BK9 mod question

Jester60

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May 21, 2011
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I've got a user BK9 that I want to strip, smooth out the small dents on the spine (looks like someone used a hammer on it), reshape the broken tip, and convex the edge. Is the metal work something that can be done with a Dremel, a few files, and some time or do I need a belt sander? Would it be better to send it out to have the metal work done?

Thanks,
Jester

We have no government armed with power capable of contending with human passions unbridled by morality and religion. Avarice, ambition, revenge or gallantry would break the strongest cords of our Constitution as a whale goes through a net. Our Constitution is designed only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for any other.
John Adams
US diplomat & politician (1735 - 1826)
 
You have all you should need. Some basic hand tools and a little bit of work and you can get it done.
Invest in lots of good silicon carbide sandpaper. GatorGrit is my favorite.
 
I also want learn how to convex the edge so detailed instructions are welcome.....subscribed and trolling now......
 
Ok, I do want to say this first, and foremost, when using any kind of motorized tool, go slow and keep the metall cool. If you can touch it to your lips, you should be good to go on the Heat Treat.

Motors don't care, or have a conscience. They also don't care what they grind on. Take your time, be sure and plan out your approach, once its gone, there is no getting it back.

All that said, I'm a modder. Almost all my knives are modded, except my ESEE's, they're just for lookin' at. :D

My BK9, hangin' out at the river,

100_2461.jpg


Feel free to take it as far as you want to go. I stipped, put a patina on, ground of the ramp, and squared the spine. Those are like my, "standard" mods. It makes the knife fit my needs. Going for cool is great, but you plan on using it for this or that, think about the mods that facilitates this or that.

Practice first on something you don't mind tearing up, get good, then go for it.

Good luck, have fun, be safe, and post pics of the work.

Moose
 
Here's my 9 stripped and patina-ed id like a convex and I have micarta enroute that im gonna try and give a snake skin effect to. Mod it up brother and when u find out how to home convex let me know

451207289_photobucket_49792_.jpg

451207289_photobucket_49793_.jpg
 
Mustard applied with a crappy disposable brush they call a chip brush in a random diagonal pattern. Let sit for 20-30 minutes, wipe of with apple cider vinegar and repeat 3 times. Thanks for the compliments, much appreciated
 
I've got a user BK9 that I want to strip, smooth out the small dents on the spine (looks like someone used a hammer on it), reshape the broken tip, and convex the edge. Is the metal work something that can be done with a Dremel, a few files, and some time or do I need a belt sander? Would it be better to send it out to have the metal work done?

Thanks,
Jester

As far as "home convexing," it's a lot of work, but not complicated at all. I followed Virtuovice's tutorial just a couple of weeks ago on my BK2, and came up with this:

BK2-Polished-04.jpg


The convex edge sharpens up so much easier than the beveled edge. I used 1500 grit wet/dry first, then a few strokes on the crock sticks, and even on a BK2, the hair just falls off my arm if I show it the knife!

I also stripped my 9 awhile back. Here's one of the threads I devoted to the job. Gives kind of a step-by-step, but it's intentionally corny as Hell just for sh!ts 'n giggles (and qualifying for Beckerhead number). Here she is today:

9-in-lights-signed.jpg


DSCF3466.jpg


Haven't convexed her edge yet, but I'm thinking I will pretty soon.

Dig in man. Can't destroy your Becker knives just by modding them. The worst that can happen is you try to convex and can't get it sharp to your satisfaction, and you have to send it out to get it done. Might as well try first since you're thinking about doing that anyway. Can't hurt to learn, even if you don't get it right the first time. Go for it.

Blues
 
Check out my bk9 fighter thread... I only used files and a little bit of dremeling. Just take your time and keep the metal from getting hot.
 
thats all? just 7-8 hours of sanding on 80 grit?

Well, no. Is that what he said in his vid, all 80 grit for the whole 7 or 8 hours? I was referring to his technique more than what kind of paper he was using though. I didn't have any low-grit paper on hand, so I started with 340 or 400 I think. Used like two or three sheets wrapped on my leather strop that is glued to a piece of scrap oak 1" board. I didn't use any chems on the coating because I was trying to preserve the coating up there where....well....where the coating is preserved! LOL The convex was accomplished long before I got all the coating sanded off. After the coating was gone, rinsed and repeated using one or two sheets each of 600, 1,000 and 1,500 grit papers. Finished with White Dico loaded onto a POS buffing wheel attachment for a drill motor. Locked the drill motor on real low rpms because it got hot real fast otherwise.

Virtuovice is more of a perfectionist than I am. It took me most of a day to do it, but not counting breaks or eating or other distractions, I don't think I had more than about 5 to 6 hours total into it.

But to answer your question directly, no, not a smidgeon of 80 grit has ever touched that knife. :D

Blues
 
Thanks all. Looks like I'll give it a try when I get home next weekend. When I get into it I'll post some pics of the process.

Thanks,
Jester

We have no government armed with power capable of contending with human passions unbridled by morality and religion. Avarice, ambition, revenge or gallantry would break the strongest cords of our Constitution as a whale goes through a net. Our Constitution is designed only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for any other.
John Adams
US diplomat & politician (1735 - 1826)
 
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