Block performance anxiety

Yes. Although I cannot really recommend how I handled it…just storing the wood “until I think I am good enough to use it”. Some bits are still waiting after 20 years 😂

Are you cutting with a bandsaw, or by hand? In either case I found that performing practice cuts in hard wood before doing the expensive wood helps iron out any problems in set up or technique.
 
Bühlmann said:
Anyone else feel the panic and uneasiness of preparing to cut into an expensive block of wood? I’ve been accumulating nice stabilized blocks from Greenberg and a few others over the past year, and now I think I’m ready to finally dig into one and I’m terrified! 😂
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It's my favorite feeling! No panic, just curiousness. But I'm usually cutting things that I don't have to pay for 😆
 
Bandsaw. I’m not necessarily worried about my cuts, but more the commitment of the cuts if that makes any sense. Also that step for me personally is committing to the level of confidence in ability that I have assigned to a particular block. Kinda like the first day of work after a promotion or change in job to an elevated position. Ain’t no going back, and I gotta make it look good!

Panic, excitement, curiosity, unknown….kinda like going to prom! 😂
 
Just some FYI guidance to lessen the stress:
1) When you cut the block of wood, flip the pieces inside out to create bookmatched scales. That way both sides of the knife will have the same pattern. Turn both scales the same way to assure getting the grain direction the same.
2) Sand the un-cut sides (the old outside that now will be sitting against the tang) flat and smooth, so they sit flush together with no gaps. This is best done on a disc grinder or a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper siting on a glass sheet or a granite block. Trying to do it on a flat platen will make you learn new curse words.
4) Mark the inside of the scales with a long arrow to show the front direction. This is important because it will prevent reversing one scale when drilling or mounting. Making this mistake and realizing it too late will make you learn even more colorful words.
5) Before drilling or mounting ... double check that when placed together both scales are oriented the same way and the holes align.
6) Before mounting the scales, put temporary pins in the scales and tape or rubber band them tight together. Sand the front to the desired contour and take it to at least 400 grit. Buff or finish the front portion however you will finish the rest of the handle later on. This portion of the handle cannot be shaped and finished after assembly without damaging the finished blade at the ricasso. Failing to do this step will also bring colorful language.
7) Before finally epoxying the handle on and starting to shape the handle look it over really well. Is there a tiny crack that need to be filled with CA? If so, do it before assembly. At=re the scales oriented right with the arrows on the inside matching direction? ... etc.
 
Not to add to the stress..... My last block showed tons of cracks, weeks after cutting.
:/
Haha... I'm sure your results will be more favorable
 
My advise would be

Give natural wood a chance to rest. Stabilized wood can be treated pretty rough, cut it, sand it and pin it all in the same day.

But natural wood loves attention. Most of my natural species will ship with the ends sealed, this is just to help prevent cracks or other issues. When you are working with natural wood, steps like

Not leaving super rough surfaces. If you bandsaw cut wood, the super rough finish can be a propagation site for cracks to form. Sharp, rough, and freshly exposed edges are the perfect place for minor cracks. If you can, sand over these areas just enough for a reasonably flat or continuous surface.

Not leaving the wood exposed to moving air or sunlight right after cutting. A drawer, cabinet or even just under a piece of cardboard can really help prevent issues right after cutting.

Thin CA glue is your friend. There are tons if brands, I really like the blue thin solution from tru grit, just make sure you also get the debonder for it. Thin CA should he applied lightly to anything that even vauegly resembles a crack or check. I promise no one will be able to notice it in the finished product, and by catching these minor issues early you can help the wood stay beautiful exponentially longer. Cracks beget cracks, as they can function as seed points for the future. CA glue holds them together, prevents moisture and air from infiltrating and helps build an even finish.

Wood doesn't need to be babies for very long, but being shipped around the world, cut and sanded can introduce stresses to super figured natural woods that can be the starting point for issues. Taking a little extra care during these first steps cam result in a much more stable long term product by preventing minor cracks that can propagate later.
 
Greenberg Woods said:
What was the wood?
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Idk if it's lignum vitae, or verawood?
I don't have a microscope yet to look closer at it's endgrain.
It's VERY aromatic. I love it, it's one of the best things I've smelt in a long time. Very spicy.

The cracks are long, so far I can't break the approx. 3/8" thick slabs with my hands. I'm kinda surprised that I can't. They must not be as cracked/fragile as they look?
 
Bühlmann said:
Stabilized?!?
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No, not stabilized.

So far...... I'm not a fan of stabilized woods, because of their texture.
I only have one knife that is.
Idk where it was done? But it feels plasticity to me.
It was maple, IMO it shouldn't have been. I don't when I use maple for scales.

I keep looking (somewhat recently at Greenberg's website) for something, idk what yet? I'd like something not for people with allergies, I'm generally sensitive to stuff.

I'd be willing to try stabilized stuff again if I know it's Good
 
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