BK5 Facelift

Runs With Scissors

Runs With Scissors

Joined
Dec 3, 2000
Messages
3,002
Most folks who have been around here awhile have heard me a hootin' an' a hollerin' my undying love for my BK5. it's been a companion to me through long working days, helped make fires, unstick trucks, made many a meal and save my best friends life. (don't discriminate against him just cuz he's a quadriped!):D

Thing is I'm gettin' restless with it, and have decided to give it a makeover. (now there's one you'll never see on the day time talk shows)

Here's what I got in mind:

Removing the bullet proof black stuff, bringing it to the brightest smoothest finish possible

putting a convex edge on it

putting some wooden grips on it.

getting a leather sheath for it.


I saw one that if I recall correctly Xrayed had done some years ago that has really stuck with me...VERY cool. I prefer to do as much as I can with my own ten thumbs.

So, what do you think is the cleanest, most efficient way to get the blade coating gone? I don't think a pan of MEK will work on this one... Any tips or tricks for the high polish part?

I think I can get the convex edge done alright, but should I see about having it done professionally anyways? Isn't it like $25 to have Mr. Fisk himself do it? I wonder how long the turn around time is?

outta curiousity, are there any wooden grips for those things still around, or should I stick with plan to make my own? If making my own, whaddya think would be the best way to secure 'em, since I can't exactly duplicate the nut holders of the original grips?

thanks!
 
Paint stripper gets the coating off.
But it will be quite prone to rust if ya do this.

I think Micarta would be better than wood for durability and to prevent warpage.
If you insist on wood you could pin and epoxy them on.
 
Considered the rust issue long and hard for many moons. Alaska is actually a very dry climate, so rust isn't too much of an issue. I also figured that if it develops a patina that drives me nuts I can just have it Black T'ed.

hmmmm...maybe if I do pin and epoxy 'em I could leave some coating underneath the handle surface since it would be a permanent deal. Hopefully I can still find a relatively simple way to have the handles stay removable.
 
I've thought about this one too. Perhaps if you make the countersink on the bolt side slightly wider, you can hold the bolts with a needlenose plier while you screw in the other side. I have to agrre about the micarta or even G-10; If you can find the two-toned micarta that takes on a wood grain when contoured (like green-black, burgundy-black)I think it would come out quite nicely. From what I've read about people removing the coating on these, the patina that is left provides a certain degree of rust protection anyway. Good luck with it. If you take some pics and post them, maybe I'll be inspired to try it myself.:)

BTW did you get my e-mail? (not that I'm impatient but just making sure it's you I sent it to and not someone spoofing your BFC name:o )
 
Originally posted by Runs With Scissors




I saw one that if I recall correctly Xrayed had done some years ago that has really stuck with me...VERY cool. I prefer to do as much as I can with my own ten thumbs.
Click to expand...

Thanks for remembering that one. I used Duplicolor brand paint stripper. It comes in a spray can. I used a razor blade to jusr peel off the coating once it wrinkled.

It would be really cool to have that knife the way you described but with osage orange handle scales. I would just epoxy and pin them in place.

Greg
 
Heya MC, I did get yer email today. I'll be mailing tomorrow from Anchorage. Never guaranteed, but when I mail straight from the airport it often times reaches it's destination a little quicker.

The stripping part is 98% done. I still gotta get a couple high spots around the handle, but it shouldn't take more than twenty minutes or so. So far I'm relieved, it's looking very nice.

The convex edge is proving to be a real bearcat. I've gotten it to hair popping sharp, but it just doesn't....errr...well...pop the hair as high as I would hope for. More work tomorrow, maybe move from finishing on 1500 grit paper to 2000. See if I can get some stropping compound out at the local Sears...

I'm kinda stuck on the wooden handles for this one. It may not survive WW3, but it will suit my tastes and leaning towards natural materials a little better. Being a solid tang knife its still functional, even if a handle does somehow break off.

That one XRAYED did was pretty memorable. It stayed in my memory banks long enough to inspire me to try my own. It was definitely quite "Moranish":D
 
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