BK4 sharpening advice

winterveil

winterveil

Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
243
Hey Beckerheads, I need your help. I went ahead and bought myself a BK4 (I'm still alive - the girlfriend hasn't killed me yet!) and came home today to find it waiting on the porch!

After tearing open the shipping package (and gently opening the Ka-bar packaging) I pulled out a lovely new BK4.

However, I was surprised to find that the blade is kind of dull. The other Beckers I have all came out of the box hair-popping sharp. Now, I know that Ka-bar sharpens by hand, so variances are to be expected, so here's where I need your help. I've never sharpened anything that has the Machax shape before... Any suggestions on the best way to go about that?

Here's what I have on hand to work with: Standard Lansky system, Sharpmaker, various Arkansas stones, a few diamond rods, a Lansky puck, and a bastard file.

I guess I could run it on the Sharpmaker, but that seems like it'd be kind of awkward. Carbide & ceramic rods? I'm just grasping here.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
I've use my sharp maker on my 4 many times and it works fine, takes a little getting yes to at first, but not too bad
 
Hewlett Jewel Stick. Find em on KME'S website.

Moose
 
Norton India stone, I use it on everything. I get some stones here at work that would do a fair job. If you want a handful of them I'll send them to you.
 
I used the sharpmaker on my 4 before I got a worksharp, it worked just fine. Try working on the knife in sections (recurve, then "sweet spot", then tip), and it won't seem so awkward.

Good luck :thumbup:
 
SiC sandpaper and a wooden dowel.
Don't forget, you can run different angles for better performance for the different parts of the knife, wider at the belly for chopping, finer at the tip and recurve for detail work, you can go wider for the recurve if you are going to use it for popping of small limbs from branches for durability.

Plenty of ways to individualize the edge for your personal performance needs.

Just Think of The Possibilities!!! :D
 
I know you don't have access to this from your post, but I initially used a Ken Onion Worksharp on mine. Now, I just use the Sharpmaker to keep it where I want it. I guess it's not ideal, because of the blade shape and length, but it's not that hard and it doesn't take long.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions in such short order, guys! Looks like the Sharpmaker may work after all, but I'm intrigued by some of the other options mentioned here. Moose, would I need to use the Jewelstick with the KME system, or can it be run free-hand?

Murph, I'll send you a PM.

Rick - hah!

Bill - I know! I'm excited to have a single tool that can be used for most/ all of my sharp-thingamajig needs!

Craig - I'm not opposed to picking up new sharpening tools, and in fact I typically do as the need arises. I've mainly had smaller fixed blades, folders, and hatchets in the past, so my kit is focused on that. Now t hat I'm moving up to larger blades and re-curves, a Worksharp might be in order before too long.
 
Do yourself a favor and using only the 4 make a few "try sticks". It will show you in sorry order just how versatile the knife is.

If you can't find a photo of one, I will post one.
 
I'll second sharpening the 4 in sections on the Sharpmaker. In starting that way you'll learn to feel the blade angle on each part of that curvy hunk of steel. Once your familiar with the way it feels on the rods it's a snap to touch up.

I was busting up some pallet wood for the fire pit with my 4 and found out what a nail can do to your edge. :grumpy: It took a few settings with the Sharpmaker but I definitely know the edge for future sharpening. It works fine.

Congrats on the 4...Its an awesome knife!
 
I had the same issue with mine ...what i did was...wrap some sand paper around a wooden dowel to get the initial edge worked the way you want..after that i used my lansky system which worked pretty well..i since have gotten a lanksy puck..works good.
 
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