway, I had it for years and found it so big that I stopped carrying it. Not practical for me. 10 years later, I found Case pocket knives and began purchasing them. Big difference, I know, but I think its part of the getting old process...lol. I found that that the case knives where incredibley sharp...sharper than my $400 Strider. I got into the whole paper cutting thing but I noticed the blade would dull from paper cutting sharp, down to rub your thumb across the blade sharp, in surprisingly few paper cuts. So I began purchasing high dollar knives with fancy steels to get better edge retention....and found that I really can't tell that much difference from my laymans perspective. Yeah they hold the edge for 5 or 10 more cuts but big whoopty doo....lol...is it worth paying 4x more money for the knife? I am kind of disappointed in the amount of money I have spent on a blade that I will have to sharpen almost as quickly as I would have to sharpen the cheaper Case knife. Can someone get me back in line here? Is there a steel out there that is affordable, can get a super sharp edge really easily and quickly, will not rust and won't roll or chip easily? I really am not feeling like paying a bunch of money for this high end steel when the end product is still the same...you have to resharpen it, but its a major pain in the butt!!
 
When you really look into it, most of the cost isn't oriented around the steel quality or selection.
I own multiple case knives that cut well, sharpen easily, and get dull just as easily and quickly, I also own multiple high end customs that hold an edge for what seems like forever, so I don't think you are giving that comparison enough margin. Most of the cost though, goes into things like handle material, smooth opening and closing, quality control, etc.
 
I know there are alot of things that go into the price of a knife...but the examples you presented are pretty much expected....but not always delivered. Case in point?....my Buck Vantage Pro. Fit and finish was not what I expected for the money...but the blade steel is high end and so was the handle material. I paid some decent coin for that knife to get the S30V Bos heat treat...and I am left with this feeling of wow...this blade dulled out rather quickly for the money I paid. I guess you pay 4 or 5 times more you expect 4 or 5 times more edge retention.

I guess the purpose of this thread was baiting for steel suggestions that fit my criteria.....
 
Paper is full of nasty carbides that wreak havoc on steel. Depending on what type/weight paper you are cutting, you may be asking more of your steel than you realize.

Assuming you are cutting a light weight paper like newsprint, magazine, or tissue paper (if you are really good), Here are some other points to consider:

• Knife steel and heat treat are important factors in how well a blade cuts, but so is the edge geometry and finish. Ankerson has quite a few, extensive threads on this topic.

• It is also possible that you are getting a wire edge on your blade. A quality knife, Case, Buck, or Strider, shouldn't dull out after a few paper cuts if properly sharpened.

• There are a lot of resources on this forum to learn about how to improve and verify your sharpening technique, they are worth a look.

• Last resort, send a knife/knives out to RichardJ or one of the many other excellent sharpeners on the forums. They will send you back a blade that will cut paper for days.

I really hope this helps you reach the edge you are dreaming of.
 
Is there a steel out there that is affordable, can get a super sharp edge really easily and quickly, will not rust and won't roll or chip easily?

Howdy.
Sounds like what you really want is a stainless alloy which can be run at a reasonably high Rockwell hardness (58-60), but which does not contain carbides. Such alloys are easy to sharpen, get scary sharp, and hold an edge fairly well, even though they don't have the wear resistance of alloys with carbides.

AUS8 falls into that line. Easy to sharpen. Takes a keen edge. Holds that edge reasonably well (significantly better than Case Tru-Sharp. I know. I've tested them.) AUS8 is pretty rust resistant. The Chinese alloys 8Cr14MoV and 8Cr13MoV are pretty close in composition to AUS8 and have similar performance.

Sandvik 14C28N and Sandvik 13C26 will both get scary sharp with little work and they hold an edge well.

BTW, you didn't say whether you were looking for a traditional style or a modern one-hand opener. You also didn't say what kind of budget you were considering.

AG Russel (a BF dealer member) has some traditional models that he designed, and which are made for him in China with 8Cr13MoV blade steel. Fit and finish is said to be excellent. He also has some with Sandvik 12C27. Haven't tested that alloy myself, but I still know it will outperform Case Tru-Sharp. (Case Tru-Sharp is 420HC, but they run it pretty soft at about 55HRC.)

If you wanted a modern one-hander, I'd look at the Kershaw line. They have a lot of blades with the Sandvik alloys I mentioned. There are also a number of companies who sell one-hander knives with AUS8.
 
I'm vouching for Spyderco or byrd in 8Cr13MoV. They run it around 59-60 HRC according to some forumite here.

Doesn't cost a bomb (25-40$ depending on models), and it fits Frank's description above. That's if you don't mind the non tradiional style.
 
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