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BK15 Tip Strength

cz9r

cz9r

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
297
Checked out photos of the BK15.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...prise-in-the-mail-I-can-t-put-this-thing-down!!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Camp-Shorty-quot-Trailing-Point-quot-Tweener
Thanks, Captain Airyca and Bladite.

Think I'm gonna go w the 15 instead of the 17 I'd planned on. Seems it might chop better - good knife to throw in my bag on backpacking trips to cut wood and for KP. Smaller and more packable than a machete but easier to chop w (than the 15 or 17) because of the longer blade.

By design, I'm sure the 16's drop point tip is stronger. My question is: How prone do u think the 15 would be to a broken tip? Not planning on abusing it and sticking it into everything in my path; still I don't want it breaking on me at some pt in the future under reasonable but hard use.

I like the look of the 17 best, just feel the longer blade of the 15 would be better for my purpose of having a camp knife that chops OK but can also pierce. It's lighter than a CS Bushman Bowie and has better ergonomics, another knife I'd otherwise consider taking when I go backpacking.

BTW anyone know why the specs of the 15 have it listed as weighing less than the shorter 16 and 17? Also, all tweeners use the same-sized handle, correct?

Just wondering and thanks :)
 
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The specs are of the first production models, etc... and shouldn't be considered final until Bladite gets his hands on the actual production models. As far as the difference though, that trailing point blade has a vastly different cross-section than the others. Less mass overall, despite having a longer blade. The blade is almost a full flat, and then you have a swedge that runs full length as well. Only point you hit full thickness is the ricasso and that line between the primary grind and the rear swedge at the spine. Or at least that is what I am betting on. Could be completely wrong.
 
If you're planning on doing a bunch of chopping I don't know if I'd choose the 15 as your end all be all...Maybe the 15 and a Machax haha.
 
The BK-15 is just a smaller BK-5. I've pried joints apart with my BK-5 with no problems.

Just be realistic though; the blade design of the 5 and 15 is meant for slicing and slashing, not for prying apart padlocks.
 
As soon as me and Ethan get some of the production run in, I'll tell you EXACTLY how strong it is.

Getting close now, shouldn't be too long.

I can't wait, we're gonna test the hell out of these thing as soon as we get some. :D

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
I can't wait, we're gonna test the hell out of these thing as soon as we get some. :D
Click to expand...

Yeah yeah GET SOME
beavis.gif
 
If you somehow break hardened 1095 CV with Ka-Bar's heat treat, I need to know how so I know how not to use them, even if it is the tip of a trailing point tweener, I doubt it'll break under anything less than what is considered abuse for a howitzer....
 
RogueBowie said:
If you're planning on doing a bunch of chopping I don't know if I'd choose the 15 as your end all be all...Maybe the 15 and a Machax haha.
Click to expand...

I think he was interested in using the knife for backpacking trips in which case weight is a significant concern. It might be a case of carry the BK15 or don't carry anything.

I have watched test videos of other knives where they would stab it into a 2x4 as hard as they can and then bend the knife over until it breaks out the wood (and not the point). They would keep doing this until they dug a hole completely through the 2x4. I watched one of these tests of the CS SRK and it survived the test with only breaking off the very tip of the blade. I also watched them stab heavy sheet metal repeatedly with various knives and only occasionally break off a point. For normal hard use I don't think tip strength of the BK would be a concern. And I'm not sure what if any stainless steel could achieve the same performance.
 
chopping? seriously? good luck wit that :) it's not a machete. it's NOT a chopper. imnsho.

hacking and slashing. sure. it's a fighter. it's a filet knife. it's a damn fine steak knife :) it will do many camp and other chores just fine.

think: big mora. this is a THIN knife. it's a cutter. it's not a BK2 or a BK4 or a BK9 or even a BK5. it's a medium sized knife. very sturdy though.

you could do light batoning with it too. small kindling all day. if you attempt to baton anything too large, or too insane, or too tough, well, it MIGHT just break. abuse imho. survival? in a pinch. everyday? up to you. it's not a BK2. it's not designed to be a tank.

right tool, for the right job.
 
I'll be using mine the same way its ancestors were used in the 18th century: cutting meat and vegetables, skinning, some carving, the usual frontier type stuff. My tomahawk is for chopping and smiting.
 
