Blade Masters! Tempering Help!

Burchtree

Burchtree

KnifeMaker & Moderator
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Okay, it's time to do some tempering. I've got a fairly high carbon tool steel that I've made tanto out of. It's time to do some tempering, and I need some info if possible. I don't have any fancy equipment, and I need the MacGyver/poorman solution to tempering. Any suggestions? I appreciate the help.
 
Get a used toaster oven and at least one new oven thermometer. Total cost about $7-8. You can cut a hole in the side of the oven if your knife is too long to fit all the way in by itself and stick part of the tang out. <-- All info shamelessly ripped from other more qualified makers.

WS
 
I wouldn't think a toaster oven would get hot enough to temper the blade (what the hell do I know though?). In case this helps, the blade is about 14 inches long and 1/4-inch thick.
 
Here's the problem, we're missing the differentiation between heat treat and temper, it seems to me. A kitchen oven or toaster oven will get hot enough to temper. What it won't do is get hot enough to heat treat.
 
I don't think you mean temper. Do you mean you want to harden the blade and then temper it?

If that is the case you will need to set up some kind of forge and blower system. Since you expressed the desire to do it on the cheap check out this set up that Tai Goo came up with. He posted it at the NT Outpost over on CKD. Try this link:

http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10279

Do a search on hardening steel on this forum and you will finds loads of info. We'll need more specific information on what kind of steel you are using to help you out more.
 
I believe that's what I mean. I'm pretty wet behind the ears on this stuff. I've got a chunk of tool steel that I've ground into a blade. Now I need to make it into a usuable knife. I'm not certain of the specific type of steel it is, but I bought it when I was a kid, and the gentleman sold it as a knife making piece of steel. It blackens up, and rust fairly easily, so I know it's got a some carbon in it. But that's all I can tell you about it.

I like that Forgebeque. Fortunately, I've got one of those in my backyard tha the previous owners left when I bought my house. I'm sure the girlfriend wouldn't mind me borrowing her hair-dryer either. :D

Check out this link: Is this pretty much what I need to do to it? Knifemaking Lesson 201
 
Just a suggestion, for what it is worth.

You might want to contact some of your local heat treaters. The ones here in MI will charge a min fee of $25 to $30 for a heat treat and temper. They should know how to do D2, just tell them what HRC you want it to end up at. They might even be willing to do an edge quench for ya. I sourced out my dies for my power hammer to a HT Shop because they were made out of S7 and I found it easier to have the pros do it than try it myself. They did the HT and double draw on two sets of dies for $30.

If you plan on making more knives, I would set up a one brick forge with a blow torch (the plans are out there somewhere). I am not up on D2 so I don't know if it is an oil quench steel or not. If it is, you could use a 50/50 mix of ATF and 10W30 for your quench oil. That is what I use on my 15N20/C1095 damascus steel and they end up right around 60 HRC after temper.

Alot of things can wrong when heat treating, especially if you have never done it before. I am pretty new also and I am still working on the correct method. I am pretty sure most makers will agree that the HT and temper is the most crital step in making quality knives.

Hope this helps.
 
What you seek to do is not an easy task, seldom done "just right" the first time. You can get some basics at this link:
http://www.customknifedirectory.com/CKD_TutorialFrameset.htm?CKD_Tutorials.htm~tmain

Check especially the HT tutorial by Max Burnett.

It will be difficult for you to send this knife out to a standard HT place because you don't know the type of steel. Rust, BTW, has nothing to do with the carbon, per se, and does not necessarily indicate much about the steel. Some information may be obtained by spark patterns on a stone wheel, but that isn't very definitive either, without a heckuva lot of experience:
http://www.ohiosteel.org/Student_Educators/Virtual Classroom/spark_chart.pdf

You will have to do your best to harden it by quenching by heating to non-magnetic and quenching in warm oil (120-140F). After that, place in the oven at about 350F for an hour. Test the edge with a new triangular file. If it just barely bites, ie, leaves a mark without digging, it may be ok. If the file just skates, raise the oven temp 25 degrees and temper again.

Probability of success is low but it'll help you learn. I recommend if you make another blade, to be sure of what steel you're using. Heat treating blades of unknown composition is what I consider a more advanced skill.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
I appreciate the help. I'm pretty sure it's a tool steel of sorts. Judging by the spark chart, and how it looks (it's got that ol' timer blackened look to it). I'm going to try my best and see what happens. If it doesn't work, I'll try it again on another one.

By the way, what is the easiest steel to work with as a beginner?

I appreciate everyone's help. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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