Black damascus

J. Neilson

J. Neilson

Joined
Feb 6, 2001
Messages
3,621
I've got a customer asking for black damascus. Now Rene told me a trick to darken my damascus but, I don't know about black. How is that done, blueing or such?
:confused:

I'm full of questions lately, heh?
 
By black, do they mean color? The only "black" damascus I can think of is where theres mostly high carbon steel, with fine lines of Ni. A good etch, using baking soda to really boil the oxidants into the blade, followed by ren wax usually comes out looking pretty black.

This was done this way, then sanded on high spots and heat blued in the center.
2.jpg
 
Brownells sells black and brown baking laquer. You can deep etch cutting your dark steel the most, clean, spray and bake. You then with 2000 grit gently remove the surface leaving the black where the dark usually 10xx series would show...Ed
 
J. I can have Black Joe from across the street weld up a billet, if that would help??????? HEHEHEHEHE!!!
PS: Cheeeesel is white Joe. :confused: :confused:
 
J. Neilson said:
I've got a customer asking for black damascus. Now Rene told me a trick to darken my damascus but, I don't know about black. How is that done, blueing or such?
:confused:

I'm full of questions lately, heh?
Click to expand...

I did not! ok maybe... :D
 
Ferric chloride gives a pretty black oxide. Maybe you could use steels that all turn out dark and give a deep etch so the pattern is in the topography, not in the colors.
 
The higher the carbon content (and the less alloy metals) the blacker the etch.A billet of 1095 and 15N20 will etch in FC to nearly Black with bright contrast lines.1095 and 5160 will have a lower contrast,but will end up all black.
 
bladsmth said:
The higher the carbon content (and the less alloy metals) the blacker the etch.A billet of 1095 and 15N20 will etch in FC to nearly Black with bright contrast lines.1095 and 5160 will have a lower contrast,but will end up all black.
Click to expand...

J you want some 15n20 too when I come down to the H/I :D :D
 
J. Neilson said:
No, I should be good there Dan, just don't forget that JD5160.
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I have two shipments coming
one headed out to me mon. and the other tues..

I'm keeping my fingers crossed :( :)
 
Take your blade to the local gun smith and have them Hot Black/Blue the blade.
Comes out near black and different materials take different shades. Ask them before forging the billet.
Would look outstanding for a canister damascus mix:D
Todd Kopp does that quite a bit and he does some stunning work!
 
Hi J, Jim Shaver has done bluing for me. If he leaves it in the salts for 30 seconds it turns out blue, 45 seconds, its black. After bluing, To get a lot of contrast, I sand the surface with 1000 grit
using a wood block. I do a fairly heavy etch with the feric chloride. If you use 15n20 or the like in the billet you get a lovely black base with a silver overlay.
What is the actual apperance your client is lookng for. After reading back over this I realize I am probable not doing you any good here. Jams, Fred
 
You can buy something called Gun Black or something like that. It's just like blueing, but it's black. I don't much about knifemaking, and I don't if that's the answer you're looking for, but it's the best I can do for you. :)
 
Walking Man said:
You can buy something called Gun Black or something like that. It's just like blueing, but it's black. I don't much about knifemaking, and I don't if that's the answer you're looking for, but it's the best I can do for you. :)
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J. At the HI try my Tool Black.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I've tried tool black and Brownell's baking laquer without much success in the past, maybe I was doing something wrong though. I may try the O1/nickle thing, I've seen that and it's very nice. I haven't used much O1 in the past but, I've got a bunch here that's been begging to be put in the forge. The "black" damascus was a general question from this customer so I'm not really sure what he wants yet. We'll see. I'll look forward to hearing from you Del. Thanks again guys, I'll let you know how it works out.
 
J, 01 etches very black as does 1080 & 1084. The higher the manganess(spelling?) the blacker the steel. Heat treated steel will also be much blacker than non heat-treated. How you treat the steel after you etch makes a big diff, if you sand or buff after the etch you lost some or all the black, if you just wax after, it'll be the blackest. If I sand or buff after the etch, I will go back and etch for another 2 - 3 min.s which comes out lookin mighty good. Jax Black will blacken steel, iron and nickle and is easier than hot bluing.

Don Hanson lll sunfishforge.com
 
Thanks Don. I normally do buff my damascus after etching, I'll try that out on the next piece I do for the table. Good tip.
 
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