Blade quenching liquid question

A

amw308

Joined
Jun 20, 2003
Messages
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I have watched a couple of videos on forging, and i was just wondering why a liquid like transmission fluid would be better for hardening than just water.
 
Oils of any kind are a slower quench medium than water. Most modern steels have been alloyed with various elements like manganese to promote deeper and more reliable hardening. Water is often a too quick and violent quench for these steels often causing them to crack.
 
Liquid quenchants are measured in "H" values and the scale is similar to specific gravity, in that it is all relative to water with water having the base value of 1. Brine has from 2-5 in "H" value depending upon the agititation rate. Oil can be from .25 to 1 depending upon the formulation and agitation.

Water has higher conduction and convection rates so yes it does indeed cool faster, but another big dissadvantage is the vapor jacket. The vapor point of most oils is above 350F., water is only 212F. Water forms a huge vapor jacket very quickly and this jacket breaks down much more violently. Quick cooling is not as bad as the vapor causing uneven cooling and thus distortion.

Transmission fluid or hydraulic fluid make better quenchants than other oils because they are not strictly lubricants, they are also designed to cool things.
 
Kevin... I wonder what the main ingredient in Brownells Tough Quench is? It smells familar but I cant place it. Also where would it be on the H scale?
 
Bruce, I'd be willing to bet that the starting point for most commercial quenchants would be some form of mineral oil. It would be ineresting find out if anyone knows.
 
cool :)
Carcenogenicity Indicators
NTP: NO
IARC: NO
OSHA: NO

First Aid:
INHAL: REMOVE TO SOURCE OF FRESH AIR. SKIN: WASH WITH SOAP AND WATER. EYE: FLUSH WITH WATER FOR AT LEAST 15 MIN, CONSULT PHYSICIAN. INGEST: DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, CONSULT PHYSICIAN. PRODUCT IS MAINLY MINERAL OIL.

idea's all ready :D
 
yeah it will keep us old phart's regular too. :D :D :D

Imagine the look on somebodies face when you quench a blade and then take a shot out of the quench tank. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Bruce Bump said:
Kevin... I wonder what the main ingredient in Brownells Tough Quench is? It smells familar but I cant place it. Also where would it be on the H scale?
Click to expand...


I have not used the Brownells but I have heard good things about it. To my knowledge Guy is correct that most quench oils incorporate mineral based oils and are then fine tuned from there. I have some Park "quench Accelerator" that is used to rejuvenate AAA when it ages, and it utilizes a mineral oils.

The "H" scale is used to refference the different categories- Water, Brine, Hydroxide, Oil, salts etc... Within those categories the ball test speed would probably be used to determine thermal extraction rates and comparisons.
 
Sweany said:
yeah it will keep us old phart's regular too. :D :D :D

Imagine the look on somebodies face when you quench a blade and then take a shot out of the quench tank. :eek: :eek: :eek:
Click to expand...
:D
you wouldn't take it cold would you :D
 
The trick is to find an oil that is sppropriate for the steel and system you are using. Brownll's Topugh Quench is a fairly fast oil, works good on Damamsus and ow carbon stuff.
Like I have mentioned earlier, Texaco Type A quenchant that is a heavy mineral oil and a slow quench, it works best for us on 5160 and 52100, it is especially great with the multiple quench.
Shane Justice sells it, his phone # is 307-673-4432.
 
Ed Fowler said:
Brownll's Topugh Quench is a fairly fast oil, works good on Damamsus and ow carbon stuff...
Click to expand...

Which damascus? There are more than a few variations. One single mix that I am fairly familiar with, among an uncountable multitude of combinations, will harden pretty darned well in air ;) .
 
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