Blondie

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
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Blondie

Blade: 6 3/4" x 3/16"(approx) of forged 1084 with a 600 grit hand sanded finish and a few forge marks for good measure.

Handle: 4 3/4" of two-tone figured Red Maple, peened s.s pin, and a buffed Tung oil finish. Deeply etched wrought iron fittings forged from an old anchor chain.

Sheath: 6/7 oz veg. tanned leather with a figured Red Maple inlay.

















-Peter
 
I honestly have never been a fan of sheaths with inlays, but this is definitely a big exception to that. Very well done, been into knives for a couple years now and this is the first one I have seen with a wooden inlay. Also, the knife itself is really nice looking, domed pins take a lot of skill to do.
 
that's a great piece, Peter. Stylish and understated. Kinda Canadian looking to me.
 
Very nice Peter.

That sheath is impressive.
 
Very nice Peter.

That sheath is impressive.
 
Thank you folks.

I need to take better photos....:(

Rostislav - Getting the head to form "just right" so there are no sharp edges and its tight to the wood, and getting both sides to look exactly the same is taking A LOT of practice. I've been doing a lot of peened pins lately and had enough courage to bang one into this relatively soft, easily bruised Red Maple. It took lots of careful blows with my smallest peening hammer to finally get it right.

-Peter
 
Nice profile! I like the blade shape. If you don't mind my opinion, on the handle you could go thinner toward the front half and wider at the butt. This makes a wedge so that when you swing it it actually tightens in the hand...hope I'm making sense.
 
Thanks again guys. :D

Ben- Although the one photos doesn't show it off well enough, there is a taper from the front of the guard at just under 3/4" to the handle's widest, 7/8". The flare at the butt end is just shy of 7/8" at it widest. That's just about the full usable dimension of the wood block I had available.

I do see your point. I study a lot of your work as well as others in this category (Wheeler, Knight, DesRosiers, etc.) to get general profiles, and contours, and I see variations on a similar wedge shape that you refer to. I'm gradually getting to the hand feel I want and that wedge shape is, indeed, key.

Thanks for your advice Ben. Its greatly appreciated.

-Peter
 
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