BK24 Pitting

I

iBeef

Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
14
Hi guys,


I just want to start by saying I love Becker blades, had my BK7 since early this year and I can't fault it brilliant value for the money!


I recently purchased a BK24 as a neck knife to accompany my BK7, I haven't really used it as I was waiting to have some spare cash to get a custom sheath made after reading a lot on the glass filled nylon sheath dulling the edges of Becker knives. I did however get it out the other day to just have a look at and take some photos and noticed I have some pitting where the handle transitions into the blade.


My question is, will this affect the durability of the knife seeing as it is in a crucial area? Just don't want it to break on me that's all.


Any advice and knowledge on the subject would
Be appreciated, if feels deep and where it is I feel sanding it out would ruin the look of the knife. Sorry for the poor pictures and sorry if this is a stupid question I'm new to knife scene.



 
From the description, I was expecting to see massive pits... they're small potatos and won't effect the knife or performance at all.
 
SideTracked said:
From the description, I was expecting to see massive pits... they're small potatos and won't effect the knife or performance at all.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, it's just because its how it came out of the box. Just wanted to make sure before I start using it. Any advice on how to protect them from getting any bigger?
 
D2 steel (BK24), as well as 1095 (most other beckers) are not stainless. You should be cleaning and protecting them. I use mineral oil on all my knives. It cleans, protects and is food safe. You can get a big bottle of mineral oil at the drug store for $7.00. Pretty much any oil will do. I have a dirty, oily rag I keep in a ziplock bag. The mineral oil and rag will get the red rust cleaned off. You will still see dark spots where the rust was this is patina.
 
yep, wipe it down, it's fine.
I like Ballistol, which is a light mineral oil with non-toxic additives that allow it to emulsify with water instead of floating away on top.
 
daizee said:
yep, wipe it down, it's fine.
I like Ballistol, which is a light mineral oil with non-toxic additives that allow it to emulsify with water instead of floating away on top.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly. Ballistol is great stuff and smells good too.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to ruin the knife before I even started using it. I can't wait to get some Izula handles and a kydex sheath and really start using it. I can see me spending a lot of time in this section of the forum!!!
 
With pits that size on the blade only thing left to do is enjoy it and beat the crap out of it! :)



1g78.jpg
 
Hey iBeef.....

The advice you already have gotten is golden...... I use a lot of mineral oil, for knives, guns, surface shield on machines, etc...Hard to beat and NO odor......

Ethan
 
i'd try some steel wool on the "pits"... start with a light grade. put some oil on it.

or try a scotch bright pad - lightly

the sheath did not cause those

your sheath should be the newest generation made of plastic, no glass, so should not dull the knife anyway

as for rust, mine lives in the kitchen, and i cut MEAT and tasty BACON all the time with it. no rust. no patina. it's PRACTICALLY stainless, even if technically it will discolor.

if have some 440 Remora, i used to cut up and open chlorine bags. after a summer of not cleaning it, there's some discoloration. will probably wipe or polish off.
 
Thank you for all the replies.

Ethan Becker said:
Hey iBeef.....

The advice you already have gotten is golden...... I use a lot of mineral oil, for knives, guns, surface shield on machines, etc...Hard to beat and NO odor......

Ethan
Click to expand...

Thank you, I shall be buying some ASAP to prevent further corrosion.

i'd try some steel wool on the "pits"... start with a light grade. put some oil on it.

or try a scotch bright pad - lightly

the sheath did not cause those

your sheath should be the newest generation made of plastic, no glass, so should not dull the knife anyway

as for rust, mine lives in the kitchen, and i cut MEAT and tasty BACON all the time with it. no rust. no patina. it's PRACTICALLY stainless, even if technically it will discolor.

if have some 440 Remora, i used to cut up and open chlorine bags. after a summer of not cleaning it, there's some discoloration. will probably wipe or polish off.
Click to expand...

I will try the wire wool and see what happens, thanks. The sheath doesn't seem to dull it as much as I have seen on the internet, it did however lose its shaving sharp ability after a few draws though so a kydex is on the cards. Doesn't matter though like many people have said you pay for the knife, not the sheath!
 
iBeef said:
Looks like I made a good choice! Did you keep the original 15 degree edge on your bk24?
Click to expand...

No. I prefer a "stouter" edge on my knives. I edged it at 25 degrees.

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
No. I prefer a "stouter" edge on my knives. I edged it at 25 degrees.

Moose
Click to expand...

Did you have any problems with chipping etc? I've read a lot about D2 potentially chipping at too steep of an angle. I've been contemplating a 20 degree angle.
 
No chipping.

I wouldn't worry to much about it. The overseas D2 chipped on a bad run, but this D2 is made here in the US.

And I have it on good authority that Bob Dozier has seen the D2 heat treat process that Kabar uses, and finds no fault.

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
No chipping.

I wouldn't worry to much about it. The overseas D2 chipped on a bad run, but this D2 is made here in the US.

And I have it on good authority that Bob Dozier has seen the D2 heat treat process that Kabar uses, and finds no fault.

Moose
Click to expand...

Thanks (:
 
I clean and lube all my knives and guns with the same food safe and non-toxic Rusty's Rags. I would polish the BK24 with a bit of Flitz, then wipe down with Rusty's Rags.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top