Blade cleaning?

D

drjones

Joined
Sep 6, 2000
Messages
913
Hi. When I got my new Extrema Ratio the other day, the edge was covered with an extremely sticky gummy substance, I think from the sheath. I tried rubbing it off with a damp cloth, and other than cut my thumb, I didn't do much good.

Then, I tried using a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol. Is rubbing alcohol harmful to blade steel at all? It didn't seem to do any harm to the finish. I rinsed and wiped the blade afterward. The only harm done was to my index and middle fingers, which I also managed to cut. That blade is TOO sharp! :rolleyes:

There is STILL some of that crap left on my blade, though. Any other suggestions of what I can use? I don't want to buy anything...

Should I just keep going with the rubbing alcohol? It worked fairly well.

Thanks
Drjones
 
Originally posted by drjones
Hi. When I got my new Extrema Ratio the other day, the edge was covered with an extremely sticky gummy substance, I think from the sheath. I tried rubbing it off with a damp cloth, and other than cut my thumb, I didn't do much good.

Then, I tried using a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol. Is rubbing alcohol harmful to blade steel at all? It didn't seem to do any harm to the finish. I rinsed and wiped the blade afterward.

There is STILL some of that crap left on my blade, though. Any other suggestions of what I can use? I don't want to buy anything...

Should I just keep going with the rubbing alcohol? It worked fairly well.

Thanks
Drjones
Click to expand...
The alcohol shouldn't harm the blade steel, but then again I've never tried it. Lighter fluid usually works pretty good at getting rid of gummy stuff--again, though, I've never tried it. Not that I wouldn't try either of those, just never had a reason to. I usually use Flitz metal polish to clean my blades.
 
I have found WD-40 will sometimes work getting goo off of a blade. Bug and tar remover that you use on a car will sometimes work also.
 
Sounds like a job for Breakfree. Actually, just about any oil based lubricant should work. . .

Of course, you'll probably have to work it a little (with fingers). And when working the fingers. . .don't throw caution to the wind. ;)
 
this might sound weird, but a guy at MOD told me once to use a pencil rubber to clean up a beadblasted blade (arm yourself with patience), and worked EXTREMELY well on all other blades I had to clean.
then just oil it a bit and that's it :-)

Nestor
 
Acetone (AKA Nail polish remover) is usually a good solvent to remove any sort of stubborn, adhesive type residue, though i have to admit, i havent tried it on a knife, but i cant imagine it would hurt the blade as long as you thoroughly rinsed it with fresh water afterwards. But, remember, my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. :)
 
There's no need to rinse acetone off. It'll evaporate by itself faster than you can get the water running anyway.

Many nail polish removers contain addatives to "moisturize" or "condition" fingernails. I don't know if you want your blade moisturized or conditioned. You can get straight acetone in the paint department at hardware/home center type stores. (Oh, and you can save money by slipping in at night and refilling the wife's $7.50/8oz. bottle of nail polish remover from the $7.50/gallon bottle of acetone you got at the hardware store. But don't fill it all the way or she'll notice. Just add maybe an oz. and let her use that much before you do it again. Try to keep the bottle about half full.) Acetone is a strong solvent though. Be carefull not to get it on fine handle materials, wood, bone, leather, etc.

Obviously, any solvent such as acetone will attack paint, ink markings, or silk screened markings on knife blades. So, be carefull about that.

Lighter fluid is a common solvent for tape residue and other "sticky gooey" stuff. Any oil including WD-40 is another great choice. (WD-40: No other single product does so many things poorly. It's the one spray can to have when you're having only one spray can.)

Alcohol is a good choice too. Again, it can attack some paints, ink markings, and silk screened markings and I'd suggest keeping it off of delicate handle inserts. Remember that the common alcohol we buy at the pharmacy is, at best about 90% alcohol and usually more like 70%. The problem here is simply that it naturally absorbs water from the air. If you want to keep it pure, you have to use elaborate packaging. But, what this does mean is that after the 70% alcohol evaporates, 30% water is left behind. Water can, if not dried out, lead to rust. Be especially careful about drying out joints on folders.
 
I spent quite a few years working with FAA maintenance inspectors writing manuals for them. Being somewhat mechanically inclined I used to spend a lot of time talking with the inspectors (the reason I don't fly anymore) and one of the things that they used to harp on was that WD-40 is mildly abarasive. Now for most items thats no real big deal, but there is no way that I'd use WD-40 on a knife, especially with the superfine tolerances on high-end and custom folders.
 
Thanks guys!

Specifically, Nestor. Tried the eraser, and worked like magic!!! Now the edge of my blade is all shiny like it should be!!!

(The eraser isn't in such good shape, though...:rolleyes: :p )

drjones
 
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