BK4 & BK15 WIP, stripped, sanded, convexed

JWL

Joined
Jul 20, 2010
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So one of my winter projects was to begin learning how to customize my knives, starting with the 2 I use the most, the BK15 and the BK4. Sorry in advance for the crappy photos, I am not a photographer and I have a 10 year old digital camera.

Both blades received a Fisk-style convex edge after I got my Work Sharp, but I wanted to take these knives next-level and make them mine. I learned a lot. These knives are far from perfect, but they are mine.

BK4-BK15-1.JPG


The BK4 is my go-to woods knife. After the Fisking the coating had been smoothed out and had the characteristic "stripe," but I wanted to get rid of the coating entirely. So I stripped it (many tutorials on this forum, I did nothing different). When it was stripped, I then discovered how Kabar is able to produce such great knives at such a low cost..... the finish! Using the coating means that the manufacturer doesn't have to sand down the grinding marks. I thought they were kind of ugly, so I got to work with some sandpaper (220 grit and 1200 grit). MANY MANY hours of sanding later, I still have some grind marks visible but it looks a lot better.

BK4-BK15-2.JPG


I then experimented with a forced patina, using various hot sauces and vinegars, but concluded that I didn't really care much for the look of it. So I sanded the patina off a bit with some 1200 grit, leaving the patina as only a mild "shading" in spots of the blade.

All of my knives are beaters, I use them. I don't see the point of show pieces since I'm not a collector. I didn't want to force a "perfect" patina only to have it wear away with use.

I view these mods as starting points. I will continue to use the knives and they will develop their own patinas over time. Again these knives are used.

One other mod I wanted to highlight a bit. One of the problems with a newbie like me going to town with a Work Sharp (or any other belt sander) is that it is very easy to round the tip of the knife. I did this despite my best intentions, so I decided to re-work the point/swedge just a tiny bit. Here I was greatly inspired by granitestateofmind's recent Hank Sr Machax mod, though I didn't want to take off that much metal.

I used the belt flex to give the point a bit of a "convex" feel, where the point curves ever so slightly down, rather than the straight swedge that comes stock:

BK4-point.JPG


It's almost not noticeable, but I think it's kinda sexy.

Knives are probably always a work in progress. The BK15 is likely about finished, it is likely to be relegated to kitchen duty (meaning, it will go into the wife's hands mostly). For now it is still my main carry knife, until I replace it (most likely with a BK16), at which point the BK15 will live in the kitchen.

The Machax on the other hand still needs more work before I will call her "finished." As soon as budget permits I want to replace the scales with some nice wood scales, and get her some leather pants for that beautiful voluptuous body. There is a chance I will try to DIY these but most likely tommythewho will have an order soon, as well as one of the fantastic leatherwranglers here on the boards.
 
All of my knives are beaters, I use them. I don't see the point of show pieces since I'm not a collector.

Ditto on this....I just don't see the point of a knife that sits on a shelf in a glass case and never gets used. That's not the point of a knife. I have a WIP mod on a 14 going myself right now. It is a tribute piece an will have some custom engraving but will still be carried and used.

Can't wait to see the leather you get made for the 4! Any ideas what kind of wood you want for the scales?
 
Can't wait to see the leather you get made for the 4! Any ideas what kind of wood you want for the scales?

Probably a dark wood, such as walnut. I haven't made up my mind yet though.

Still mulling over the sheath options as well. Probably some sort of a dangler sheath. I really like this Kelley sheath from our very own Psyop:

928242_orig.jpg


A Skystorm sheath isn't out of the question either. Time will tell.
 
It's fun making them your own, isn't it?

At the very least it was a learning experience which is good, even if not exactly fun. I do enjoy tinkering quite a bit, but was plagued with a bit of uncertainty about what I was doing, which made things less fun. :-)

In retrospect it is all good though. I learned a lot and the imperfections on my knife due to incompetence/lack of experience make these blades mine, and none of them were dealbreakers, meaning that the knives are still fully functional.
 
Very cool JWL! Thanks for sharing. And I do bet the 4 and 15 would make a great pair. I always think 4 and 16 but I do think I need to give my 15's a chance outdoors.
 
Yeah, it's nice and sharp, at least by my standards. The BK15 is sharper though.... ;-)
 
I'm also thinking about scale liners for the machax. The handle should be thicker (as should the blade itself, imho, but that's another story). I was thinking about which material to use for the liners, and since I work with acoustics and vibration in my day job I thought about using a material that might help absorb vibration a bit, which might make using the machax for chopping, etc., a bit easier on the hands/arms.

Is anyone aware of such a material used in knife scale liners? I was thinking about something like the following:
http://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-lightweight-vinyl-sound-damping-sheet-10-x-13--268-030

I'm just not sure how well it would hold up over time.
 
Those look great. Polishing up a 15 takes quite a while, doesn't it?

Interesting. I've never though about MLV for liners. I'm particularly fond of G10 for that application. I do have some Stinger Roadkill sound damping. I could slap some on under the scales my 7 and try it out, but to date vibration's not presented itself as an issue for me. And the butyl type stuff I have isn't very stiff, would probably move around a bit. And it's adhesive on one side, so it could get ugly trying to remove.
Worked great on my drill press stand, though.
 
Interesting. Does G10 have vibration absorptive properties?

I have only noticed it on my Machax when I'm trying to chop a tree that I really should be using a larger tool for.... LOL
 
Another possibility is to just get thicker scales and not use liners at all.

Anyone experienced with how the wood scales (a la tommythewho) feel in the hand relative to the grivory? Any difference in terms of vibration?
 
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