BK-16 Kydex Sheath Liner

[tjswarbrick]

Like most I've read about, my FPR BK-16 rattles a bit in the factory BK-15 liner that came in the sheath.
I trimmed mine to length, heated it up and wrapped it in gorilla (duct) tape. It's better, but still a bit loose. And I can feel it loosen up each time I use it.

Has anyone tried to bend some kydex to make a custom-fit liner for the BK16 in the factory sheath slot?
Is .060 kydex likely to even fit?
Any special tips or tricks?
If there's a thread on this anywhere, I couldn't find it - feel free to point me there.
I have 1 (partially used) sheet of kydex - so I only have enough for 1 failed attempt, and I've never molded pants before.
Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

- Tom

 

[DerekH]

Kydex is pretty forgiving. If you mess up, or it doesn't come out just right, throw it back in the oven, it will flatten out to it's original shape and you can try again. I say go for it.

 

[CShepherd]

I've read of some heating and flattening the factory liner with good success. I haven't tried it yet on mine but will be one of the next modifications I do to mine when I have the chance.

As for Kydex, it should work great. The only problem I foresee (I've worked with kydex quite a bit) is if you do it in the pouch or taco style (think folded like a soft taco) then which side to you put the open side on. I don't think there is enough room in the sheath for the usual rivets. Might have to devise a lower profile way to fasten it. As mentioned, Kydex is some very forgiving material to work with. Just don't overheat it. I only heat mine up to 300 degrees when working with it and it's fine.

Charlie

 

[The Warrior]

I only heat mine up to 300 degrees when working with it and it's fine.

Charlie

Is that pretty much the standard heat?

 

[tjswarbrick]

Thanks guys. You've given me the resolve to try it. Maybe this weekend, maybe the next.
I heated the factory liner, but didn't do anything special to flatten it. From what I read, I guess I thought it was supposed to shrink on its own. Maybe I'll try that again, too.
As far as the kydex, I'm not sure what I'll secure the end with - I was thinking 1 rivet down at the bottom, and maybe 1 chicago screw or some paracord at the top. It shouldn't need much, I hope, since it's going to live inside the stock sheath.
Is 300 okay for Kydex? I thought I read it's best around 180, and okay up to 250 or so, but I could be mistaken. Tested the oven last night - set to 170, 1 thermometer read 175; the other, 145. I think I need a better thermometer.

 

[C_Tanner]

The only problem I see is for proper retention, th kydex is going to have to be wider that the factory sleeve just to accomodate the rivets....meaning it probably wont fit in the nylon.

When I had mine, I just hit it with the heat gun, got it pliable, and clamped it with either clamps that came in my toolbox, or standard binder clips. Wait for it to cool off on it's own. Works just fine.

 

[CShepherd]

Is that pretty much the standard heat?

I've seen everything from 250 to 350. Somwhere I read a warning about heating Kydex up to 350 or higher and with it releasing toxic gasses so I stuck with the 300 mark. It's always worked well.

Charles

 

[oXide]

So I take it an oven set to 250-300 should get it pliable and then I can form fit it to my knife the same way one would with Kydex? I'm too cheap to buy Kydex right now, gonna look into bending after the summer though.

 

[thrillbilly]

Im not sure a kydex liner is feasible, but it could be possible.

I heat kydex to about ~325