BK15 sharpining question

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Jan 3, 2010
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Hey all,
I have a question to get some opinions on sharpening my 15. I use a Smiths sharpening system and am having trouble with the first couple of inches on the tip of the knife. I cant seem to get it as sharp as the rest of the knife. I think it is because I try and use one stroke for the full length of the blade. Is it ok to focus on just that one part or will it cause issues. I have an Arkansas tri-stone as well, but I really don't have free hand skills, which I why I use the Smiths (which has the metal rods that connect to the stone and you clamp the guide to the spine of the blade and us a 20 or 25 degree guide hole for the metal rod).
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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You just need to better your technique. All in one swipe should be good for the fifteen. Make sure your pressure is even throughout your movement. I've only used a system like that once, and didn't like it. I only use bench stones now free handed. Much more natural. Look up vids on YouTube on how to use your system better.
 
Mark the edge with a sharpy. Then run a few strokes and see where your stone is cutting. Ajust if needed. Once the sharpy is gone you found the angle.
 
Hey all,
I have a question to get some opinions on sharpening my 15. I use a Smiths sharpening system and am having trouble with the first couple of inches on the tip of the knife. I cant seem to get it as sharp as the rest of the knife. I think it is because I try and use one stroke for the full length of the blade. Is it ok to focus on just that one part or will it cause issues. I have an Arkansas tri-stone as well, but I really don't have free hand skills, which I why I use the Smiths (which has the metal rods that connect to the stone and you clamp the guide to the spine of the blade and us a 20 or 25 degree guide hole for the metal rod).
Any advice would be appreciated.

You don't need to use one stroke for the full length of the blade. Do it like you are using a file on the blade. To do a nice tip you need to put the clamp of the Smiths guide closer to the tip. If you put the guide in the middle of the blade the tip will have a flatter angle. You are probably not hitting the apex on the tip with the flatter angle. Clamping closer to the tip will give you a steeper angle on the tip and flatter angle towards the hilt. If you cannot get to the hilt end of the edge because of the grips you can take them off before sharpening.
 
You don't need to use one stroke for the full length of the blade. Do it like you are using a file on the blade. To do a nice tip you need to put the clamp of the Smiths guide closer to the tip. If you put the guide in the middle of the blade the tip will have a flatter angle. You are probably not hitting the apex on the tip with the flatter angle. Clamping closer to the tip will give you a steeper angle on the tip and flatter angle towards the hilt. If you cannot get to the hilt end of the edge because of the grips you can take them off before sharpening.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. it was kind of what I was thinking but wasn't sure if doing the blade in two parts would work.
 
The tip and the curve leading up to it is a common hurdle in sharpening. The real trouble is keeping the angle consistent to properly apex the edge - whether you freehand or use a guided system, it's going to call for some adaptation. I second the sharpie technique since it will help you visualize and identify what you're actually doing.
 
A Sharpie mark on the edge is almost required for someone of my comparatively minimal skill at sharpening.
 
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