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BK9 convexed (with pics)

J

JWL

Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
800
After inspiration from Jerry Fisk (and especially this video), I decided to "Fisk" my BK9, or put a convex edge on it. I used my Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener, freehand. Sorry for the crappy pics, my camera is OLD.

BK-9-convexed-1.JPG


BK-9-convexed-2.JPG


BK-9-convexed-3.JPG


I'm really loving convex edges on all the Beckers I've tried it on (BK2, BK14, and now BK9).
 
Makes it wicked sharp doesn't it? What I like most is the slicing ability it gives to the big knives. The factory edge, while sharp as hell, is a bit wide for my liking. Looks good and sharp from here. :thumbup:
 
After fisking my BK7, it tore the crap outta the woods. I'm gonna convex a lot more edges from now on. Especially big blades.
 
Yep, she's sharp. Sharpest blade I've done yet for sure.... might be the sharpest blade I've ever seen (not saying much, I have yet to see a real expert go to town with a good knife in person). I have to get her out a-choppin in the woods, but I have high hopes for sure. I know what convexing did to my BK2 in terms of its ability to devour wood....
 
I have heard that the convex is better than the straight factory edge, however I have also heard that it is difficult to touch up and maintain while in the field, therefore I use a straight edge mainly. What technique did you use for the convex edge?
Is there a convex edge technique that can be applied to touch up while on the field?
 
dallastxco said:
I have heard that the convex is better than the straight factory edge, however I have also heard that it is difficult to touch up and maintain while in the field, therefore I use a straight edge mainly. What technique did you use for the convex edge?
Is there a convex edge technique that can be applied to touch up while on the field?
Click to expand...

Setup a sharpening tin. I have two. One for convex one for v edges. The convex consists of an Altoids tin. With a price of leather and sandpaper in 220, 400, and 1000 grit. Put the leather on top of the tin and the paper on the leather.and strop. The v one is my standard survival tin, just with a piece of 400 grit paper glued to the top like a makeshift stone.
 
clich said:
Setup a sharpening tin. I have two. One for convex one for v edges. The convex consists of an Altoids tin. With a price of leather and sandpaper in 220, 400, and 1000 grit. Put the leather on top of the tin and the paper on the leather.and strop. The v one is my standard survival tin, just with a piece of 400 grit paper glued to the top like a makeshift stone.
Click to expand...

Nice method, Clich. Thanks for that.

I don't really have a field sharpening strategy yet.... I use a miniature belt sander (the Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener) and use the method Jerry Fisk uses in the video linked in the first post above. I think I will put together a field sharpening kit with a spare altoids tin though.... I love the idea.
 
I wish I could say the idea was mine, but alas its not. I forget where I saw it but it was someone else's idea. I think I remember them saying the leather had compound on it as well. Mine doesn't since the 1000 grit is plenty sharp enough for whatever it is I'm doing in the field. But hey if you wanna shave with it too the compounds a good idea lol. The paper glued to the tin was my idea but that stemmed from the convex kit. So they get an assist.
 
I can't wait to baton with this blade..... the smoothness of the convex edge should just melt through the wood without getting hung up. Mmmm...... slicy.
 
JWL said:
I can't wait to baton with this blade..... the smoothness of the convex edge should just melt through the wood without getting hung up. Mmmm...... slicy.
Click to expand...

This is just the opposite of my experience with a convex edge. My understanding is that because the edge gets thicker, faster than a flat grind, there is more drag and therefore it doesn't slice as deeply without more force.


:confused:



For batonning though, I can see the benefit. My axe has a convex grind.
 
I agree with scouter27. I like a convex edge for the ease of maintenance and longevity/durability of the edge, but they don't slice as easily as a v-grind, in my experience.
 
to the OP, yeah, mine looks just like that. wicked edge.
 
When batoning, I've found that convex blades might need an extra whack to get started splitting a log, but once it makes the initial "bite" it then goes through the log more smoothly. At least that's how my BK2 seems to respond.
 
scouter27 said:
This is just the opposite of my experience with a convex edge. My understanding is that because the edge gets thicker, faster than a flat grind, there is more drag and therefore it doesn't slice as deeply without more force.


:confused:



For batonning though, I can see the benefit. My axe has a convex grind.
Click to expand...



Its the opposite actually when it comes to batoning with a flat grind. A sabre grind or a convex has a shoulder which is the only part of the knife in contact with the wood when being hammered through. A flat grind is flat all the way to the spine which means more surface area in contact and thus more friction. In my experience a sabre is best for batoning, with a convex a close second. What the OP has is now a convex sabre, which is the best of both worlds for batoning and slicing.
 
JWL said:
When batoning, I've found that convex blades might need an extra whack to get started splitting a log, but once it makes the initial "bite" it then goes through the log more smoothly. At least that's how my BK2 seems to respond.
Click to expand...

Batonning is not the same as slicing though. the quicker transition to "full thickness" when compared to a flat grind means you have less drag over the surface of the knife when driving it through. It's a similar mechanic to the distal taper on the BK5, just on a different scale.
 
Oh yeh flat grinds slice thinner, but I don't think better. Again with a convex the thickness of the grind pushes whatever your slicing away for each side leaving less friction on the blade. I've had more tearing type cuts with a flat grind than with a convex
 
I don't want to do something to my BK2 and my Izula that I might regret down the road so:

I'm calling out all the experts to settle this once and for all ..... Convex? or V?
 
Just try both. It's not that difficult to go from V to convex and back if you don't like it. It's purely personal preference.
 
I definitely would not call myself an expert, but so far I've perferred convex on every blade I've tried it on. The only blades I wouldn't convex are really thin blades that are hollow ground by default.

But it's quite likely I have no idea wtf I'm talking about. :-)
 
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