Blackjack Slick and Small

Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
1,373
This is a preliminary review of 2 knives the Blackjack Slick and the Blackjack Small, both in AUS10 Stainless Steel with the leather handles. Both knives have the convex ground blade and are made in Seki Japan. The edge angle was about 12 degrees with the Slick showing a slight secondary edge and the Small a primary edge only.

Slick – out of the box this knife is 6-15/16” long with a clip point blade of 3-5/16” OAL and a cutting edge of 3-1/8” (very little ricasso) and is 1-1/8” at its widest and 3/16” thick with a distall taper running from the beginning of the clip to the point. The clip is curved with a slight swedge and is 2-3/8” long.

slickleather.jpg


Small - out of the box this knife is 6-7/8” long with a clip point blade of 3-3/16” OAL and a cutting edge of just over 3” (very little ricasso) and is 1-1/8” at its widest and 3/16” thick with a distall taper running from the beginning of the clip to the point. The clip is straight with a slight swedge and is 2-7/16” long.

smallleather.jpg


Both knives have a brass guard and a stainless steel pommel and come with a leather pouch sheath.

Out of the box both knives were very sharp and cut in a similar manner. They cut leather, rope and cardboard easily as well as bring a ½” hardwood dowel to a point. On ripe tomatoes they sliced well, but on the carrot test both only cut about 2/3rd of the thick end of new carrots before splitting started. The Slick was better at deboning chicken thigh and legs given its finer point but both knives cut well even through sinew and skin.

At this stage both knives were stropped on a leather strip charged with jewelers rouge. Both knives easily cut ½” x 3/16” leather into 1/8” and ¼” inch widths. Using 3/8” manila rope both knives made around 30 cuts before showing slight slippage. I again stropped the blades and made short work of a couple of cardboard boxes although starting to “stick” when cuts were made 6 to 8” from the edge. Moving on to the ½” hardwood dowel both knives bought the dowel to a point a number of times and after both were still able to shave arm hair.

Out in the field I took the Slick on a picnic and it performed well on bread rolls, tomatoes, Stras sausage (about 2” in diameter), peeling apples, cutting “tasty” cheese and using the point to extract pickled onions from a bottle. I carried the Small on the farm for a while and used it to trim back bushes, opening hay blaes and feed bags, making walking staffs out of fallen branches, skin a dead sheep and take the hind legs off a roadkill ‘roo for dog meat. The knife performed well and only needed to be stropped to keep the edge in tip top condition.

Both knives kept their edges. Having not used AUS10 before it was hard go gauge but I would say it was better than 440c but not as good as VG10. The round handle is comfortable and didn’t create any hot spots but it may be a bit small for some hands. The knives worked well in most knife holds inc., the basic, nicking, fiddling, press and thrust. For Australian game either knife would work well up to small deer (fallow) with preference given to the Small for goats and ‘roos as it has the better skinning shape (in fact its shape is similar to that recommended by John Leidreiter in his book “A Handbook on Knives Skinning ant Tanning”) and it’s a shame the shape is not made as much any more. The Slick would be too big for rabbits and hares but its finer point could prove its worth on foxes.

The guard does provide some measure of safety but the lack of any reasonable choil prevents choking up on the blade unless you are very careful. It also provides some problems when sharpening with some systems you will miss the first part of the blade. There is no thumb grip on the back of the blade but it is thick enough not to dig into the thumb in press cuts.

To conclude these knives excel at shallow cuts but are not as good on materials that are thick and stiff whereas a knife like the Spyderco Moran Featherweight would perform much better. Blackjack do make these knives with other handle materials like maple and stag so if you don’t like the round leather than have a look at the others. The sheaths are well made and hold the knives well but may loosen up with use so it is an idea to keep a watch on this. You could argue for thinner blade stock but this would take away from the robustness of the blade. Fit and finish are good although on one knife the swedges didn’t match whilst on the other the blade seems to be 1/8” out from tip to pommel.

