Blades are chipped after sharpening process

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y53p

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May 11, 2022
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I use a lansky deluxe in combination with a coarse diamond stone. I've noticed that after the sharpening process is complete the blade appears to have at least one or two chips and dings and the sharpness is not uniform, but shows hang ups in the cutting process due to those dull/almost serrated tiny spots. Not only can I see these spots in the right lighting but also feel them with my fingernail. I've tried evening down the edge to be blunt and then resharpen the knives but I essentially got the same result, simply moving the chips.

I've noticed this on 3 different steels from 3 different brands, 420hc, s30v and d2 so at this point I doubt it's the knives itselves but it might either be my user error or just something else completely that I don't know about.

Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.

420hc (3 nicks visible at the center)
IMG-2385.jpg


s30v (nicks at the center and towards the tip)
IMG-2387.jpg


d2 (small portion of the mid edge is almost serrated)

IMG-2392.jpg
 
Not really familiar with the Lansky but you could try lightening up your strokes as you near completion of your sharpening.You could also put on a microbevel at a slightly higher angle using light strokes to remove the microchips.Just an idea.Hope this helps.
 
I've had a few diamond hones (DMT) that had some extra large diamond particles that the edge would catch on and create "dents" in the edge. This is why I no longer recommend DMT hones.

I fixed this by carefully grinding those particles down using this little extra-hard black stone that came with my dremel for dressing grinding bits.
 
If the diamond hone is also for the Lansky, it may be some irregular bumps on the hone. Lansky's diamond hones aren't very expensive to begin with. And the Coarse & Extra Coarse diamond hones can be pretty rough as compared to something like DMT's hones. They're probably not graded as tightly as some of the better brand diamond hones. With my Lansky diamond kit, I seldom, if ever, used anything beyond the Medium grit diamond hone - it served pretty well for reprofiling jobs on its own.
 
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Doesn’t look like only chips to me. Looks more like the diamond stone is rolling the edge in areas due to the angle being way too steep for the steel to handle
 
How old is the diamond plate? If its brand new it might just need to be used a little to break in some. I have had this issue. I just used an arkansas stone I had laying around and went over it lightly for about 5 min and the problem was fixed.
 
Resharpen starting with medium at current angle as Obsessed with Edges does. From info and pics reported, edge condition is from stone probably, plus maybe to much pressure on your part. Micro bevel as Robert suggested would be interesting to compare in another sharpening round. Keep the pics coming as you solve this issue to help those behind you.
 
Continued to think about this thread after commenting earlier.

I broke out my Lansky diamond hones to reacquaint myself with them. It's been years since I used that set, having committed myself to freehand sharpening over the last few years. The Coarse Lansky hone (purple holder) IS quite rough. I tested it against the edge of a Buck 111 folder in 420HC. It does tend to grab the apex pretty abruptly if the angle held is just a little wider than the existing edge angle. Raised a heavy burr very quickly in just 3 or 4 light passes on each side of my existing edge. Having seen that, it affirms my belief that the roughness of the hone is a factor, and also highlights the importance of setting & holding an angle just low enough to keep the apex from digging in on the hone and creating those dents at the apex. I'd also emphasize keeping the touch as light as possible, for essentially the same reason.
 
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Hey everyone, quick update on the status of the thread, I managed to fix the knives by resharpening them starting from a medium 280 up to 1000 and a polished strop, and using gentler passes, so it was either the coarser stones (especially the brand new coarse diamond) that created those chips, or the strong passes, or maybe both.

I’m going to post a couple pics, thanks to everyone who offered advice on this thread, it was very helpful as I basically adopted every fix each one of you suggested in the resharpening process and obtained very satisfying results.

420hc, simply used gentler passes and restarted from 280
7-A6-E5-C44-22-C7-49-F3-85-A2-C92-FCF2-AF087.jpg



D2, same thing as 420hc but I put a microbevel on it
0203-AB44-B99-A-4-BE6-BA88-99-D3-A1470-DF1.jpg


S30V’s change doesn’t really show on camera but I did the same thing and obtained a consistent edge.
Thank you everyone, hope this thread helps people who may encounter the same issue.
 
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