blades and handles...

Q

Quadro151

Joined
Oct 8, 2001
Messages
68
just a quick question...what kind of oil is used to keep the blades from rusting, and what is used to keep the wood handles in good shape?

thanks,
quad
 
thanks for the help...im going to go apply some wd40 and look for the linseed oil tomorrow....

quad
 
I use Tuff Cloth for the blades and Renaiscense wax for everything else. It works.
 
Mineral oil on blades, baby oil on horn (dont laugh it actually works), shoe polish on the leather, and a mix of oils (linseed oil, tung, etc...) on wood... As for WD-40 careful it has alota thinners so it evaporates fast, and is not made to be real good protection. Itll work, but you just gotta check it more often. On a more intense level, I do try and maintain humidity levels, as well as temps. Proper humidity levels do an amazing amount at preventing damage.
 
Double boiled linseed oil or tung oil on the handles. Apply multiple thin layers rather than a thick layer. Rust check automotive rust preventer on the blade. Note, use will remove any rust preventative coating.

Will
 
For blade protection, Renaissance Wax, and for Wood handles I use Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and use Walosi's gunstock finish process. Not only does the Big Frog's process keep the wood hydrated, it markedly improves it's appearance. I highly recommend it!

Renaissance Wax was mentioned in an earlier thread (when---can't remember )as an "dry" options to keep rust at bay. It was developed for use at the british museum to preserve practially everything form deterioration. It is not cheap at $22-25.00 for a 7 oz. can, but a little goes a long way. They sell Renaissance Wax on the Brownell's website <www.brownells.com>.

Walosi was kind enough to post his Gunstock finishing process on the Khukuri FAQ page on the HI Website. It is especially fun to apply while watching the A-Team or The Pinky Lee Show! (Oops, sorry making reference to another thread! ;) :D :rolleyes: )

-Craig

P.S. BTW They sell Tru-Oil at Wal-mart in the sporting goods section in with the gun cleaning stuff.
 
Thanks all for good help. As Fed mentioned, temp & humidity control is the best preventative maintenance there is but very hard to do.
 
An alternative to buying expensive Renaisance wax is to use clear shoe polish on the blade. Not as nice as Renaisance wax, but it works pretty well. Humidity/temp things work easily if you like to keep your knives isolated in a small area, such as a closet or chest of some sort. Then its a simple matter of having a bowl of water, or small humidifier in the room for dry days, or a small dehumidifier on humid days. Its when you get to large spaces, its much harder to keep the levels consistent due to the amount of air space youre trying to effect. Also the oils in your hand are actually somewhat beneficial to the horn in the handles, some people out there use human oils (from nose ears) to preserve their ivory, so usin your horn handle khuks will at least help the handle somewhat.
 
Are you suggesting that snot and earwax are good for preserving the horn handles? If so, I'm gonna dig in the garbage for some old Q-tips :D
 
Its the oil thats supposedly good, the greasiness that is more abundant there than in other parts of the body. Puts a new spin on acne problems, instead of oiliness being a problem its instead a wealth for horn preserving material ;) How effective this is, I dont know, but I do know that there are people who swear by it for their antique ivory.
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
Are you suggesting that snot and earwax are good for preserving the horn handles? If so, I'm gonna dig in the garbage for some old Q-tips :D
Click to expand...

Bruiser, it's the oil from the OUTSIDE of the nose, not the inside :barf: It is almost all lanolin, so it might be called Noseflex :rolleyes: Pipe smokers used to rub their briars alongside their noses to enhance the finish on the pipe - depending on what they burned in them, they weren't too noticeable when the oil got rancid :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top