Blade Sharpening Systems.

T

The German Shepherd

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Feb 25, 2014
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I asked this question on a different forum as well - I am wondering what you all use for sharpening you blades? How good are the Ken Onion Work Sharp Systems? If you prefer non-electrical powered units, what do you use and why??

Al I have used, so far, is the Smith's 6 inch Tri-Hone, and while I get good results with it, I am wondering about something a bit better...

Jay
 
If you're already getting good results with the Tri-Hone, why move away from freehanding to power equipment? I would look into new freehanding abrasives such as DMT stones or waterstones.
 
I use the the Spyderco sharp maker and it works good, but I recently purchased a ZT 0551 that had a polished edge that was put on by a Wicked Edge system.. Now I want one of them
 
I use the KME. Holds the blade in place while I concentrate (most of the time) on getting a clean, even bevel to start with and on refinement. Easier for me to keep the pressures light and even. Versatile in that I can run ceramics, diamonds, or Chosera waterstones (I think Ken is cutting Shapton Pros for the KME now.) and stropping inserts with my choice of emulsions/compounds.

I freehanded my 1095, 440C (and A), and 420HC blades for decades on a Arkansas tri-hone set and used Crock Sticks and similar for touch ups along the way. Most days I got good edges. Some days though I didn't hold my mouth just right, the stars didn't align, and I was a bit off and had frustrations. I still get a few, but fewer and farther between and pretty much because I simply didn't pay attention to a basic or two.

For D2 and other abrasion resistant steel, especially when reprofiling or cutting a fresh bevel, the option for diamond and/or waterstones makes things works so much better. The Arkansas won't even touch D2 in anything close to a reasonable time. Trees grow from seedlings to massive in less time.
 
I use a Lansky stone and diamond hone system. I also have the Smiths' tri stones and like them for my kitchen knives, kukri, etc. the knives that won't fit in the jaws of the Lansky.

I started with the tri hone system but wanted a more consistent edge that I was/am incapable of doing freehand so I chose the Lansky system after watching You Tube videos on the varied systems. I felt it would serve me well...and it certainly does...and was not very expensive for the 5 stone system. I added the diamond hones and ceramic hones later to the "super" steels and a more polished edge.
 
Power systems are much faster, and free handing works exceptionally well if you have the talent and experience to get it right. But the best edges are created with guided systems. The best I've found is the Wicked Edge. The diamonds remove metal fast to create a clean, perfect edge bevel. The ceramics refine the edge. And the strops refine it further. Stropping is always an art, but with the Wicked Edge and very light pressure, stropping is easy to master and well worth the effort.
 
I use a sharpmaker and a wicked edge. All touch ups are on the SM and more damaged blades are done on the WE
 
scotchleaf said:
paper wheels are the way to go
Click to expand...

I have a Sharpmaker which for me worked as well as waving a knife around in a warm room. I have a Lansky set and a belt sander. With the belt sander I could get petty good edges but not great. I don't know if I am sharpening challenged but the Lansky system never worked for me either. I got a set of paper wheels a month or so and the edges that I get are amazing. In 2 or 3 minutes a knife I can split hairs.
 
+1 on everything Amos said. With the addition of the fact that the KME is affordable even for penniless vagrants such as myself. Love my KME.
 
I have a SharpMaker and a Wicked Edge. I use the Wicked Edge almost exclusively these days. After a little practice the WE is a repeatable and precision solution. The edges are very sharp and mirrored if you'd like.
 
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