Blade and edge geometries for the knife layman

baxtrom

baxtrom

Joined
Jan 15, 2012
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858
Hi all,
Shouldn’t we have a list of pros and cons of different blade geometries pinned here? What’s the purpose of a clip point? Is drop point the best general purpose edc blade geometry? Is tanto hard to sharpen? What is belly good for and when is a straight edge preferable?

On top of that there are edge geometries too. Convex and hollow and sabre and scandi grinds et c. This is complicated!

I imagine there are lots of opinions out there but there should be some consensus about the basics among BF connoisseurs…

Best,
Daniel
 
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This drawing is what I consider “tang 101” or “Tangs for Dummies”

view


I dont have anything about edge / blade geometry.

Most of blade geometry comes down to thin or thick behind the edge, ease of maintenance and intended use.

Using and sharpening knives is the only way to gain this knowledge.
 
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baxtrom said:
Hi all,
Shouldn’t we have a list of pros and cons of different blade geometries pinned here? What’s the purpose of a clip point? Is drop point the best general purpose edc blade geometry? Is tanto hard to sharpen? What is belly good for and when is a straight edge preferable?

On top of that there are edge geometries too. Convex and hollow and sabre and scandi grinds et c. This is complicated!

I imagine there are lots of opinions out there but there should be some consensus about the basics among BF connoisseurs…

Best,
Daniel
Click to expand...
I like your idea; but there are probably too many variables to consider. It would be tough to fit it all in one place...
The blade steel alone is worth thousands of pages of fistfights!
There's no doubt that this factor would need discussion also...
 
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Tantos aren't hard to sharpen, but they can be tricky. I approach it like 2 different sharpening jobs. I do the main cutting edge fully, then the tip - being careful to maintain the defined transition between the 2 (kisaki it may be called). Depending on the knife, I'll sometimes sharpen the main edge in my KME and the tip on benchstones.
 
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Also, people make such a big deal out of “recurve” blades. They are not hard to sharpen either.

We all fall under that same age old rule….
“20 degrees for HARD USE” and with todays superior metallurgy I don’t believe that to be as true anymore. But it depends on the secondary bevel.
A hollow ground blade with a 17 degree or edge will slice all day long. And if it’s a decent steel with a decent heat treat it’s just about heaven. I doubt that would be my first choice in a big huge fixed blade intended for axe duty but, I don’t do a lot of that anyway.
You are going to get a ton of opinions on this. But do you can’t limit yourself. Try new angles and see what you like.
 
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There is a ton of different kinds, types and designs that span well over a century of cutlery. It isn’t a short subject to have a simple chart for identification and or application. To cover everything requires a lot of research and study.

The best way to start out is to get something that appeals to you and use it for a while then branch out from there with something different to try for comparison. What works for one person might not work for another. It’s a development of personal preference.
 
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A straight clip point is more pokey than a drop point and so it makes holes in things more easily but isn’t as durable if everything else is equal.

Trailing point is even more pokey and less durable, and a “straight spine” point is in between. Trailing points and straight back knives also have the benefit of a back-cut (mostly used in self-defense but useful for other things as well).

Tantos can have any of the above tip styles.

Belly is good for general purpose cutting and straight edges are better for fine tip work (fancy food cutting, leather, paper, crafting), and they also do well for smaller defensive knives.

There are many things to learn - just keep reading and your curiosity will teach you.
 
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Belly is also very helpful for use on cutting boards and extremely helpful for skinning.

Hollow v flat v convex grind is again a matter of cutting efficiency vs durability. Hollow is the most slicey, convex the most robust, and flat is in between.

Also there’s saber grind which is usually used either to increase durability over a full-flat or convex grind, or because it’s cheaper/faster to make.

Edges follow the same logic.

In essence, you just need to imagine how the blade looks in cross-section. Thinner cuts better, thicker is more durable.
 
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If we are purely looking at performance the lower the edge angle and thinner the knife the better the performance.

My grandfather was a roof supporter in mining back on the 1930s and his axe was below 20 degrees total and it was used hard for many years.

Seems lately axes are close to 50 degrees total.

That piece of titbit information aside here is a good general guide to advantages and disadvantages of knife grinds for

agrussell.com

Blade Grinds

The grind on a blade lends itself towards different advantages and disadvantages. Some are stronger, others are sharper, and some try to find a balance of both. Grinds: Flat, Hollow, Sabre, Chisel, Convex, American Tanto Dual, and Scandi.
agrussell.com agrussell.com
 
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While the types of grinds and geometry are important considering the kind of usage, that coupled with the kind of blade steel and heat treatment will also contribute to the overall performance. For instance I have a Buck 124 I use when camping, It’s a hollow grind in 420hc. It’s not as high edge retention as some other steels but it’s high on the toughness. I use it as a general purpose knife so I wanted a tough stainless since it is hollow ground. And I don’t use it in a rough manner like batoning where as if that was the case I would rather have a full flat grind in a tough steel.

There are extremes but for my particular way and usage I can select a middle of the road type of knife for camping and all purpose with a good steel. I have recently attained a few full tang fixed blades with full flat grind in 3v for the more rugged use when needed and can still be used as a multi purpose knife. I intend to try them out this summer.
 
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Depends on your usage. I like most designs. A knife with a lot of belly like a clip point is great for skinning animals and people, slicing apples, etc. A drop point is a jack of all trades shape. For my uses, a wharncliffe is most suitable--opening mail, packages, cutting up cardboard to fit in the recycle bin, etc. Basically an expensive box cutter lol.

The American tanto is good designed for stabbing, penetration. Not a fan personally as I am not a tactical operator nor do I operate tactically.

The Spyderco leaf shaped blade is probably (in my opinion) the best overall, do everything blade.
 
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Far too subjective.

Things like "best", and "what is xyz good for", and what is "preferable" are far to individualistic to determine, much less come to any consensus.

I use whatever works. I've used knives quite effectively for cutting stuff that other people on this forum have said are no good for cutting period.

I think it's impossible to categorize knife attributes and their value when everyone has their own individual needs and standards.

Some people want specific attributes for specific purposes, and other people will make do with whatever is sharp, and even if it isn't the ideal choice, they make it work for them.
 
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