blued fittings

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
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I'm working on a Bowie that I want to put blued fittings on, but I need to figure out how to set-up a hot blue tank. I keep getting told that hot blue will be 3 x's 9 better than cold blue.

Also, I'm not sure what the best steel is to use for this purpose.

Any help would be appreciated.

Nick
 
Hi Nick!
Hot bluing is MUCH better! I use Nitre Bluing salts from Brownells. I built the tank and burner myself.......nothing more than 1/4" mild steel plate, welded into a 3" wide X 20" long X 6" deep container. Burner was built from a 1" pipe with a bell fitting welded to the end, and three rows of #52 holes down it's length.
I've been using A-36 hot roll for all the bluing applications (commonly called "mild steel" enven though that's not a correct term)
Wrought iron works OK too, but tends to be a little "streaky". When bluing I would recommend that you blue all the parts at the same time, otherwise it's difficult to get the same shade on all of them.
The neat thing about the Nitre Blue is the options of colors it gives. With a careful eye, you can get just about any color you want from straw through sky blue.



------------------
Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.caffreyknives.com
 
I've been using a cold black solution for the last few years that have added years to my life by not having to suck bluing fumes into my lungs.

A company in Britian called Jenolite manufactures a product identified as KoldBlak that will convince the most hard-core 'hot' bluers. I also understand that this product is now available under a new name which I will try to get for you ASAP.

It takes a little time (half hour max) but the finish is impressive. I use a plastic window box as a tank and an old wire strainer as my basket. I use another window box for my oils and some rough wool cloths as my carder. This product will allow you to 'layer' your finish depending on the depth you want the finish to be. I have blackened Browning HiPowers, Wichester 94's (Pre and Post '64), Remington 700 actions and barrels and complete 870's all with great success. I find that the metal preparation is the key to any successful bluing and the same is true for this process as well. I've even refinished a couple of carbon steel blades.

Please note that this blackens carbon steels, NOT stainless.

Hope that these posts have given you some options worthy of consideration.

All the Best

Dileas Gu Brath
 
Wow, thanks for the quick response guys!

I'm really intrigued by both of these posts. I have a product called Van's Instant Gun Blue that was recommended by another maker, but I've never taken the time to try it yet.

I think I better try all three methods and see which works best for me.

Thanks again for the help, I sure appreciate it.

Nick
 
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