Blacksmith Tools?

RyanW

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I did some searches and couldn't find the info I needed. After making my first billet of cable damascus I have the forging bug, I am not ready to jump in with both feet yet but am trying to gradually collect the tools required so I can hit the ground running when that time comes.

My Short list:
- Forge (I have a Venturi propane forge and am building a Blown Forge now)
- Anvil (I have a 70# my grandfather had)
- Various Tongs (I have 1 duckbill that can handle 1/4" Round and 1/2" Bar stock)
- Hammers (This is where I need help, there are so many different types of hammers out there what is the first hammer style I should look for)

any additional advice is appreciated.
Ryan
 
I would say start with a cross peen as far as type goes, but that may be because it's the one I use most. If you are going to do forging for any length of time you will no doubt end up with a variety of hammers. A good smithing hammer can run you 70-100+$ and for someone just starting out that is quite a bit for something you may not like and may not see much use in the long run. You can usually find a good assortment of hammers at yard sales, pawn shops, or junk shops. I would recommend that you pick up several different styles if you can get them for a few dollars apiece. They may need re-handled, and will need re-faced and polished to suit. You can modify them to your hearts content and not be out much, creating cross, straight, or angle peens from small sledge heads. Once you find out what works for you then you can buy something of better quality. I know several smiths and everybody seems to do things a little different in the hammer department. One guy uses a ball peen of about 2 1/2 pounds for almost everything, another gets a lot of use out of a cross and straight pair that he made from identical 4 pound sledges. Weight seems to vary a lot as well. It's just about finding out what works for you.
 
Totally right on with the hammer remarks there.

As far as tongs, learn to make them. 1/2" square stock works well, or 3/4" round if you don't mind drawing out by hand a lot, or even #5 rebar for your first couple pairs. It'll improve your hammering skills, and save you money. Plus you can modify them as needed.

There are some tongs-making tutorials at anvilfire.com, and I think at Iforgeiron.com.
Those are also good places to learn about smithing, or for tailgate tool sales.
Also, Don Fogg's bladesmith forums are great for the same reasons.
 
If you gonna forge just blades then you wont need as many tools as a regular blacksmith. Of course when you get going you can make most of your own tools. A a few pair of tongs to hold flat stock and if your gonna weld cable then some tongs to hold round stock. Something not nessasary but very helpful in welding cable is a good swage for your hardy hole or a swage block. We weld all our cable in a swage block. You can also use the step of the anvil but a half round swage is the best..
 
Thanks everyone for the input that helps a lot!

Woodzman and salem - I plan on hitting the pawn shops within the next week or two, the hammer info is exactly what I needed.
Kentucky - I actually didn't like the cable, too many inclusions and I just HT'd a small blade from my cable damascus and it split right down the middle from cutting edge to spine! I know it is due to my inexperience... I will start out with bar stock and round stock, possibly using some of Aldo's 1084 damascus.
 
If you get a chance, try out the Peddinghaus French pattern.
http://www.centaurforge.com/Peddinghaus-1000-g-French-Pattern-Hammer/productinfo/5029021000/
I have one 1000g, and one lighter one.
I know, yeah, it's funny looking when you first see it- but I haven't found anything that's as easy to swing accurately, and the square face gives you options that round face hammers don't have.
That said, when I"m forging knives, I also use a couple of other round faced hammers that I've dressed to have a smooth domed face- good for forging the bevel.
One is a Sears cross pien- it sure didn't come ready to use though, had to spend some time grinding and sanding the face.
 
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