Blade Grinding Direction

W

waredbear

Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
174
I've read books and web site tutorials about forming the fnife blade and I'm sort of confused. They say to start off with say a 60 grit to move metal., The next smaller grit is used at a 90° angle to the first to remove the gashes left by the first grid. The next smaller grit is done at the first angle which is 90° from the second grinding...and so on and so on until you are finished. Is this right or not?
Second question is how do you grind at a 90° angle from the first (which would be down the length of the blade) and not mess up the pummel? Or can you not do this if you have a defined edge at the pummel? Does this procedure depend on the shape of the blade?
Please set me straight.

Reid Allen
 
Reid, what you're describing sounds like a common hand-finishing method, not a method for stock removal. I think that most makers you'll find will grind their primary bevels in a single direction.
-Mark
 
I can understand that. I must have gotten into the reading so much that I skipped the brain function of understanding this was the finish work. Seems like I remember now (too late) that it was talking about putting a mirror image on the blade. Thanks Polish Avenger for setting me straight.

Reid Allen
 
And that method of hand finishing will only work with flat ground blades, not hollow ground, so it's a very narrow sector of knife finishing.

I grind edge up only, and you sometimes have to change the angle of the blade in relation to the contact wheel or platen to achieve a desired effect in a particular grind for a particular blade shape.
 
Reid,
The reasoning behind changing direction when you switch grits; it gives you a better view of the previous grit pattern and makes it easier for you to see any imperfections in your earlier sanding. You will end up in the same place no matter which direction you sand. Applying a coat of magic marker between grits will also give you a good idea of your progress. When you have completed the last of the sanding, you can use the edge of a piece of 10oz leather to burnish the blade surface. Burnishing should be; down the length of the blade. This will smooth out those very small blems in the blade surface. This works well on th spine of the blade also.
Fred
 
i start with 40 grit belt and then jump to 120. i then hand finish starting with 220 and go up to 600.
 
The thanks go to Mr. Hull, Rowe and JT for the expansion of the topic. I'm a wet-behind-the-ears noob compared to these guys. It's been my experience so far that there are soooo many different methods and principles that have been written or talked about that it's hard to even START the knifemaking process because of the 'wall-o'-confusion' the maker walks smack into. I suppose that goes away (maybe) when you settle on a basic series of operations, stick with them, master them and make a whole lotta knives. Good luck with your project!
-Mark
 
Yup, get down and dirty and ask the questions you come across when you are working your knife.
If you are hand finishing you will find it easier to switch directions but you can get the job done just as good sanding only one direction.
 
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