Blade testing... And what mediums do/did you use?

[Carter Leffen]

Not too long ago, some gents from Hong Kong's Sword Forum International did some sword testing. (I can't find the thread on SFI's website, and it's really bugging me...) They used the heads of swine from a local butcher shop. Photos, and their findings were interesting. The weapons they used were European swords.

I've only been up here in "tourist heaven" for a couple of years, and really don't know anybody outside of SFI or here, that really LIKES sharp, shiny, and pointed works of "functional art..." So, since seriously taking up said art works, I'm really curious as to what these beauties can do...

I've spent years with firearms, and know intimetly what they can, and will do... No secrets there. But with sharp, shiny, and pointies? Outside of archery, yeah, I've lots of questions... Oh, I've seen autopsy reports and photos in "living" color, but that's not as subjective as what those fellas from Hong Kong did...

Here in H-I's Khukuridom, what kinds have testing have you done with your Khukuris or swords? What were your impressions? As a result of your findings, are there some blades that you wouldn't trust your life with? Are there blades you'd trust before others? Have your findings changed your loadouts when in the bush, or for self defense?

I believe such findings could be extremely important to the safety and well being of many, and certainly help in blade/weapon selection...

Thanks, Folks...

Carter

 

[Dave Rishar]

Dean mentioned in one of his many excellent posts in the tips and tricks thread (stickied) the use of a certain type of plastic pipe, wrapped in wet newspapers, as a cutting target in Europe. I don't recall the name of the product but I went looking for it a few times with no luck. It's based on polypropelene, though; when I can figure out a good inside/outside diameter, I plan on purchasing some poly piping and trying things out for myself. The idea is for the piping to represent live bone (which flexes quite a bit, actually - push on your ribs) and the wet, compressed newspaper simulates living tissue, complete with the lubricating factor of blood simulated by the water content.

My initial cutting was on hanging beer cans full of water but this was more for practicing edge presentation and accuracy than anything else. I still find it satisfying to snip the top off a can while leaving the bottom standing. Empty cans are much more difficult. Same with plastic bottles and such. With your SFI background, I'm sure that you already know all about this. (They actually gave me the idea, the cretins.)

I'm a big fan of pool noodles. Even a thick edge can get through cleanly, but only if it's a good swing. Almost no power is needed, just accuracy and focus. It tells me nothing about the blade but it tells me everything about myself. Pool noodles are presently out of season around here, unfortunately. Back to the beer cans.

I cut on a hanging mooring line sometimes. The thinner the edge, the better. Most khuks don't do well.

I've taken on saplings with a few swords. If your swing is good, it's a clean cut. If the edge is off, stand by for damage.

As a rule of thumb, I trust HI products with my life if they're used as they're designed. I would not expect a Napoleon Sword to hold up to heavy chopping or prying, for example. If you're asking about their swords in particular (and I suspect that you are) know that my experience with swords is still limited at this point, but HI's are made of good steel and most feel very good in the hand for what they're meant to do. They're good, honest swords that are (IMO) underpriced.

The khuks get the worst of it and I've beaten some of mine like rented donkeys - chopping cinderblocks and bricks, car parts, steel trashcans, digging holes, prying out nails, etc. They work.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, Carter. (I didn't drop out of Harvard to get this job after all.) I hope that I answered your questions; if not, feel free to send an email.

 

[kronckew]

'ignavi servi' work really well as test materials, but they stopped me using them a few centuries ago. the big german ones worked best, especially for heat treating & tempering gladii. my blacksmiths would use reed bundles soaked in water for testing when they were not available, and olive oil & wine for heat treatment. ah, the good old days. hasn't been the same since that bat bit me in transylvania back in 328...nowadays i never drink - wine

vannus paulus draculus
prim pil leg II

 

[munk]

Carter, when I get a new blade I intend to use in the field, which is most if not all of mine, I first chop into some partially green Pine. I progress until I'm smashing away at old, sun dried resin impregnated Pine. My standard proof test is to hit it about as hard as I can, as if the blade was going to pass through in one stroke. I check the edge for deformation. I haven't seen any for several years now.
After this initial proof testing, I do not subject my blades to this abuse. There is no purpose in striking too hard. It is dangerous, hard on the blade, possibly fatal or maiming to the owner, and does not cut one whit better than the appropriate stroke of modest power. You can sense what is optimum for the khuk.



munk