Black Palm question

[Frank Perricone]

Hello Gentlemen. Bought a small length of Black Palm and upon opening the packaging I was puzzled, to say the least. Nice looking but splintery. Weird! OK! On to the internet. Oh. It really is a grass. OK. It's better stabilized. Didn't know that. I should have. I do now! The purveyor might have had a note with the offering. How can I use this? I brushed J-Flex on one side. Nice. Could make a handle and finish with epoxy. Doesn't sound right. Any suggestions?
Franco
And thanks in advance. Gotta go and take couple splinters out.

 

[Greenberg Woods]

I highly recommend against doing that.

Black palm is a tricky wood "Yes, i know its technically a grass" to work with.

There is a wide range of grades of it, depending on the density of the small black fibers.

Many people get lured in by the wild apperance of the grain and that it looks like nothing else, but they dont use it right. They use relativly low grades, its often wet and rarely stabilzied due to the high cost of stabilizing it. This results in tear out, cracks and other issues.

YOu will also often see cross grain palm which looks very interesting but will ALWAYS crack and break on you.

I personally sell a stabilized Bias cut black palm using very high grades of palm, but thats a different matter.

I would recommend you post a photo of the piece you received, depending on the quality it may or may not be worth having stabilized.

 

[matthewhoffman]

I've used a lot of black palm. Hate working with it because, as you said, those splinters. But it makes a lovely handle. I use stabilized, but I've also sanded unstabilized to 800 grit and treated with a few coats of Tru Oil. Nice looking stuff.

- matthew

 

[HSC ///]

This cracked on me but was able to salvage it with glue

 

[3fifty7]

I’ve been intrigued by black palm but very hesitant to work with it.

 

[Mark van Elteren]

I have used both red and black palm - unstabilized and stabilized. A good piece has very dense and uniform "end grain" - if it seems empty or the grain is "loose", the piece probably isn't worth using. I have always used it lengthwise, with the end grain at the butt and front of the handle.

I also suggest against trying to cut the stuff with edged tools - it will tear and splinter, so it is better to grind it.

 

[Frank Perricone]

I've used a lot of black palm. Hate working with it because, as you said, those splinters. But it makes a lovely handle. I use stabilized, but I've also sanded unstabilized to 800 grit and treated with a few coats of Tru Oil. Nice looking stuff.

- matthew

Thanks Matthew

 

[Frank Perricone]

I highly recommend against doing that.

Black palm is a tricky wood "Yes, i know its technically a grass" to work with.

There is a wide range of grades of it, depending on the density of the small black fibers.

Many people get lured in by the wild apperance of the grain and that it looks like nothing else, but they dont use it right. They use relativly low grades, its often wet and rarely stabilzied due to the high cost of stabilizing it. This results in tear out, cracks and other issues.

YOu will also often see cross grain palm which looks very interesting but will ALWAYS crack and break on you.

I personally sell a stabilized Bias cut black palm using very high grades of palm, but thats a different matter.

I would recommend you post a photo of the piece you received, depending on the quality it may or may not be worth having stabilized.

 

[Frank Perricone]

Photo of Black Palm after light sanding on the grinder with worn #60. Frankly, I don't think it is worth anything. While I like the look, it is craziness to handle. Need gloves always. Thanks again for your detailed response. Franco