Blue Diamond spray application

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Feb 3, 2009
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My order arrived from JKS (you're next, Keith;)) and I would appreciate a few words of advice on applying the spray. I have MDF board, hard felt, leather, and legal pad cardboard to try it on. I just spritzed a bit on the MDF and it didn't absorb, it just sat there on top, in little pools in some spots. Do I rub it in and even and then let dry? What about getting it on/in the leather, cardboard, and felt... any tips? Muchos gracias.

Stitch,
I have enough (or will soon have enough) leather to dedicate one strop to bare, unloaded leather. I have used plain leather in the past and sometimes find that it leaves my edges too smooth. I generally like a crisp edge with some bite instead of having it smooth like glass. Personal preference is all.:) That's why I'm so excited to be trying this diamind spray as a finishing step instead of my old CrO crayon bar or plain leather which tend to flatten out the micro-serrations. I also understand that different steels respond differently to each of these finishing steps/materials.
 
I also understand that different steels respond differently to each of these finishing steps/materials.

That's a fact. Unfortunately, I don't know one from another... :(
I know the names. I know which of my knives has what. And I know how to get the edge I want on each. But as for the 'why' of it.... Something else for me to try to learn, I guess. Or maybe just pay attention to...

Let us hear about your results with the Blue Diamond Spray.


Stitchawl
 
Well, after just a few minutes with the spray I've got my Caly 3 and D2 Paramilitary sharper than I ever imagined possible... sharper than the factory edge, and that's saying alot considering the insane edge the Caly came with.

I started by running them both through a felt block to get rid of any burrs. First step was MDF with 1mic diamond. Then felt pad with same diamond. And last was leather with the diamond.

Even though I didn't think it was possible to get 'em any sharper, I next tried 0.3mic CrO powder on leather (I'm applying the powder dry until I can sort out in my head the various liquid/cream/oil carrier options). The Caly's VG-10 responded immediately and very well. I really like the feedback/resistance given with the CrO powder on leather, much more so than the 'slippery' feeling of the diamond spray. The Caly went from whittling hair after 1mic diamonds to popping hair after 0.3mic CrO powder. I am honestly affraid to even gently touch the edge now. The Para's CPM-D2 didn't fare as well with the CrO on leather (I haven't tried CrO powder on MDF or felt yet). To my eye and feel, there wasn't much of an improvement on the diamonds at all. I have no idea why that is.

I'm having a great time with this stuff! I'm almost embarrassed by how much amusement such things provide me. Can't wait to try out horse butt leather and the 0.5mic diamond spray from HA.

Apropos of nothing, I'm thinking that for my camping/hiking hone I will use a 2.5"x5" piece of MDF with 6mic diapaste on one side and this 1mic diamond spray on the other. Maybe also have one of the sides covered with leather. I know there are those who question the point and science of applying compound to leather, but I'm not one of them.:p

P.S. Is the wood in this pic MDF or an unidentified hardwood? I ask because my MDF doesn't look like that; the surface on mine is darker. The Lee Valley ad copy suggests using either for stropping with diamond compound but doesn't state which one is being used in the accompanying picture. Maybe what I have is not actually MDF (my cousin gave it to me... I've never seen a piece in my life) and that's why I'm not liking its performance as much as I probably should, given its high praise and reputation as an excellent substrate for diamond compound.
 

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Hard to tell from your picture, but MDF stands for multi density fiber. There will be no grain, only fibrous saw dust/shavings compressed into a board shaped material. If it is working, keep on it man! I have the 1 micron diamond spray from Japanese Knife Sharpening, and it is great. I also got some green cr03 and it really does do much for CPM 154 or D2, but the diamond spray does work some magic. I still need to work with the green on carbon steel like CV or Schrade steel. Looking forward to that. Keep up the inspiration and excitement. It is addicting.
 
Yes its MDF, its a very good stropping base and works much better if you sand the surface to around 600 grit. You will find the HA spray easier to apply, just spray let dry and strop, you do need to be careful when spraying on to MDF though if you get it to wet it will bubble.

When you used the 1mic on MDF did you see metal being removed from the first pass?
 
Yes its MDF

Hmmm... if that's MDF then I don't think I'm using actual MDF. This evening I will take and post a pic of the sideview cross section of what I'm using. But to just describe it, it is a bottom layer of some sort of treated, thin, hard paper (according to the guy I got it from); then a 2mm layer of wood with dark diagonal lines running through it; then 2mm layer of wood w/ no lines; then 2mm layer wood with diag lines; then 2mm layer wood w/o lines; then 2mm layer woood with diag lines; then top is the 'paper' again. Aweful description, sorry. So 5 layers of 2mm pieces of wood sandwiched between the hard 'paper.' Will try sanding with 600 grit.

When you used the 1mic on MDF did you see metal being removed from the first pass?

No. In fact after many, many passes I still don't see metal. Whereas the leather loaded with the diamond shows clear evidence of metal removal.
 
I just did an image search of MDF and none of the pics showed wood/board composed of layers. I think I just described a kind of plywood.:eek:
 
I just did an image search of MDF and none of the pics showed wood/board composed of layers. I think I just described a kind of plywood.:eek:


I think so ;)

MDF is what I use for the base of my leather strops too http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640503


MDF looks like compressed wood dust.

MDF should also work faster with the compound than the leather, evidence of metal removal should be seen with your first pass and you should be noticing polishing effects. Both my 12 carat HA and around 5 carat amplex show this type of results but DMT that is around 1 carat takes a few passes before showing removal or polishing.
 
I just did an image search of MDF and none of the pics showed wood/board composed of layers. I think I just described a kind of plywood.:eek:

With MDF you shouldn't see ANY layers. It's compressed fibers into a solid block. That's what gives it such good 'flat' retention. But be careful... do NOT get it wet. If you get big drops of liquid on it, it will swell and blister at that point. When you spray your compound, do so judiciously. If you want heavier coatings, do several light ones and let dry completely between them.

Stitchawl
 
I think so ;)

MDF is what I use for the base of my leather strops too http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640503


MDF looks like compressed wood dust.

MDF should also work faster with the compound than the leather, evidence of metal removal should be seen with your first pass and you should be noticing polishing effects. Both my 12 carat HA and around 5 carat amplex show this type of results but DMT that is around 1 carat takes a few passes before showing removal or polishing.

Sorry to interrupt, but are you using just the MDF sanded to 600 grit, with diamond spray on it? Also, is the MDF available at Lowe's/Home Depot?
 
Yes, I found a piece in the trim section 1x12x4 I think for about $8.

The sanding helps smooth the surface for a better feel while stropping with the diamond compound. It also removes surface imperfections.
 
Alright. Thanks, guys. Just got back from Lowes with a piece of the real deal large enough to make more strops than I need. I'll chop it up tomorrow and report back with undoubtedly improved results.

Any members in the Durham Region area of Ontario who want a pre-cut (3"x9") piece or two for free and can pick-up, just PM me.
 
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