BK 15 etch, strip.

keroscene

keroscene

Joined
Nov 9, 2013
Messages
996
I have no idea if this will help anyone or if there's a better way to do this and I'm not aware of it. I wanted to strip my BK15, but not lose the company logo and model that's laser etched. So, I started reading up on these forums and elsewhere and I found a few decent ideas and suggestions, so I decided to use PCB etchant. Main reason is, its really easy to find (radio shack), not expensive and seems to do a pretty good job. I photographed the process (though its pretty easy to do) to show how it progressed. NOTE: every application of PCB was left on for 2 hrs, then rinsed off w/ water, dried w/ a towel then repeat.


Pretty sure everyone knows what the laser etched knife looks like, but here's a shot before I started
5B820095-D94C-46E7-9923-C7D3F890A567.jpg


First step: simply cover the logo/model w/ PCB. I used a q-tip. I've seen others use a syringe. Its whatever you prefer.
CF4DD569-7261-4E80-9932-3749F5BCE0D9.jpg


This is what it looked like after 2 hrs. Not much difference
55E895DD-5EC0-4B18-8E0D-E08A90CDEFFC.jpg


After 2 more hours you can start to see the etchant digging a little deeper.
EAB92CF3-F126-4AD2-A0C4-14B30C7E845F.jpg

rinsed and dried off again then 2 more hours passed.....now we're where I want to be.
F9C9931E-01CF-4EB8-A187-8BA0A8C93A8D.jpg


Time to remove the black w/ some good 'ol Tuff Strip. I let this set for about 30 mins.
09B1F653-6A67-4FD8-B5E0-D5ECDB9F7541.jpg


After stripping, I hit it with 1500 grit sandpaper then stepped to 2000 grit. Here's the final product.....
E05761C9-A2AF-44C2-A456-8B926BEDE4DB.jpg


I know this post didn't reinvent the wheel for anyone, but after going through this process, I will say that I would've been better off doing a couple more applications of PCB. It did exactly what I wanted, which was engraving the logo/model into the blade so that sanding or any other modding wouldn't remove them. I simply would've liked to see it go into the steel a little more, that's all.

Next, I will blue the logo/model and then re-sand w/ 2000 grit to ensure the blue is only in the lettering and numbering. I'm sure that will make it stand out a little more.

Thanks for any recommendations and/or comments!

-Dan
 
Your right, nothing new here. But, thank you for posting this. It is always great to see the evolution of a person's knife to better suit their needs or wants.

Good job. More pictures after the bluing, ok?

Jeremy
 
Nice work man. I have some pcb etchant. Have plans for it, but haven't executed it yet.
 
dresnor said:
Your right, nothing new here. But, thank you for posting this. It is always great to see the evolution of a person's knife to better suit their needs or wants.

Good job. More pictures after the bluing, ok?

Jeremy
Click to expand...

Will definitely update this thread after bluing. I'm the same way, always love to see what people do with their blades. Doesn't matter if I like it or not, I still find it very interesting.

The Warrior said:
Nice work man. I have some pcb etchant. Have plans for it, but haven't executed it yet.
Click to expand...

Thanks bro. I've done a lot w/ pcb, just not this particular task. It's pretty cool stuff, but can be very messy if your not careful. Found that one out the hard way. Will be very interested to see what you do with it when you decide to use it.
 
Might want to start again with some lower grit papers before working your way up to the 1500....I know everyone's gotta learn for themselves, but starting at 1500 mostly just takes the point off the ridges left by the factory grind, and rust still has a place to gain a foothold. It was suggested to me by one of the 'head makers that even starting at 150 and working up to at least 600 will even out the steel surface a lot better and give the corrosion less micro-surfaces to get started. It looks good, tho. If there is a next time, low voltage AC and some saltwater will blacken the etching pretty well.....but the coating has to stay on through the process.
 
granitestateofmind said:
Might want to start again with some lower grit papers before working your way up to the 1500....I know everyone's gotta learn for themselves, but starting at 1500 mostly just takes the point off the ridges left by the factory grind, and rust still has a place to gain a foothold. It was suggested to me by one of the 'head makers that even starting at 150 and working up to at least 600 will even out the steel surface a lot better and give the corrosion less micro-surfaces to get started. It looks good, tho. If there is a next time, low voltage AC and some saltwater will blacken the etching pretty well.....but the coating has to stay on through the process.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your advice. I did that with my 9.....started with 150 (or may have been 220) and worked my way all the way up to 5000. Turned out really nice. However, I didn't even realize I was giving rust little-to-nothing to grab on to. Good to know.

As far as voltage etching goes, I have done that in the past, and, though it turned out pretty nice, the depth wasn't perfectly even across the board. Probably wouldn't have been an issue on this project though due to small size of project. Will definitely try it next time.
 
I simply would've liked to see it go into the steel a little more, that's all.
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The only thing I do differently when I use that etchant - I dab it on with a cotton swab; then periodically rub/scrub the logo with the swab and add a little fresh etchant. (After 2 hrs or so - clean, dry, repeat x 3 or 4 cycles)
 
hhmoore said:
The only thing I do differently when I use that etchant - I dab it on with a cotton swab; then periodically rub/scrub the logo with the swab and add a little fresh etchant. (After 2 hrs or so - clean, dry, repeat x 3 or 4 cycles)
Click to expand...

That's what I did except the periodic rub/scrub. I'll try that on my next one. Thank you!
 
noneck180 said:
whats is PCB..
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Printed Circuit Board. It's intended use is to etch the copper off of copper clad board to create the circuit traces. An etch resist coating is put on the areas you want to keep and the etchant eats away the rest. The actual chemical name is ferric chloride.
 
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