I'm having a heluva time blending bolsters and scales..this time damascus bolsters and stabilized burl scales on a medium size folder. Must they be the same thickness? DO you do all the shaping on the bolsters first and then add the scales and blend...or..uh..exactly what? Thanks
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Blending bolsters and scales
- Thread starter John L
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2002
- Messages
- 1,240
Good question, I would like to hear what the experienced guys say. I have only been making folders for a month or so, but I profile the bolsters, scales, back bar, and liners all at the same time with the knife put togeter. Then I take everything apart and re-assemble the left and right liner/scale/bolster combination and start the contour and getting everything to the same thickness. Sometimes I do the thickness part with the whole knife assembled and use the blade as a handle in the open position.
I use the flat platten on my grinder to get everything flat. A nice disc grinder would do a better job (IMHO). Then everything comes apart again so i can color the liners and etch the blade and back bar. Then all back together and finish the contouring of the the scales and bolsters. Then finish contouring by hand sanding.
Then back apart to etch the bolsters. Then back together for final fit and finish and sharpening.
Hope that helps.
I use the flat platten on my grinder to get everything flat. A nice disc grinder would do a better job (IMHO). Then everything comes apart again so i can color the liners and etch the blade and back bar. Then all back together and finish the contouring of the the scales and bolsters. Then finish contouring by hand sanding.
Then back apart to etch the bolsters. Then back together for final fit and finish and sharpening.
Hope that helps.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 849
I haven't sold any folders, made some to learn how. When I start shaping any knife handle the knife is fully assembled and will not/can't be taken apart. On folders that I made I made an exception in that thy were able to be dissembled because that was the kind of knives thy were but i did it the same way. Gib
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Messages
- 597
I sometimes use sacrificial scales to first contour the bolsters especially when using bark ivory, stag or other material that is a lot softer than the bolsters, or if I want to preserve as much of the scale face as possible. When blending I try to keep most of the belt or sandpaper pressure on the harder material side and I usually increase the slack belt tension while working in this area. When hand sanding I use stiff backing (thick leather or stiff rubber) on the sandpaper and sand the same direction as the joint working through to the finer grits and then switch directions, I find that I don't dip or dig out the softer material side using the finer grits. I do start off with the same thickness bolster and scales on both sides and I scribe a line where I want the contour to end. For me it's easier that way to get both sides even. Sure hope this made sense. I've never been able to (unfortunately), but I recommend visiting another knife makers shop, it's easier to see it then it is to read it. My method was learned by trial and error, there's probably an easier way and hopefully a more experienced maker will give you additional advice.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 1998
- Messages
- 2,300
You'll call me crazy, but let me tell you how I do it.
Like Dave said, I use a piece of micarta, about an inch long behind each bolster. I screw it down just like the handle piece. I use a small pair of dividers and scribe a line to grind to along each edge of the bolster. All my shaping is done on a 10" wheel. I hold the knife horizontal and grind the bolster into the scribe line and into the sacrificial micarta, on all 4 edges. Now turn the knife vertical and blend from the scribe line to the center of the bolster on all 4 edges, moving the knife up and down. I do this to 220 grit or finer, depending on what the handle material is. Now remove the micarta pieces and put the handles on.
Either scribe them or use a fine pencil and mark the line to grind to. Starting at the bolster end, with the knife horizontal to the ground, grind to the line. Turn the knife vertical and blend each edge from scribe line to center moving the knife up and down. Go to a 400 grit belt and finish smoothing and blending, doing it the same way.
If you are going to buff the bolsters, put the sacrificial pieces back on and do the buffing or whatever finish. Now put the handle pieces on and do the final finish.
Do it this way and you'll never have the rolled over edges on the bolsters that are so hard to sand out.
Very little hand sanding is required.
The example I used was with a folder, but this works just as well on fixed blades with bolsters. Just use temporary pins or tape to hold the sacrificial pieces on.
Like Dave said, I use a piece of micarta, about an inch long behind each bolster. I screw it down just like the handle piece. I use a small pair of dividers and scribe a line to grind to along each edge of the bolster. All my shaping is done on a 10" wheel. I hold the knife horizontal and grind the bolster into the scribe line and into the sacrificial micarta, on all 4 edges. Now turn the knife vertical and blend from the scribe line to the center of the bolster on all 4 edges, moving the knife up and down. I do this to 220 grit or finer, depending on what the handle material is. Now remove the micarta pieces and put the handles on.
Either scribe them or use a fine pencil and mark the line to grind to. Starting at the bolster end, with the knife horizontal to the ground, grind to the line. Turn the knife vertical and blend each edge from scribe line to center moving the knife up and down. Go to a 400 grit belt and finish smoothing and blending, doing it the same way.
If you are going to buff the bolsters, put the sacrificial pieces back on and do the buffing or whatever finish. Now put the handle pieces on and do the final finish.
Do it this way and you'll never have the rolled over edges on the bolsters that are so hard to sand out.
Very little hand sanding is required.
The example I used was with a folder, but this works just as well on fixed blades with bolsters. Just use temporary pins or tape to hold the sacrificial pieces on.