BLO mixture for Kephart

Mass1632

Mass1632

Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
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I was about to wipe my kephart scales down with BLO but i recalled hearing how people will mix it with other chemicals which will really help the grain “pop”. Ive heard of blo with turpentine, or even kerosene.

Anyone here ever experimented mixtures like these? Or any other type of mixture? Really looking for that grain to “pop”. Chances are ill just go with blo but i thought i would throw this out here.

thanks.
 
GeofS said:
I greatly prefer pure tung oil. You can mix it with natural orange spirits as a thinner initially, then use it straight in later coats.
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Ahh yeah, i had forgotten about possibly using tung oil. Natural orange spirits? Never heard of that before.
 
I've never liked Boiled Linseed Oil. It yellows and "muddies up" the natural look of the wood.

Tung Oil or Tru-Oil from Birchwood Casey for a nice, transparent finish.

Personally, I like to sand down handles and apply hot Beeswax, which I buff to a shine. It makes the handles "grippier".

Your Mileage may vary. Taxes and Delivery extra. See your Dealer for details.
 
Ive used the blo for a couple gun stocks and didnt really think much of any yellowing, i probably just incorrectly attributed it to bringing out the color of the wood. These scales are already pretty dark im not really sure how the yellowing will affect the look. Im leaning towards a tung oil / citrus solvent mix
 
If I'm working on something I don't need food safe and want a sealer coat on it "now", I use Danish oil.
It if needs to be food safe I either melt beeswax or carnauba wax into it and buff with a dead wool socks or I do 3-4 coats of pure tung. The first coat mixed 50/50 with orange oil, second coat 65/35 tung and orange oil, 3 + 4 are pure tung.
24-36 hours between coats and let it rest at least 10 days, lightly buffing every other day before use.

Once cured, tung is food safe and fairly solvent resistant.
Beeswax and carnauba wax can be used immediately, but don't tolerate high temps or high alcohol content.
 
1066vik said:
If I'm working on something I don't need food safe and want a sealer coat on it "now", I use Danish oil.
It if needs to be food safe I either melt beeswax or carnauba wax into it and buff with a dead wool socks or I do 3-4 coats of pure tung. The first coat mixed 50/50 with orange oil, second coat 65/35 tung and orange oil, 3 + 4 are pure tung.
24-36 hours between coats and let it rest at least 10 days, lightly buffing every other day before use.

Once cured, tung is food safe and fairly solvent resistant.
Beeswax and carnauba wax can be used immediately, but don't tolerate high temps or high alcohol content.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the break down.
 
Wow...learning a lot from you guys. I am still at that stage where I just color it with a brown crayon.

In all seriousness:
Thanks for the info. Years ago I had a friend that had a hand-rubbed oil finished gun stock that was a beautiful work of art. I always wanted to do the same thing with one of my stocks, but could never achieve the proper finish. Sounds like some of these methods may give me the sheen I am looking for.
 
I second the Danish oil finish as 1066vik 1066vik suggested.... It's super easy, looks Amazing, you can get different tints of coloring, yet All of them let the grains really show through.... It's what I used on mine. and lots of rubbing
 
So, the danish oil is not food safe? Once it dries would it really matter? Chances are the handle isnt going to fall into the food.
 
1066vik said:
If I'm working on something I don't need food safe and want a sealer coat on it "now", I use Danish oil.
It if needs to be food safe I either melt beeswax or carnauba wax into it and buff with a dead wool socks or I do 3-4 coats of pure tung...
Click to expand...

How long are you wearing your socks, that you have to differentiate between a live one and a dead one...?
 
Say no to BLO! Say no to BLO!

Nasty smelly stuff.

I use mineral oil on my cutting boards, wooden spoons, knife handles and blades.
 
Aikiguy said:
How long are you wearing your socks, that you have to differentiate between a live one and a dead one...?
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not more than 12 years... ;)

seriously -- when it's either far enough gone it has no stretch left, so I can't get my foot in it -- or when I pull it on anyway and a significant fraction of my foot can be seen through it, I consider it dead.
 
I too like the smell of BLO. I do like viks technique of increasing the tung oil ratio per coat. Also considering mixing the blo with the tung as faler does. Maybe use small dabs of it to see. It would be nice to have some walnut sitting around to test with.
 
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