Bluing infi?

clampdaddy

clampdaddy

Joined
Aug 31, 2013
Messages
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Been thinking about what I want to do to the next knife I order. I don't like coated blades but I'm really likeing the looks of a black blade with green and black g10. Has anyone here tried bluing INFI? I'm curious to see how well it would take. Being that it is so rust resistant it makes me think that it wouldn't want to take regular cold bluing very well. If not, I do have a buddy with a set of bluing tanks and he has the salts for doing stainless. Anybody know what kind of heat a set of g10 handles can withstand?
 
There are a couple of examples of cold blued INFI where the blue took, but it would seem most experiences have been pretty ordinary with the finish wiping off. Not sure how one would got getting a hot blue.
 
Found this, but can't vouch for the accuracy:

"G-10/FR-4 is a thermosetting industrial laminate consisting of a continuous filament glass cloth material with an epoxy resin binder. It has characteristics of high strength, excellent electrical properties and chemical resistance not only at room temperature but also under humid or moist conditions.
G-10/FR-4 glass epoxy laminate meets the specifications of Mil-I-24768/27
G-10 & FR-4 also meet LP 509 & MIL P 18177 Type GEE
Maximum Continuous Operating Temperature: 285°F"
 
Thanks guys. I think I would be pushing the limits of that 285 degree threshold. If I remember right, when he blued one of my rifles the temperature he shot for was 265 but it went over that quite a few times. I guess I could always remove the handles for bluing and then send it back in to have them reinstalled.
 
Noxious Fumes said:
Resin.... You the man.....
Click to expand...

Just some google...


clampdaddy said:
Thanks guys. I think I would be pushing the limits of that 285 degree threshold. If I remember right, when he blued one of my rifles the temperature he shot for was 265 but it went over that quite a few times. I guess I could always remove the handles for bluing and then send it back in to have them reinstalled.
Click to expand...


Wow, I had no idea hot bluing was that hot. Must be very concentrated solutions, to get water that hot.
 
Yeah, Resin guy. The salt solidifies in the bottom of the tanks when it cools down and it takes some serious heat to get it into solution again. I just called him and my numbers were off. He said that right around 280 F. was the bare minimum heat to do the job and that 300 was his normal operating temp which gave him some wiggle room one way or the other.
 
Ya I'd say pull the scales to try it. I'd doubt it would be much of a charge to have the scales reset with new tube fasteners. Or track down the right material for fasteners and you might even try reinstalling them yourself. Looks pretty easy to flare the tubes from the threads in 'tinkering/embellishment.' If you do it please post some pictures, I'd love to see it. Here's some cold blue on SR101 which takes it readily, I doubt you'd get the same results with cold blue + INFI.

HgX7m8Z.jpg
 
I tried cold bluing a couple old-style Competition Finish knives. There's a thread here with several pictures.. The bluing seemed to take on the decarb, but didn't prevent rusting. Then I tried again a few years later with a different brand of blue. On the parts where the decarb was ground off, it didn't take too well. After a dozen or so applications, they looked like this:

 
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