Blade care questions. (the search function is broke).

Fireshaker

Fireshaker

Joined
Jun 29, 2002
Messages
337
Yes, I did try to run a search. No, it didn't work. Everything I tried came up with a error. *shrug*.

I'll make it short and sweet.

What do I need to keep my blade in top condition? Im talkig cleaning, polishing, and care.

When I get it, what do I do with it? How many times should I apply? etc...

Thanks!
 
You have to narrow down your search. Simple works like knife cleaning in the search bogs down the server
 
Well since it was obviously too much trouble for people to post an answer, I'll try. :rolleyes:

Basically, a good quality oil or like will do you just fine.

I had a bad experience with my new Strider Tactical GB developing a small rust spot even with FP-10 (a quality CLP) applied, so I'm trying Eezox.

I've done some research and it seems to be by far the best rust inhibitor. It also dries on the blade leaving no residue and making it more difficult to wear off than most all other oils and lubricants.

It is also pretty highly acclaimed as a cleaner and lubricant, in addition to a rust preventor.

That's what I'd use. Oh, and frequency of application depends on your use. If you use it, say, frequently in or around water, you'd want to wipe it down with something at LEAST once a day or more often, but it depends on a few factors.
 
Well, I have an AUS8A blade, so I don't think rust is a problem. (Or hope not).

The only thing Im noticing is smudge marks and the like from finger prints. (I try not to touch the blade, but I must on accident) I don't want any kind of residue on my blade and would prefer a way to "cleanse" the blade after every day of use and touching. Something that will restore the shine and clean any harmfull grease and residue off the knife.

This knife doesn't see much hard utility use, so I doubt I'll have to worry about rust. I just want a clean, sharp shine that will last through the day.



And while we're on the topic, whats everyone put in the knife to keep the blade action nice and smooth?



P.S. Them not answering my question is ok with me. It is a rather newbie question, I'll admit, but we all have to learn. I'll try narrowing my search. (Thanks TBG)
 
Sorry I didn't answer your original question. I am nodding out here and there at 3am :) I just wanted to let you know how to get all of your answers in the "Master Blade Forums Database" :)
 
NP TBG. I know you're a cool person. ;)

Im trying to narrow it down, but its proving to be a challenge!

I've narrowed it to "Blade care, cleaning, polishing" and still have the "Cannot display this page"! GRR!!
 
Human oils are acidic and will etch any blade if given the chance. Carbon steels will rust readily within a 12-24 hours after being handled. Stainless steels will give you a bit more time.

For cleaning and sealing the blade you can use Flitz metal polish. It is a very fine abrasive that also coats the blade like a coat of wax. Flitz is designed as an affective rust remover and inhibiter and will need to be reapplyed after each heavy use or every month seeing light use. Bear in mind, repeated applications will eventually wear away any blade coating. Flitz is completely non-toxic.

For rust prevention that only lasts about a week, you can use a Sentry Tough Cloth. The cloth is doused in a mineral oil concoction that is quite effective, is toxic and wears off quickly.

For long term storage, most people apply oil (3-in-one, Gun Oil, Motor Oil, etc) about once a month. Don't use olive oil or WD-40.

There are some that advocate the use of petroleum gelly (Vasoline) as a long term rust inhibiter coating.

The blade finish will determine which method will be more appropriate.

For instance, highly polished blades have no pores to retain oil, thus no amount of oil, short of submerging the knife in oil, will be effective in preventing rust. Here Flitz and petroleum gelly will be effective methods for long term storage.

Bead Blasted finish blades will eventually be worn smooth by an abrasive like Flitz. It's like sanding with a very high grit abrasive. However, the pores in the bead blast will hang on to oils readily so applying Sentry Cloth and using Oil for long term storage will work quite well. The same is true for satin finishes.
 
this is one of those questions that would be great in a FAQ.

Sundsvall, Great answer there. I've been curious about preserving different types of blades, and most answers don't seem to address the issue.

If we could assemble a large amount of info on this topic, meaning a variety of opinions covering all aspects, i think it would make an awesome "Blade Maintenance FAQ" which would be extremely usefull as a sticky.

someone may wanna slap me for this, i have no idea...
but i've been using Slick 50 brand "One Lube" on everything, for years.

it is NOT ingestible, tho trace amounts i would'nt worry about personally. basicly it's a PTFE lubricant, penetrator, and rust inhibitor. I've used this on everything from doors, to hair clippers, to tools, to office chairs, and it's great stuff... seems to last a LONG time as a lube, like in a car door in the Northeast it takes one shot per year. I got a 2.3 Fl.Oz can about 5 years ago and it's still about full :D

it's said to be non-staining, but i'm really not sure what it'd do on an epoxy coating. For a cheap knife, no doubt... for a pricey knife, i might think twice.
 
No problem. Glad to contribute.

Some collectors are pretty serious about their investments. They coat their blades with vasoline and then store them in vacum sealed food saver bags.
 
^^ and a safety deposit box ^^

i can understand that level of care/caution, and if i had such an investment item, i'm certain i'd do the same. but i really don't forsee myself having anything worth more than "tossed in the drawer" status anytime soon.

i'm curious to hear other opinions on the Slick 50 stuff :D

also, i have a cheap "stainless" blade, 420 or 440 i think, that has been harmed with battery acid :rolleyes: would you think Flitz might get that out? it looks like stains, but i've honestly never seen anything like it. the acid basicly ran all over swedge side turning the steel a darker color. shame as it was a cool knife but now looks like ass :(
 
I doubt flitz would do anything but coat the discoloration in.

