Blueing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ogre
  • Start date Start date
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Ogre

How do you get good results cold bluing... mine are turning out kinda "splotchy".

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
Wash your blade thoroughly in very hot water, using dishwashing detergent. You may then apply household bleach with a cotton swab. Use rubber gloves and do not let your bare skin come in contact with the metal. The one sure-fire cold blue is 44-40 from Brownells. I have tried them all and will sell quantities of the others cheap. It gives professional looking finishes. If you apply Johnson's liquid floor wax, undiluted, to the finished blueing, you'll get an awesome and long lasting effect. Try it, and ya' owe me one, preferably single malt.
 
Sweet - I will try it... My Culloden needs a better finish...

I dont think they sell that here in Utah...
Maybe a 3% beer?

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
I dont have my Culloden with me but tried it on some other metals... Looks very good...

What I am going for is not a BLACK BLUE - but a BLUE BLUE - A very Dark Midnight kinda blue...

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
It is very difficult to get a light (temper type) blue on steel. Your best option there is to try Pilkington's slow rust blue. It takes some work, and is not an instant process, but the results are worth your effort. A light blue, it looks a mile deep. Gun and knifemakers of the Colonial era used the method, and some original finishes still survive. Finish with Johnson's liquid floor wax. Pilkington's slow rust blue is sold by Brownells.
 
Sorry, my mind was on my cup of morning coffee, not on my posting. Pilkington's blue can be carried out (about 5-8 passes) to a deep, dark, lusterous blue blue. Complete instructions are available.
A true midnight blue, like on pre-war S&W revolvers was a charcoal/furnace process, and is not suitable for knife blades.
If your knife is assembled, rather than being a bare blade, you can still use the process by immersing the blade up to the cross guard in boiling water. Insulate the handle/grip to prevent heat distortion.
 
One of the best things to use to clean metaleven for cold bluing is Windex. If you are looking for a bright blue then you will probably need to have the item Nitre blued. The bright bule usually is ashieved atapproximately 400 to 450 degrees F.
Hope this is of help.

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Curtis Wilson -
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
 
Sweet, thanks...
I think I even have some of that stuff!
I'll let you know how it turns out...

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
From my years of gunsmithing experience I can say this. Commercial cold blues i.e. 44/40 or any similiar brand names are poor substitutes for "real" bluing. Depending on the steels makeup you might get fair results one day and cloudiness the next. The softer the steel the better for uniformity of color. Warming the metal until very warm to touch helps. Do not expect fantastic results from any of them unless they are a "real" formula for "cold"[versus caustic salts] bluing. If you have a dollar, you can also buy a cup of coffe with this info, but it might help. Keepem sharp, Ron
 
Thanks guys...
I used some elbo grease and a dremel and your sage advice... and the Culloden's blade is a spectacular deep midnight blue!

Very Nice results...

Now I want to blue every other knife I have too!
Can you blue GIN-1?

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
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