Blade centering

Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
474
Is there any way to fix a blade that isn't centered? The pivot screw has no change in the centering. The knife is not a kershaw by the way it is a Bradley alias 1 both sides of handle are ti it has typical I ternal set up scale bushing blade bushing lock side. I was hoping there was a way to find this myself without sending it in.
 
Can u explain knotty

1. Wedge a folded piece of paper between the blade and the liner the blade favors.
2. Loosen all the screws
3. starting at the bottom most body screw
4. tighten it a little then move on to then next screw until you get to the pivot
5. Do this until all the screws are tight and have the same amount of tension
6. Remove the piece of paper and adjust the pivot so it flips well and you should be good!

The screws all having equal tension is very very important it can affect the action of a knife drastically.....
 
Awesome never thought of that will give that a try here in about 20 minutes when I get done with the dishes
 
Awesome never thought of that will give that a try here in about 20 minutes when I get done with the dishes
I hate doing the dishes. Especially when people don't clean their plates off and there's crusty leftovers on it. :barf:
 
Its a fair trade off for me the wife does the laundry I do the dishes and trash.
 
Sounds like a good idea! I'll have to give that a try the next time I have a problem. My Benchmade was off center and when it came back from warranty service it was perfectly centered. I had tried messing around with it before I sent it in with no luck. Maybe their techs use this "paper method". :D
 
Another option is to loosen all of the screws holding the frame sides together as well as the pivot screw. You want to be able to move the sides just a bit. The idea is that the knife was a bit "off" or slightly crooked when it was tightened down and if you loosen the screws and the pivot, then get the blade snugged down so it doesn't move, and finally, tighten the frame screws, everything will lay in its intended position. Then you can back off on the pivot screw until you get the action where you want it.

That has worked once or twice for me with Spydercos and a BM 525 (I think?) Does't work all the time because that's not always the issue. Worth a try, though, if the paper trick doesn't work. Sometimes, the blade is centered and you're looking at a bad grind out toward the tip. Nothing's gonna help that.
 
Here is what I do:
1. Open blade to 90 degrees and tighten pivot so that it is really tight.

2. Close the blade and loosen frame screws so they aren’t tight, but still holding the frame together.

3. While the blade is still in the closed position, pull blade towards the side you want the blade to move. In my case, I pulled the blade toward the liner/scale.

4. While pulling blade, tighten the frame screws.

5. Loosen the pivot and adjust it to the desired tension.
 
Another option is to loosen all of the screws holding the frame sides together as well as the pivot screw. You want to be able to move the sides just a bit. The idea is that the knife was a bit "off" or slightly crooked when it was tightened down and if you loosen the screws and the pivot, then get the blade snugged down so it doesn't move, and finally, tighten the frame screws, everything will lay in its intended position. Then you can back off on the pivot screw until you get the action where you want it.

That has worked once or twice for me with Spydercos and a BM 525 (I think?) Does't work all the time because that's not always the issue. Worth a try, though, if the paper trick doesn't work. Sometimes, the blade is centered and you're looking at a bad grind out toward the tip. Nothing's gonna help that.

*face palm* haha my bad, i just re read what I said and I realize it sounds like your not supposed to loosen the pivot (you are supposed to.....) just thought I'd get that out of the way!
 
Hello. I a long time knife collector but first time participant to the forum. It's great to be here. Anyway, I have been looking for a way to straighten out two wayward CRKT's. I tried both of these methods a few minutes ago and all I succeeded in doing was putting a slight twist in my T6 tip. I bought both of these knives in a weak moment and I guess I will either have to live with their off-centered blades, take a hammer to them or give them away. I know! White elephant gifts at a Christmas party!
 
well the knife is off to benchmade customer service they said they could fix it up so we will see how i like their service versus kershaw service
 
I'm assuming that you are talking about blade centering when the knife is closed.

I had a similar problem with one of my blurs. The blade leaned to one side, which actually made it a little tougher to open and it would scuff against the liner as it closed. After taking it apart and back together nearly a dozen times; trying out the paper trick and anything else I could think of, I finally realized what the problem was. The liner-lock bar was simply going too far inward, actually pushing the blade into the other direction. This is what made opening the blade tougher, since the little bump that helps rotate the blade and also lock it in place was being pushed deep into the indent.

So what I did is I opened it up one last time, bent the lock bar ever so slightly in the other direction until it kept a few millimeters that way. Now the Blur opens up fast and closes clean, and sits in the very center of the handle when closed! Problem solved! The only catch is that after taking apart the knife and putting it back together so many times, all the loc-tite seems to go away so I ordered some more to keep the pivot screw from loosening itself. Hope this helps somebody else!
 
I'm assuming that you are talking about blade centering when the knife is closed.

I had a similar problem with one of my blurs. The blade leaned to one side, which actually made it a little tougher to open and it would scuff against the liner as it closed. After taking it apart and back together nearly a dozen times; trying out the paper trick and anything else I could think of, I finally realized what the problem was. The liner-lock bar was simply going too far inward, actually pushing the blade into the other direction. This is what made opening the blade tougher, since the little bump that helps rotate the blade and also lock it in place was being pushed deep into the indent.

So what I did is I opened it up one last time, bent the lock bar ever so slightly in the other direction until it kept a few millimeters that way. Now the Blur opens up fast and closes clean, and sits in the very center of the handle when closed! Problem solved! The only catch is that after taking apart the knife and putting it back together so many times, all the loc-tite seems to go away so I ordered some more to keep the pivot screw from loosening itself. Hope this helps somebody else!

I took your advice and took two of my offending knives apart and tweaked the liner-lock bar. In both cases I achieved good enough results that I am no longer going to throw both of them in a nearby pond or give them to my worst enemy. By the way, both knives are Chinese made flippers made by quality companies who should invest more effort in their QC departments. With each, they either flipped and the blade road the liner opposite the liner-lock bar or had centered but frozen blades.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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