Well that’s about if for me for a while – I have more reviews to type up and make presentable for the WebSite inc., BM553, Pacific Salt, Spyderco Delica and Moran FB01, Buck MiniStrider SP, Tom Kreins TK1, Kabar Dozier (AUS8) and F-Dick 8” Chefs.

So if you’re getting sick of my threads relax I wont have any for a few weeks.
 
JDBLADE said:
...not used AUS10 before
It is a japanese version of 440C with a few changes, Vanadium for one. Performance should be similar, probably with the edge to AUS-10 depending on hardness, pretty much exactly what you noted.

To conclude these knives excel at shallow cuts but are not as good on materials that are thick and stiff ...
I have a Small, that is exactly how I would describe it.

You could argue for thinner blade stock but this would take away from the robustness of the blade.
Some people just like thicker blades for hunters, it doesn't really reduce the cutting ability on shallow cuts and through soft materials, and it has some ergonomic advantages such as thumb on spine gets uncomfortable fast on 1/16" where as it is very smooth on one of Boye's 1/4" hunters with the fully rounded spine.

I would be careful of arguing robustness in the blade due to the point, you would want a more coherent design for that, the small I had lost its tip very easily. The main body of the blade is decently stout, simply because it is so short, but if you wanted to use this for a utility style multi-tool blade I'd craft a stouter point, nothing brutish, just like the Howling Rat.

A really thin blade, 1/16" or 1/32" would just look really cheap to many, thicker blades just say quality to a lot of people. In some respects this is true, like the really cheap large bowies you get at flea markets and such, maybe this is where the perspective comes from. Some people promote it as well, Thompson made a huge deal out of the 1/4+ stock on the Trailmaster for example.

Odd to see stainless on that kind of traditional design, it just screams 52100 or similar.

-Cliff
 
Posted by Cliff Stamp
I would be careful of arguing robustness in the blade due to the point, you would want a more coherent design for that, the small I had lost its tip very easily.
Cliff I was aware of the problem you had with yours and looking at the one I reviewed I wondered why given that the tip seems to be strout enough in relation to the whole of the blade. Given that there are always variations in the grinds of a model of knife could it be that yours had a finer tip - if that is the case it would be interesting to know which is more common amongst the Smalls. Also I believe yours was the 52100 model which I believe is cryo treated - would this make any difference. Anyway it is a good warning for those who own one or are considering buying one.
 
Hi guys, I have the Slick and think it's a pretty good cutter, better than most knives.

I like the small choil, I like the steel and love the stacked leather handle with enough guard to make it feel safe, I just wish it was 1/2" longer on the handle and 1/2' longer on the blade.

Collecter
 
JDBLADE said:
...could it be that yours had a finer tip
The one I have was < 0.020" thick at 1/8" back from the point where it snapped. Even after I thickened the tip when I reground it, the point is still finer than on the Paramilitary for example, wider but thinner.

I have read comments about the inconsistent nature of Blackjack grinds and there have also been similar issues about the heat treating. Bark River which is an offshoot has weird heat treat ideas as well.

...yours was the 52100 model which I believe is cryo treated - would this make any difference.
It should make it less likely to break. I was surprised when the one I had broke because it had no flex and little give, it cracked like brittle high carbon stainless.

For little blades like that, unless you want a prybar class utility knife, I like to have them much more narrow, then you have more turning ability for carving, whittling, paring and other such precision work.

-Cliff
 
Posted by Cliff Stamp
The one I have was < 0.020" thick at 1/8" back from the point where it snapped. Even after I thickened the tip when I reground it, the point is still finer than on the Paramilitary for example, wider but thinner.
The Slick I reviewed was .030" and the Small .04 as out of the box!
 
Yours has double the thickness of mine, they are not going to be even similar in tip behavior, yeah that is a fairly stout profile.

-Cliff
 
So the question is - what is the common denominator? Slim or thick? Anyone out there have one and what type of point do you have?
 
Back
Top