BK4 inbound

neffarious

neffarious

Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
2,398
Hello fellow enablers! I have a BK4 inbound, and only have flat stones and plates, specifically DMT (coarse, fine and extra fine and Shapton (5k and 12k). This works for every blade i have... until now. I do not want to buy a sharp maker. I have one and it gathered dust. I also have some serrated kitchen knives to deal with, but that is a side benefit. I was told that some people use files and ceramic rods, etc. Has anyone used the Lansky Ceramic Sharp Stick for the Bk4? There is no grit rating, and the reviews are all over from 400-1k. FWIW I have a steel already, but that doesn't really sharpen anything. There is also the 13" Lansky Diamond Sharp stick. There is no Grit Rating here either, but like 3x+ the price. Has anyone used either of these and how do you like them specifically for the BK4? Thanks for your help again!
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Roll over image to zoom in

[h=1]Lansky 8" Ceramic Sharp Stick[/h]
 
Hah! That didn't take long!
I'm spoiled; I use my WorkSharp - but wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a dowel (or section of PVC pipe) was my go to before that. DMT makes a convex stone for sharpening gouges & carving chisels but it's spendy. I think the setup you have will be fine for the part of the 4 that needs sharpening the most (the belly). The recurve can be touched up with one of the above or by any of the many suggestions which will surely follow.
 
neffarious said:
I'm weak :o. What grit(s) sandpaper?
Click to expand...

well, you must be a little bit strong to get it despite struck marital bargains.....

as for the sandpaper, get them all. I mean, seriously - they're, like, less than a buck apiece. JK....probably don't need the 60-100 if you're not planning on re-profiling. But it is a cheap setup with easily available materials, so.....
 
Agreed, i wasn't sure how high or low to go since they don't really line up with waterstone/DMT grits.
 
Were it me, I'd get a 220, 320, 400, 800 and 1200.

You'll likely only use the 220 if you are removing a ding/chip if you miss and hit a rock and bugger the edge or something. But that grit range will take you from working out chips/nicks in the edge all the way to getting a finer edge than you'd ever practically need on a chopping knife.
 
The inner recurve part is where it gets tough for me. The rest is easy enough with the Smith, sand paper, or whatever else. However, the inner recurve doesn't see as much action and after about a year of moderate use, it doesn't need it. I like to make my knives as sharp as possible. It's sharp enough to do anything I need except shave.

Congrats on your new steel!
 
Smiths has a oval shaped diamond steel in the kitchen section at wal mart. Like $15. Works great. It's big too so long blades are no problem. I also use it on my other recurve shaped blades no problem.
 
I have never had a problem with my small DMT or Ez-Lap diamond stone. They are one inch wide.
As for sand paper I would use 400 /600 / maybe 1000.
I find it best to keep em sharp and not have to go to the course grits.
 
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