You might as well gun-blue or marine gelly coat the knife and blend the stain in with a rust proofing coat.
 
very interesting...

i'm not afraid to show my ignorance, so here goes...

is blue-ing, not sure how the term is spelled, something i can do at home? i'm not familiar with how it's done at all.

is "marine gelly" the same as Naval Jelly? <-- the stuff used to get rust spots outta concrete etc... it really works great on rust, no idea what it'll do to the blade, i may have already tried it also but i can't recall.


i'm very interested in blue-ing. that said, this knife isn't worth any money, so i would'nt want to invest much into it, but if the process is affordable, i may have other uses for it!

and thanks for the suggestions and info, very much appreciated :)
 
Good thread.

I recently moved my modest collection from gun locker to fire safe. What a mistake. I checked my knives yesterday and found small amounts of rust on some. I was able to remove most of the rust, then coated the knives with a product called Fluid Film.
http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/home.htm
I repacked my blades and moved them back into the gun locker since it is better ventilated.
Most of my users get cleaned out with compressed air and lubed with Tri-Flow.
Anyhoo....watch out for rust!
 
This is what I do,

Basic blade care:

Keep it clean.
Keep it dry.
Keep it sharp.

On non-stainless steels coat with light oil (usually mineral oil beacuse it´s not toxic).

Natural handle materials may require special care:

Wood.- an ocassional rub with sweet almond oil.
Bone and stag.- a yearly light rub with mineral oil.
Leather.- ocassionally some leather conditioner (I use castor oil or neats foot oil).

For folders an occasional drop of oil in the pivots.

Don´t store knives in leather sheaths since the leather conditioners may affect them.

About blueing, I have used a home gun blue kit in several of my non-stainless, knives, they look nice and it´s easy to do, just follow the instructions. As far as I know this blueing is much less effective than professional blueing, probably more of a coating instead of a true chemical reaction on the metal surface. the real thing is very complicated to do at home.

Many people (I´ve done it) will force a non-stainless blade to get a patina, using vinegar, lemon juice, slicing apples and not cleaning for a while, etc. This gives some protection to the blade preventing further rusting. Some people feel that it gives some character or nice looks to the blade. If over done it will cause pitting.
 
BTW: I didn't mean any offense to any of the first posters who told the initial poster to do a search. I simply think its a bit rude and discourages newbies from asking questions.

:)

Carry on.
 
Originally posted by Gonzo_Beyondo
very interesting...

i'm not afraid to show my ignorance, so here goes...

is blue-ing, not sure how the term is spelled, something i can do at home? i'm not familiar with how it's done at all.

is "marine gelly" the same as Naval Jelly? <-- the stuff used to get rust spots outta concrete etc... it really works great on rust, no idea what it'll do to the blade, i may have already tried it also but i can't recall.


i'm very interested in blue-ing. that said, this knife isn't worth any money, so i would'nt want to invest much into it, but if the process is affordable, i may have other uses for it!

and thanks for the suggestions and info, very much appreciated :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, home gun bluing and naval gelly is cheap and easy to do. You can buy this stuff in most hardware stores. I think they work by causing a chemical reaction on the surface much like a patina from acids as mentioned above.

I did it to some inexpensive user knives and it keep it rust free for about a decade with no maintenance. So it will work. Looked really ugly and uneven though. Splotchy. Since your knife has already been scorched by battery acid, I doubt that it should be a point of interest.
 
Blow the dust out of your knife with compressed air. If you need it really clean, clean your knife in hot soapy water. Rinse well. Dry well. Use paper to clean the small spaces (e.g. around pivot) to get at all the water.

Honing oil is a good rust inhibitor, and if you sharpen often, it gets applied through sharpening.

Flitz metal polish will take off surface dirt and light rust quite well. High grit sand paper or emory paper will take out scratches.

Rennisance Wax is a good protectant that works on leather, wood, bone and steel. It is highly recommended by many knifemakers. You can get it in most good woodworking stores. Brass will tarnish even though waxed with Ren. Wax, so it's not as great as some believe.

The guy at the North American Edge Weapons Museum in Intercourse PA protects all his knives and swords with a liberal coating of Butcher brand bowling alley wax. He's got thousands of knives and they are in great shape. His brass is shiny.

Personally, I think wax wears a little quicker than oil for using knives.

I hate the Tuf Glide and Sentry products for rust inhibition. I think they smell. The Sentry cloth did not work for me as a rust inhibitor, oil worked better, and Sentry cloth leaves a hazy film on the blade.

However, Tuf Glide is a good waxy lubricant. Milltec is a good oil, you can get a free sample bottle from their website that will last for hundreds of knives. Triflow is also great and used to be recommended by Benchmade (they recommend Milltec now). Triflow will not only lube but clean out your knife.

My pet peeve are knife manufacturers, that won't recommend a lubricant, like Spyderco, but unlike Buck (white lightening) or Benchmade (milltec).
 
Also be very careful to distinguish between (and use appropriately) lubricants, cleaners, waxes, and rust preventors.

For example, militec-1 is a good lubricant, but does not clean at all and definitely doesn't protect against rust.

I'd say for 99% of people and knives you will be just fine with Breakfree CLP or Eezox.

SeeThis Thread Here for the picture showing how well Eezox works. :eek:

Note: Breakfree and Eezox are both CLP's; Clean, Lube, Protect, which means that you can use them for all three purposes on blades and guns.
 
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