Bk3 Question from a newbie

Joined
May 18, 2011
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Hello to everyone here at BF!
(I am new to the knife world so please excuse my ignorance!!)

I purchased a Bk3 about a month ago and have been using it extensively as a woods knife. Though it was not necessarily designed for this purpose, it has been sufficient for digging, prying, chopping and splitting for me and my shenanigans so far.
The chisel grind is, well, new to me and in hindsight a bk9 would have suited my 'needs' better.

Anyway,
Have any of you fellas that own a bk3 tried to modify yours in any way? I was considering grinding down the left side a bit to increase its chopping ability but it also seems like a very foolish thing to do. Any insight? I would rather receive constructive criticism from those more knowledgeable on knives than I then ruin a perfectly good blade.

and again...please excuse my ignorance, thank you all! :D
 
I only modify, when I know I can pull it off. Go for it if you can do it, and that's what you need from the BK-3. If not, get the BK-9, put the 3 in yout car, or sell it.
 
welcome to the forum!

In answer to your qustion, it's pretty tough to get an even grind doing that and even more diffcult removing that much metal without wrecking the heat treat at the edge.
I highly recommend that rather than destroying the utility of the blade you save up for a BK9 - or put up a "want to trade BK3 for BK9" thread on the exchange - and be willing to throw some $$ out to sweeten the offer if need be.
 
you could probably find a professional to put something of a convex edge on the BK3... but why ruin a good thing :> best batoning tool i'e used so far though :)

a BK9 won't set you back far. try one of those too.
 
Welcome to the Becker forum and Bladeforums, Deadfall.

The BK3 wouldn't be my first choice for a woods knive, but that doesn't mean it can't be used as a woods knife. If you got the scratch, I say get a BK9. Or a 7. Maybe a 2. If not, I got a few tips that might help ya.

If you're chopping, use a left handed swing. Yeah, I know, unless you're a lefty, you'll be using your weak arm. Yup, but it won't stay weak for long, trust me. The chisel grind will bite in a left hand, but glance in a right hand.

For the edge, keep what you got, but creat a micro bevel on the back side, either with a stone, sandpaper, or a strop. When you sharpen, you will get a burr on the flat, so, basically, lay it flat on something, and knock the burr off. It should be shaving sharp then.

Lanyard, use one. Period.

Once you get it good and sharp, it works well as a draw knife, and is one helluva wood splitter

Loctite the screws on the handles. The BIG BEAST will shake the screws loose faster.

Build your techinque and muscles to work with the weight of the knife, and not against it.

Good luck, and if you do decide to grind a backedge, go slow, slow, slow, and keep water nearby, dunk it often, if it gets too hot to touch to your lips, let it cool off.

Moose
 
Thanks for the advice Moose, I never thought of using the 'wrong' hand before, I think I'll take her out for some more love marks and practice! And I can agree on the wood-splitting capability of this thing, I have never been so confident with a blade processing wood before.
And will creating that micro-bevel or grinding a back-edge void the warranty at all?
 
Thanks for the advice Moose, I never thought of using the 'wrong' hand before, I think I'll take her out for some more love marks and practice! And I can agree on the wood-splitting capability of this thing, I have never been so confident with a blade processing wood before.
And will creating that micro-bevel or grinding a back-edge void the warranty at all?

No, around most knife circles, that is considered "sharpening your knife". :D

Just be careful, I've seen those go flying a couple of time when you are chopping with them.

Moose
 
hehe well, I feel a little dumb for asking :foot:
and as evidenced by my finger, my bk3 already bit me, you're warning is appreciated but in vain
 
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