Blade steel, specifically D2

J

J. MacDonald

Joined
Jun 8, 2000
Messages
3,140
I have knives with well heat treated 154CM, ATS-34, BG42 and 440C. They all hold an edge well, but the couple blades I have in D2 seem somewhat special in this respect.

While the 154CM, ATS-34 and BG 42 blades all seem to be a bit harder and take longer to sharpen, the D2 blades seem to stay sharp longer and be easier to touch up. While I'm not as advanced as Cliff Stamp, I at least went so far as to compare a Benchmade 941BC1 with a 154CM blade to a Benchmade 941D2CF with a D2 Blade. Same exact blade grind, same manufacturer. This sort of took grind and geometry out of the equation as both knives have exactly the same blade and handle design. One is BC coated, but that would seemingly affect the back bevel, if anything, not the primary edge sharpness. My Socom Elite is also 154CM so I have another 154CM reference that is not BC coated.

I also have a Lile Combat with a 7" D2 blade and it is overall the sharpest knife I've ever owned. I will admit that I've never used it hard enough to really need to do more than touch up the blade with a fine Sharpmaker stone, but it's scary sharp!

The Benchmade 941D2CF gets used everyday and has mostly replaced both mt Socom Elite and my Small Sebenza as my EDC because that D2 blade is so sweet, especially when coupled with an Axis lock and carbon fiber scales. It seems to do better being dragged across staples and cardboard while opening boxes than ATS-34 and 154CM in my experience. Am I off here?

What do you think of D2?

jmx
 
I absolutely love D2! My 806D2 is my current EDC. Literally, everyday! :D

Of course, it may have a challenger when my Sebenza arrives!
 
D2 is my favorite steel. For this reason only, I know it well. It's not the best at any one thing but is very good at all. Now that I been careing my M4 in s30v that steel is going to take the #1 spot shortly I beleive. I have found the same as you with how well d2 holds an edge and can be resharpened. Damn good stuff.I think anyone who likes d2 will like s30 as well.
 
Freedom Fighter in D2 steel...

I can't seem to bring myself to using it unless I can buy another one as a backup...
 
I agree that D2 is an awesome edge holder. It's my favorite steel right now. I am surprised by your sharpening experiences though. I always found steels like 440C and BG-42 to be easier to sharpen. Then again, my D2 is Dozier D2, and Bob pushes the hardness higher than production companies probably do.
 
Actually my Dozier folder in D2 is actually easier to sharpen than the above mentioned steels, which I have in other blades.
 
How easy is easy? Well, with a diamond bench stone it should be no more difficult than any other of the common steels. Bob Dozier recommends an Eze- Lap in Xtra Fine grade. I' ve have found that Bobs D2 is quite easy to sharpen. Often times it is a matter of getting the correct angle consistently. This goes for any other blade steel. Also keep in mind another factor. A thinly ground blade will sharpen easier and will hold its edge longer.

Nakano
 
I recently boght a CUDA Maxx 5.5 in D2 steel and love it. It cuts through everything like butter. It is my EDC. Took it to the beach at Galveston 2 weeks ago and subjected it to a brief (and light) sea spray and no rust, although I oiled it before and washed and oiled it afterward. Bottom line: love the D2 steel.
 
Yep. A thinner blade is much easier to sharpen. All I've ever needed for my Dozier K-4 is a SharpMaker set to a degree angle. Touch-ups have been very quick and easy.

I'll also mention my convex ground Dozier K-1. Convex grinds, IMHO, make it much easier to sharpen tougher steels. I really haven't noticed much of a difference between D2 and 52100 when using something like 800 grit wet/dry paper. Both steels took the same amount of time to sharpen.
 
Japanese D2 named SLD is tend to be recommendated in Japan.
SLD(equivalent to D2) is somewhat less amount of Vanadium than conventional D2.And also i hear that it is easier to finish like mirror than conventional D2.But cutlerys made from it get funs of Metal cutting meisters and/or scissors edge for extreme thin clothes,etc in Japan.But i dont know the reason still now.

japansteel
 
When I commisioned my bowie knife to be made I ordered a piece of D-2 from Jessup steel in Jessup, Pa. with 12 1/2% chromium content.

The knife is oversized and not really sonmething I would carry [it weighs three pounds as the dimensions are 12 1/2" blade of D-2 thats 3/8" thick at the spine and flat ground to the convex edge and 2 1/2 " wide ].

I carry 154cm and ats-34 mainly in my folders as the knives I want to carry are made of that material and I find them acceptable at holding an edge and resharpening is right quick when they need it.

Tool steels are going to hold a better edge, and take a better edge as a rule if all else is equal otherwise. I like a-2, d-2, 1095, 1056 and have some customs I had commisioned and made for me as they are my first choices.

Brownie
 
I dunno'. Unless you work steadily with a knife, all day, day after day, I really don't see much practical difference between 154CM, BG-42, D-2, A-2, M-2, 52100, and so on, in terms of edge holding. Even 440C, if well heat treated will get you through an average day in the woods with no problem.

I recently spent a day comparing my Ralph/Wilson TE with a 440C-OS blade and a D-2 Ralph 4" Arclite. Similar hollow grinds. Spent all day cutting up heavy gauge cardboard, chopping oak branches, anything I could find to cut. No discernable difference in the edges. Both held up very well. After two or three such days, I might be able to tell the difference, but I don't care. After the first day, they both needed sharpening anyway.

CPM S90V, on the other hand, stays sharp a ridiculously long time. Hard to sharpen once it does go dull though.
 
D2 is a covenient steel.
In japan,SLD(D2) is used for many kinds of scissors,etc.
It may be suitable for cutting by contact of each metals.
If you cant buy too much blade steel,
this steel may be suitable.
 
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