BK7 - Pointy hammer?

RokJok

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Oct 6, 2000
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Well, this curmudgeonly old Busseholic got his BK&T Combat Utility 7 from 1SKS a few days ago. I haven't yet taken the time to test the BK7 on cutting/slicing or chopping chores around the house and yard. That'll most likely happen this weekend.

This is my first BK&T and it certainly made a very nice first impression. In initial handling of the knife I really liked the broad radii of the BK7's very comfortable handle and the blade's sharp edge. It was literally shaving sharp out of the box. Because it is very neutral in balance, I expect chopping will be a tough test for this knife. We'll see how it handles trimming 1/2"-3/4" maple branches, which is the never-ending task for my mid-size knives. I am especially interested in how comfortable the handle is while chopping vis-a-vis the handles on my Busse Basic 7, which is my current standard for comfortable handles because its somewhat rounded shape fits my shorter fingers extremely well. The BK&T handle likewise has a rounded cross section, albeit at a somewhat large diameter, which should bode well for it being a very comfortable user blade.

When I got the knife the only thing I raised an eyebrow at is the smallness (pointiness) of the extended tang pommel/skullcrusher. For field hammering I prefer a full height extended tang hammering surface. This is especially true for crushable materials like improvised green wood tent stakes where you want to spread applied force over as much area as possible. It also provides some forgiveness to those of us who have less than perfect aim while hammering with a knife pommel. ;)

On the other hand, it looks like trimming the upper part of the extended tang downward will prevent it from digging into the ball of your hand if you choke all the way back to the end of the handle while chopping. It likewise leaves available a bit of the nicely radiused rear edge of the handle as a thumb-rest in a reverse grip. Striking a bone with the pommel in its current narrow & pointy configuration would concentrate the applied force and cause more severe damage. I'm hoping someone can enlighten me on the reason for the narrowness of the pommel hammer. Not that it's enough to make me get rid of the knife.

And I guess that points out how much I really do like this knife -- that the only thing I can find to question is the extended tang hammer. The usual biggies that make up a knife (steel, blade & edge geometry, handle materials & comfort, sharpness, sturdiness, appropriateness to mission, etc) have already been taken care of nicely at a very sweet price. As others have noted, the sheath is also very utilitarian with its kydex liner and handy outside pocket. My hat's off to Ethan Becker for the design of this knife and to Will Fennell for marketing it at a very affordable price. :) :)
 
RokJok,
As mentioned above, glad to have you as a customer! You pretty much summed up the reasons for the shape of the extended tang area of the C/U7.....ergonomics, and CONCENTRATING force when used to strike....objects, whether its being used as a weapon, or being used to break something apart that you don't want to strike with the tip of the blade.

We don't recommend striking objects smaller than the tang of the blade, like nail heads or hard wooden pegs, with the tang of the knife. This is a sure way to get hurt when, not if, you miss the nail head with the tang, and get it with your hand:eek:

If you must use the knife as an improvised hammer for stuff like that, use the spine of the blade. You will have more force, and a much larger surface to hit with.

We feel that the extended tang will be used more for folks that want to DRIVE the knife tip into something else, by striking the butt of the knife with a hammer or most likely improvised baton. It gives you a surface to strike that is perpendicular to the blade, and sturdy enough to take the blow.

Let us know how the knife works out for you!
 
The extension makes a nice pinky rest when you choke back to chop, just have to keep a tight grip, unless you want to see how far it can fly:)
I just got back from a few days "out there", and had my first chance to try out the BK7.
Does great on small branches on pine and beech. One chop for 1-1 1/2" stuff.
I chopped down a 9" pine with it, but this was a pretty big job for the knife and it took almost half an hour (I was on my knees and in an awkward position, though-tree was on the edge of a rock outcropping. I was "trying something":p).
And yeah, I beat the tip into a log using a baton on the butt.
Dug a bunch of knots and heartwood out of a pine log, too, without hurting the tip.
Gotta love this thing. Took about two minutes to have it shaving again when I got home a little while ago.
Fifty bucks? I like this thing as much as I did my Natural Outlaw...
Ok, so the thumb serrations hurt when you ram it full force into a log tip first (did I really think it wouldn't hurt?? duh).
But really...fifty bucks???

btw, I didn't use a tent this week, so didn't drive any stakes, but could see using the extension to tap a stake in. I wouldn't try to drive a nail with it, though.
 
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