Bladite said:
chopping? seriously? good luck wit that :) it's not a machete. it's NOT a chopper. imnsho.

hacking and slashing. sure. it's a fighter. it's a filet knife. it's a damn fine steak knife :) it will do many camp and other chores just fine.

think: big mora. this is a THIN knife. it's a cutter. it's not a BK2 or a BK4 or a BK9 or even a BK5. it's a medium sized knife. very sturdy though.

you could do light batoning with it too. small kindling all day. if you attempt to baton anything too large, or too insane, or too tough, well, it MIGHT just break. abuse imho. survival? in a pinch. everyday? up to you. it's not a BK2. it's not designed to be a tank.

right tool, for the right job.
Click to expand...

^^^---Yup, this !
 
Thanks all yal who posted.

DerekH said:
that trailing point blade has a vastly different cross-section than the others. Less mass overall, despite having a longer blade. The blade is almost a full flat, and then you have a swedge that runs full length as well. Only point you hit full thickness is the ricasso and that line between the primary grind and the rear swedge at the spine. Or at least that is what I am betting on. Could be completely wrong.
Click to expand...

DerekH, Good to know. Didn't know the BK15 was thinner than the 16 and 17. Also looked up ricasso and have new vocab word :)

Moosez45 said:
As soon as me and Ethan get some of the production run in, I'll tell you EXACTLY how strong it is.

Getting close now, shouldn't be too long.

I can't wait, we're gonna test the hell out of these thing as soon as we get some. :D
Click to expand...

I can't wait, either. Appreciate your hard work (and play) :) I'm new to the forums and didn't know you and Ethan work together. Thanks for sharing your passion.

oXide said:
If you somehow break hardened 1095 CV with Ka-Bar's heat treat, I need to know how so I know how not to use them, even if it is the tip of a trailing point tweener, I doubt it'll break under anything less than what is considered abuse for a howitzer....
Click to expand...

Will do.

bdmicarta said:
I think he was interested in using the knife for backpacking trips in which case weight is a significant concern. It might be a case of carry the BK15 or don't carry anything.

I have watched test videos of other knives where they would stab it into a 2x4 as hard as they can and then bend the knife over until it breaks out the wood (and not the point). They would keep doing this until they dug a hole completely through the 2x4. I watched one of these tests of the CS SRK and it survived the test with only breaking off the very tip of the blade. I also watched them stab heavy sheet metal repeatedly with various knives and only occasionally break off a point. For normal hard use I don't think tip strength of the BK would be a concern. And I'm not sure what if any stainless steel could achieve the same performance.
Click to expand...

It is carry a BK15 or carry nothing (other than my SAK). Also saw vids like what you described. Won't be doing that to my knife and also think it'll hold up to my use. I'm lookn for the lightest, smallest knife that doesn't make me work so hard to get firewood and is also easy to cook w. Know an Eskabar, ESEE 3, or Nimcub 2 would do fine, but want a longer blade. I know thicker blades are better for bushcraft, thinner for KP; I guess I'm trying to find a blend of both that I could stab w too, if I had to.

Bladite said:
it's not a machete. it's NOT a chopper. imnsho.

hacking and slashing. sure. it's a fighter. it's a filet knife. it's a damn fine steak knife :) it will do many camp and other chores just fine.

think: big mora. this is a THIN knife. it's a cutter. it's not a BK2 or a BK4 or a BK9 or even a BK5. it's a medium sized knife. very sturdy though.

you could do light batoning with it too. small kindling all day. if you attempt to baton anything too large, or too insane, or too tough, well, it MIGHT just break. abuse imho. survival? in a pinch. everyday? up to you. it's not a BK2. it's not designed to be a tank.

right tool, for the right job.
Click to expand...

Great description. Not gonna try to baton monster logs, but I do want to be able to break down split firewood if needed. I shouldn't have said I'm looking for a blade that chops OK - you're right it's just not the tool for that.

Wolf_1989 said:
I'll be using mine the same way its ancestors were used in the 18th century: cutting meat and vegetables, skinning, some carving, the usual frontier type stuff. My tomahawk is for chopping and smiting.
Click to expand...

Me, too - mostly w game, cooking, not gonna try to use it as a machete or axe.

Anyone know if the BK15 handle size is the same as the 16 and 17?
 
I'm not too worried about tip strenght on the BK-15. When Tomar's finally gets them in stock and I get to order one, I plan to have it ride on my stateside FLC as a light utility knife to replace my SOG Seal Pup. If I need serious tip strength, Ill swap to my patrol bag knife, the BK-7
 
I don't think any of the tweeners are choppers and if your first decision was for the 17 then I think that is the right knife for you.

I agree with you, the 17 is the nicest looking of the bunch!
 
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