Bloodwood BLAHS Help!!!!

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I spent a long time fileworking and getting together this knife, not knowing what a pain Bloodwood is
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Even with a fresh belt on about 275rpm this stuff will not sand without burning.
Has anybody else used this? If so what do I do? I got a really nice Tiger striped piece and don't want to take the scales off unless I have too.
Thanks for your help guys!
Bob Hankins
PS:My first Pics are coming soon.

[This message has been edited by bobH (edited 09-18-2000).]
 
I have apiece of Bloodwood but have not tried working on it yet. However I was doing a Dessert Ironwood handle and along the grain it would burn with a fresh grit 60 on low speed.....when I started to grind croos the grain I had no problem.


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Jens Anso, jens@ansoknives.com
(check out my homepage)
Ansoknives.com
 
I work it down by hand with 120 shop roll strips, then 220, then buff the hell out of it with white compound. Then use several coats of Danish oil polymer, work it with 0000 steel wool, then one more coat of oil and buff with a clean loose buff.I've found that warming the oil a bit helps too.

Jake

 
I aagree with Jake. Take your time and sand by hand. As dense as this wood is, it burns very easily. Looks great if you do it slowly. It just does not like belt sanders.

Marcel
 
For all those woods that tend to burn, I find that a 36 grit belt is ideal for removing most of the material, then as I go to finer grits I use progressively lighter and lighter pressure. 36 Grit belts tend to load up a lot less than 60's. Above 120 grit, I do it by hand. Once the shape is established, hand sanding is pretty fast, even up to 1200-2000 grit.

BTW, if you've not sanded nice wood out to 2000 grit, you should give it a try. It is simply amazing how beautiful it can be. By comparison, using a buff on wood kills the figure.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
The Tom & Jerry Show
 
Thanks Guys
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Looks like files and sandpaper on this blade.
Oh well I guess I will make it a little fancier and put in some nice tight curves and such.
Anybody have a suggestion on some good shop roll sandpaper that will hold its grit and not leave stains on the wood?
All I have is the cheapo stuff and it doesnt work all that well.
 
jerrys right about using 36 grit belts for heavy removal on any hardwood. also use a/o belts, the ceramic belts are for steel only.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
I like using emory clothafter roughing out on the grinder. You can tear it into narrow strips.Put the knife in a vise and "shine those shoes"
I also use thin foam pads on dowels or flat 1 inch wide pieces of wood trim to get into the tight spots and to gently round the edges.
Take Care
TJ Smith
 
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