Blue blade?

R

Ravenshurst

Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Messages
8
Hi all, nooB from Tucson, AZ here. I have only made a few knives thus far, and I harden them in the forge, and then temper them with an oxy-acetylene torch. I like the blue color on the blades. BUT...I saw a picture of a BEAUTIFUL blue blade on www.fairbairnsykesfightingknives.com, an FS made by Weyersberg, Kirschbaum, & Cie in Germany. I don't know how to post a picture, but if any one is curious it is under the "derivative knives">"post war versions" tab. My question is, how do I get that beautiful blue color? I get nice color with a torch but I can't get that all-over blue, mine is blue and purple and wheat. Do I need to shell out for a heat treat oven? Can I just use my kitchen oven? Any advice would greatly appreciated.
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Hi,

You should not be heat coloring blades, it ruins them.

I can't see the pic but blue or brown blades are done by "bluing" depends on which material you have you can do certain processes. Guys have their secret sauce, checkout Stan Wilson, he has a good bluing process that he would probably share with you if you asked. If it's not ss you can buy a cold bluing solution that will work, forgot the name.
 
By heat bluing blades...you totally screw up your heat treat and temper. You can use gun bluing or other chemicals. What steel are you using? For lots of steels, temper in the oven. An oxy torch is pretty hot for tempering. Each steel has a heat treating recipie...any heating after that compromises what you have done
 
Nic. said:
By heat bluing blades...you totally screw up your heat treat and temper. You can use gun bluing or other chemicals. What steel are you using? For lots of steels, temper in the oven. An oxy torch is pretty hot for tempering. Each steel has a heat treating recipie...any heating after that compromises what you have done
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Hot bluing does not destroy the blade or mess with the temper. The solution used evaporates over a certain temp like 310 f if I remember correctly. Temper temps are usually a lot higher than that. Bluing is used on gun barrels and knife blades for a long time without issue.

But definitely do not heat color a blade, you may be able to get a straw color during the last temp, but it's limited I'm shade.
 
Pittknife said:
Hot bluing does not destroy the blade or mess with the temper. The solution used evaporates over a certain temp like 310 f if I remember correctly. Temper temps are usually a lot higher than that. Bluing is used on gun barrels and knife blades for a long time without issue.

But definitely do not heat color a blade, you may be able to get a straw color during the last temp, but it's limited I'm shade.
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Sorry, let me clarify, I meant heat bluing like with a torch, and letting it change color because of heat...not with the use of a chemical. I should have said heat coloring, not heat bluing
 
thanks guys. I am just finishing my second semester at college, and the instructor says this is the way he has always done it. From now on
i will use the oven.
I have never had good luck with cold bluing on firearms, it looks blotchy. I prefer hot bluing. But I always get a really dark, almost black. I will look around and see what I can find. Thanks again
 
Ravenshurst said:
thanks guys. I am just finishing my second semester at college, and the instructor says this is the way he has always done it. From now on
i will use the oven.
I have never had good luck with cold bluing on firearms, it looks blotchy. I prefer hot bluing. But I always get a really dark, almost black. I will look around and see what I can find. Thanks again
Click to expand...

Lots of the old timers did it that way. The problem is tempering is TIME AND TEMP. If you have an oven, you can hold the temp for 1-2 hours, cool in water, and do it again. If you feel the need to draw the spine softer, use your torch after the oven. Even that, time is important. I have been working on the bend portion of the JS blade, and found I have to hold the temp way longer then I though. I have been doing 3-4 cycles and holding temp for 5-10 minutes to get to the 90 degree bend.
Yes, cold bluing doesn't look so good.
 
If you cold blue and run it back with steel wool, you can make it into an even finish that is kinda blue gray ish, but looks nothing like the blue you get from a torch unfortunately.
 
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