Blued seax (3pic)

sweet

sweet

Joined
Nov 11, 1999
Messages
1,525
Still needs to be cleaned up a little and maybe darkened a tad more..

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what's going on in the bottom pic? Is your Ferrous-etched blade the one you blued? Looks grey-ish. wonder what would happen to his etching....
 
Nice. Very nice. I've only blued my Rose and chiruwa AK so far, but that bluing looks so nice on HI's...I'd have to say it looks like it was meant to be on that seax. Nice, even finish. Very good job. You've got me thinking now, Sweet. I wish you'd posted this two days ago...I vinegar etched my seax yesterday. :)

Don't know about your sheathes, but if any are of the red variety, have you considered darkening them as well? I bought a bottle of Kiwi leather dye the other day for my boots and wound up using most of it on holsters and scabbards. :rolleyes: It looks far better than the red color if the knife in question is wood handled. Don't know about the horn (didn't have anything horn-handled with a red sheath) but I'm thinking it would look a bit...tactical? :)

Tactical seax? Don't laugh. If I can source a good sheath, mine is going on my LBV. It cuts, it chops, and it pokes like nobody's business. It would work as a weapon. It's light and small enough to carry around easily. What a knife! Good thing we've come so far since then, huh? ;)
 
Satori,
It doesn't have a hand guard. How important is that as a military knife, and for your use personally?



munk
 
Neat! I'm going to blue a villager... what brand/method blue did you use?

Hmm, "I'm going to blue a villager", that doesn't sound right... I mean no harm to anyone. :p

Ad Astra
 
Satori, i couldnt agree with your more about the noble simple seax. I just etched my seax in a filter cleaner/hand soap bath a week or so ago. Looks pretty good, but mine's a user has been beat on pretty good;)

AA, i know it's not the best blueing agent out there, but i have used Tru Blu on my villagers in the past. it seems to work really well for a user. I got a bottle of it for less than 6 bucks at wal mart and did about 3 khuks with 3 or 4 coats each. It was really easy to do. Just wash the khuk for several minutes in super hot water to get all of the oil and grease off of the blade. Wash it until water kind of rolls/evaporates off the blade fromt he heat. Dry it really well then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to get every speak of moisture off the blade. Then I would just follow the directions on the bottle. If you need more info i know there are several threads on it. That's were i learned how to do it:)

Jake
 
Thanks everyone!

Dan, dont know what that dark stuff is on my rune seax bc the blade is mirro polished...

Satori, all 3 sheaths I have are the dark brown type so darkening one would be simple

Ad Astra, I use Birchwood Casey's "Perma Blue" liquid gun blue only bc at 2am I could not find my Birchwood Casey's "Super Blue" liquid gun blue :rolleyes:

Steely_Gunz, post up your pics!
 
munk said:
Satori,
It doesn't have a hand guard. How important is that as a military knife, and for your use personally?
Click to expand...

I personally don't think it's important at all. As far as I'm concerned, a guard's primary purpose is to keep one's hand off the blade. The swell in the grip does a passable job of this.

Some would argue that a lack of a guard is a crippling defect for a fighting knife. I disagree with this strongly, but regardless, when's the last time I (or anyone else in the military) got in a knife fight? :)

For most of us, knives are tools first, weapons last. (Or, 99.9% of the time, never.)
 
I was going to try some Birchwood Casey on my practice sword (a sansibar). The blade has a pretty rough finish, and I couldn't get a hot vinegar & lemon juice etch to take. Do you think the blueing would work?

It's just a practice blade that comes in frequent contact with other practice blades ;) to the extent I have to take some sharp burrs off with sandpaper or a file every once in a while. so this would be more of a learning first experience with blueing rather than an attempt at artistry.
 
donutsrule said:
I was going to try some Birchwood Casey on my practice sword (a sansibar). The blade has a pretty rough finish, and I couldn't get a hot vinegar & lemon juice etch to take. Do you think the blueing would work?
Click to expand...
DR, the blueing will work as long as the blade is carbon steel and not stainless.
After the intermittenet cleanups it will be easy to touch up the blueing. Me Likey Blueing! :D :cool: :D

The two most important things are cleanliness and heat. I clean my blades with laquer thinner or any high power cleaner with no oil residue, can't think of the damned stuff at the moment, but available at the Home Stores.
Then I run the parts to be blued under straight hot water until any spots evaporate instantly when removed from the source.
Then just follow the directions.
 
Yvsa said:
DR, the blueing will work as long as the blade is carbon steel and not stainless.
After the intermittenet cleanups it will be easy to touch up the blueing. Me Likey Blueing! :D :cool: :D

The two most important things are cleanliness and heat. I clean my blades with laquer thinner or any high power cleaner with no oil residue, can't think of the damned stuff at the moment, but available at the Home Stores.
Then I run the parts to be blued under straight hot water until any spots evaporate instantly when removed from the source.
Then just follow the directions.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I just picked up a bottle of Perma-Blue so we'll see what happens. If it looks okay on the practice blade, I'll try my 12" Village AK next. :)
 
donutsrule said:
Thanks, I just picked up a bottle of Perma-Blue so we'll see what happens. If it looks okay on the practice blade, I'll try my 12" Village AK next. :)
Click to expand...
Great! :D
DR the other cleaner I couldn't think of last night is Acetone. You do have to be very careful with all of the high powered cleaners though. They are extremely flamable!
 
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