Blade angles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Adam Fischer

Adam Fischer

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
374
so anyone know offhand the factory angle of the forsaken gemini’s and steel hearts?

Save me the trial and error with a sharpie :)

Thanks!
 
Wow crap!

I just got a wicked edge and wanted to start putting some mirror edges on my whole collection...better not make plans for the weekend...:mad:
 
Hahah. Sorry man. I stopped using my Spyderco sharpmaker and started using double sided whetstone and strops. Never had sharper knives.
 
Adam Fischer said:
Wow crap!

I just got a wicked edge and wanted to start putting some mirror edges on my whole collection...better not make plans for the weekend...:mad:
Click to expand...
I get a nice enough polish with just a strop then ya wont have to reset the wicked edge my rmd was a lil toothy took a bit but got it mirrorish just a thought
 
Ironkid883 said:
I get a nice enough polish with just a strop then ya wont have to reset the wicked edge my rmd was a lil toothy took a bit but got it mirrorish just a thought
Click to expand...

I often just strop mine now too. Unless the edge is toothy as you note, and then I put on a stone.
 
All valid, I have a strop setup and sadly couldn’t get an edge worth a damn onto anything as I lack either a steady hand or straight vision so....a grand later and I’m managing to get the job done...guess I’m heading to Costco for a box of sharpies :)
 
Cobalt said:
You could hand grind your own angle on it and continue on with it from there.
Click to expand...

I've done this. Takes a LOT of time and effort. Can produce a ridiculously sharp edge. Or you can go the route of a belt sander and use progressively finer grit sandpaper then strop band. Which is probably the next direction I will go with sharpening ideas as I'm warming up to zero grind convex edges.

My heavy users have set edges right now so I can fix edge issues using a guided system, but as I've started to move away from the guided system to stones, I've relegated the guided system to those times when ultimate sharpness is more important than edge durability. I will say that convex edges seem to have less drag when cutting, but I'm not yet able to achieve the same sharpness when producing a convex edge as I can with the guided system. That will change though.
 
Adam Fischer said:
Wow crap!

I just got a wicked edge and wanted to start putting some mirror edges on my whole collection...better not make plans for the weekend...:mad:
Click to expand...
I bought the Ultra Coarse (50/80) stones to reprofile my Busses. I'm probably going with a 20° angle as measured by an angle cube.
 
With a caliper you can measure the length of your edge. This should be the same for both sides( A and C). Then you can measure the thickness of the base of the edge( B). Once you have done that you have all three sides of a triangle. Angle B is the included angle. Cut in half it is DPS.
13406413_f520.jpg


Here is the calculator to use:

https://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1223019182
 
Freehand all the way. Once your blades are set to your sharpening style, you never have an issue. I use a 600 grit diamond stone to hone if it's really dull. Followed by a touch up on a butchers steel. Occaisionally I'll strop, but I've found if the edge is really polished ie: fine, the the quicker it is to dull. For general cutting tasks, and minutley rough edge works way better, and lasts longer.
 
When freehand sharpening measure the angles as above. I have often taken the edge way thinner than what I thought it was. It is especially hard to notice on a flat ground blade.
 
Adam Fischer said:
Wow crap!
I just got a wicked edge and wanted to start putting some mirror edges on my whole collection...better not make plans for the weekend...:mad:
Click to expand...

Since you have a WE, which is a truly fantastic system, I highly suggest you reprofile and optimize the edge for your own preferences based on how you will use the knife. I personally find 19 degrees to be the sweet spot for my medium to larg sized Busse's. After that it is very easy to maintain the edge you like create. I reprofiled several medium to large Busse's on my WE and the results were outstanding. It does take a lot of time though to do the initial reprofiling.

RobStanley said:
Freehand all the way. Once your blades are set to your sharpening style, you never have an issue. I use a 600 grit diamond stone to hone if it's really dull. Followed by a touch up on a butchers steel. Occaisionally I'll strop, but I've found if the edge is really polished ie: fine, the the quicker it is to dull. For general cutting tasks, and minutley rough edge works way better, and lasts longer.
Click to expand...

Agree completely about the polished edge not lasting as long. I definitely also prefer a toothy edge on my harder use knives / choppers. That being said I don't really agree about freehand. Freehand can of course yield results as good as using any sharpening system out there; however, the amount of practice and skill it takes to get really good at it, and maintain that degree of precision, is very difficult for most people to achieve (by most people I'm really referring to myself, haha). I have seen so many people really mess up their knives by attempting to sharpen them freehand it has also left a bad taste in my mouth. I sharpen a lot of knives but do not have good freehand skills, at least not good enough for me to trust trying on my expensive knives where I want a high degree of precision. That is why I like systems like the WE and now my AMK-75, because the results are excellent and easily reproducible to those with relatively low sharpening skill like myself.
 
Did my ASH-2 at 20 degrees, probably a bit much and would probably go back to 25 if i could. BUT 20 degrees will cut like a Sum-Bitch, just ask the ER Doctor who glued me back together!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top