Blueing question

J. Neilson

J. Neilson

Joined
Feb 6, 2001
Messages
3,621
I'm sure I've asked a variation of this question before (since I've had these salts in my shop for a couple years now but, haven't had the time to try them.) ...anyway, I've got the pink Brownells blueing salts and was wondering if any carbon steels are easier to blue and if there were some that it's best to stay away from. I'm adding blued funiture to a knife and I've got most everything from 1018 to 1095 & most in between. Thanks.
 
Hi J. I've blued a good bit of high carbon. Mostly I've had good success but I concur with Ray. I have had some 52100 blades spot instead of uniformly blue for me. Simple carbon steels seem to blue just fine in my experience but I've also experienced some 1095 not staining in some areas while turning dark normally in others. Sometimes I can get these areas to improve some by using a fine 3M cratex wheel to slightly brush over the area that wouldn't stain but it isn't a cure all. I always assumed that some of these spots were due to some elements being mixed into the metal that simply prevent it from staining. I have a Marbles 1095 knife I blued a long time ago that has a 'chrome' spot on the tang that won't stain or rust. Stands out like a sore thumb. Go figure.

A friend of mine told me that you can buy an etch at Radio Shack that is used for etching circuit boards. Mix that 50/50 with white vinegar and you can change the color or blue it that way. This seems to be stronger to me than the store bought but it may also help in some tough areas if you run into any that don't change to a dark blue/black color for you.
 
Ed, I'm pretty sure the Marbles are W-1 but then again there really isn't much difference between that and 1095. Just showing you how smart I think I am.
 
The steels with less chrome come out the darkest but the best thing to do is make sure the finish is exactly the way you want it (bluing wont cover flaws) and clean the blade with dawn detergent and water just minutes before you blue it or the spots will be there. Dont touch the part with your bare hands (I just use a paper towel) after they are clean. I like the variations in colors that multiple steels provide. If You mess up just clean it to bare metal and try again.
 
J,
O-1 blues nicely and takes a nice dark blue color. Experiment with different steels and at different temps. Don't have any moisture on the parts when you immerse them because it will instantly turn to steam. After I blue I soak the parts in water displacing oil (WD-40) for a few hours like the instructions say.

Wear gloves and eye protection!
 
Ray this is a folder made for Marbles by Queen. I wrote Mike Stewart to ask him what the steel was in those folders and he said it was 1095 so I guess that is right. I said it was old, but it is a 2001 model. Not that old just an old pattern. It may be W1. I wouldn't know really. It stained everywhere but that one spot though which has always been a curious puzzle to me..
 
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