blade shaping tricks?

S

saands

Joined
Jan 18, 1999
Messages
10
I am pretty new to this craft ... I just recently finished my second fixed blade of ATS-34 and am looking for a little friendly advise. My biggest problem is achieving an even primary bevel sloping from the full thickness of the spine to the edge. Are there any tricks, fixtures, or hints ... or is just a freehand practice kind of thing? I am using a 1"x30" belt sander for the stock removal and it seems to work well ... it's just that I am finding that grinding such small angles (consistently) is damned difficult! Any help would be truly appreciated.

Thanks,
saands
 
Saands, Here's how I grind blades. Mark two center lines on the bottom of blade with a edge scriber. Kovals sells the edge scriber. Then I clamp a filing guide to the blade to protect the ricasso from unwanted scratches. There is a example of a filing guide on Don Foggs web page. I grind the blade edge up looking at the scribe lines. Starting with a coarse belt, grind a bevel about 1/4 of the blade up and about half way to the scribe line on the edge of the blade. Gradually increase the bevel to were it is about 7/8 ground into blade and close to the center line on the edge of the blade. Change to a 120 grit belt and grind in the rest of the blade. Use a 220 belt to help even up the grind. Next using the filing guide and small files even up the ricasso. Hand sand the dips out of the blade by using a flat hard block(2"x1"x1/2") and 220 grit sand paper. Other tips for grinding. When grinding, only pull the blade in one direction across the belt, you will also have to pull the blade towards yourself when grinding the tip of the blade. Practice grinding on something easy like aluminum. good knife making--ray--
 
Darrel,

Where can I see/buy the edge pro? Is there an internet source where I can read about it? How much? It this an attachment specific to a one grinder or can it be used with any?

TTFN,
Tony
 
OPPPS I was talking about edge angles..

For grinding if you want great grinds (you are not going to like this...)
rough them as above with the lines ect.
buy a dc motor (eeeek spend money) then go to K and G supply and buy a steel disk for the shaft size you have. Go buy a dc reversable controller.
Put it together. Then strap it to a table leg
or build a simple frame for it to stand up so that the disk is horizonial. Get some disk spray and sic carbide paper. Cut the paper to fit the disk. Start with 125 grit or so.
Then move up to about 400 .
This unit will let you use one hand to do both sides of the grind using the reverse on the grinder. It will give you flat and consistant grinds and choil match ups.
I know its a lot of work to get there but it works well!!! If you need more info email me.

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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!






[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 22 January 1999).]
 
I have to agree with Darrel. The only difference is that my disk is vertical, so I have to switch hands, but I can look down at the edge. I can also lean harder (I think). Darrel, have you tried it both ways and found horizontal better? I have to admit that vertical was what I was taught and I've never tried it the other way.

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www.planet.eon.net/~matth
matth@planet.eon.net
 
I am not lasy by any means but I find I can sit down slow the unit slow and take my time.
It is set up at a height that allows easy access for this use.


I like it for deburing also. I just lay the part on the disk and its easy pie for me. I have both type of grinders. I do prefer the hor unit for grinding blades. Just me I guess. I can control it better. I have three disk grinder set up for the lock angle, a 90 degree disk for squaring, and the hor for blade grinding and deburring and side plate contouring.

I guess its all in the way you started,,
I do like the fact that you can grind all one handed.. IT helps when getting the blade to
look proper as for the grind side to side.

Another suggestion is to buy a surplus gear motor cheap and make a blade grinder. This works well if you can afford a dc and controller. Its slow and allows control of the grind..
The secret here is more the speed than anything else. To fast and your grinding stock that you dont want to grind..



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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!





 
Another way to get variable speed is to use step pulleys. I have a four-step pulley on my motor and an identical four-step pulley on the arbor shaft, facing the other way. Of course I only get four speeds instead of infinie variability, and I have to shut off the motor to move the belt; it's definitely not as convenient. On the other hand, it's a lot cheaper. Step pulleys are available at hardware stores.

In case this set-up isn't clear ... the step pulleys are like cones facing opposite ways. For my highest speed the belt is on the smallest step on the motor shaft and the biggest step on the arbor -- those steps are adjacent to each other so the belt is straight. When I want to slow it down I shut off the motor and move the belt down a step. I move the belt to a smaller step on one side first and that gives me enough slack to move it to the bigger step on the other side.

It's not as much hassle as it probably sounds like, only takes a few seconds, and four speeds are enough to suit me -- infinite variability *sounds* like a great idea, but when I use a speed control I find I only use two or three different speeds anyway. YMMV.

-Cougar Allen :{)

 
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