Blade Grinding Question???

EricElson

EricElson

Joined
Apr 9, 2000
Messages
169

Hello
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Well more specifically grinding the blade of a Fillet Knife. The stock I'm using is 1/16" 440-c,
I've been practicing on a scrap piece of steel and have been getting mildly frustrated.
I cant seem to keep the grinds even.

I was wondering if I should use a thicker piece of steel as a support for the thin blade?

Any help would be greatly appriciated,
thanks in Advance

Eric
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i don't grind skinny knives like fillet knives, but backing it with thick steel makes sense to me. try it out, on scrap first. are you doing flat grinds? or hallow?
 
Eric, that is a very difficult size steel to grind. It's not really thick enough to let you get into a groove, and there is no leaway for matching any uneveness. I'm not sure the backing will help, but I honestly don't know. You may just have to go very slow and with a soft touch.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
In David Boye's book he grinds fillet blades by putting the stock support on the grinder and sticking the blade lengthwise between the wheel and support and twisting the edge towards the wheel and pulling the blade upwards.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Eric about the only way to grind that thickness is to rough bevel both sides back about 3/8" then screw the blade to a 2 X 4 backing and go at it length wise to even out the grinds.. The 2X4 will support the blade enough to finish the grind. The grind will be slightly convex but at this thickness it doesn't matter.

Use the 2 X 4 also when you are finishing the blade after heat treat. Thest thin blades can be killers with out a good solid backing material.



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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
I've had best results using a disc sander to grind thin blades. and yes I do use a backing plate (usually a paint stick) but only for roughing my grind in with 60 grit and then I just use a wide push stick and move it up and down the length of the blade as I grind where necessary. If done right this method is a breeze to satin finnish by hand after grinding . Just use silicon carbide paper, don't push to hard and quench with water frequently.
Hope this helps !

Aloha!!! Ken Onion
 
Eric

Just down the road from you in Port Franks is one of the best knife makers I know - Jim Downie. He makes beautiful fillet knives and he is very good about sharing his knowledge. He also uses a fixture for safe buffing that just might be the ticket to your thin blade grinding problem.



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
Like Mr. Hossom mentioned, you don't leave yourself much room for creativity (fka error) with .062" stock. Stick to it with patience and practice!

You may want to grind them "upside down," that is, with the cutting edge up so that you can see what you are grinding, rather than what you just ground. I think the paint mixing-stick with a disc-sander is probably the best approach.

You will pick it up in time.

[This message has been edited by samwereb (edited 06-29-2000).]

[This message has been edited by samwereb (edited 06-29-2000).]

[This message has been edited by samwereb (edited 06-30-2000).]
 
you definitely need a backing when grinding thin stock...up to and including .125", because it wants to bend around the wheel/platen or whatever you are grinding with.....I have made a few knives out of stock that thin...and the thing that works best, without some sort of backing, is to flat grind the knife with the tip pointing at the floor....go slow, check it often, and be careful

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
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