BM 943 is this normal?

S

Scott321

Joined
Jul 20, 2016
Messages
1,052
I recently purchased a 940-2 and put a 943 blade on it. After EDCing the 943/940-2 hybrid for awhile it fell pretty freely with little-to-no side to side movement. Recently, I received two sets of beautiful scales from Deathgrips (review when I have more time), and transferred the blades. Taking out the 943 blade from the 940-2 handle, I noticed black grit in the pivot area. I cleaned it and lubed it up.

I had no such issue with the 940-2 blade/943 handle/pivot hybrid. Similarly when installing the custom scales on the second 94x hybrid, the action was smooth as silk with no side-to-side play.

After reassembling the 943blade/940-2 knife with its new scales, I tightened the pivot just enough so the blade showed no sings of side to side movement. The blade came out a little stiff, but I figured that maybe I needed to keep using it for it to break in again... even though the pivot/liners were the same as before (broken in prior to disassembly). After about one week of EDC, it still hadn't loosened up. Today, I decided to take the blade out and check the washers to see if more black crud had built up, and sure enough there was (pics below).

As you can see in the pics, the black is being scraped off of the pivot (pic 1). Upon further inspection, the machined area of the blade the pivot mounts in looks to have striations/ribs (pic 2). So... is this normal? Will this eventually reduce the integrity of the pivot area?

Last pic is of the knife with my M9, of which I was trying to match the grips to. Great job Deathgrips!

Pic 1:
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Pic 2:
20160815_140818-1.jpg


Deathgrips%20knife%20plus%20Wilson%20grips%20pistol.jpg
 
Update:

After taking the blade out again to check for more black grit, I noticed some irregularity underneath the washer (probably from an over application of blue loctite when I first disassembled the knife). I lightly wet sanded with 1500 grit and reassembled. It seems very smooth without side to side play now. I just have to wait 24 hours for the loctite to cure before I put it back in my EDC sheath.

Here's some before and after pics of the area:

cd0e890e-d5dc-4863-abf3-85c7c12f156d.jpg

20160816_081557.jpg


20160816_075830-1.jpg

20160816_081610-1.jpg
 
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Nice work. Bet the blade's smooth to deploy. Gents, again it's always faster to call BKC for questions or requests. Emails seem to be a last resort for them. Your mileage may vary.
 
IMO & experience remoil leaves a lot to be desired, I'd suggest you switch to a light weight hi performance grease and see how that works out for you.
 
I don't have any experience with remoil, but I lube my Griptillians with a specialized silicone spray. It's called "Blastr". I coat the internal workings with it and once the oil is worked in, I wipe off the excess and let it ride. Just my $0.02
 
From my understanding, feel free to correct, Remington oil is more a penetrating oil than a lubricating oil, similar to WD40 in both its actual and perceived use.

As we now know, WD40 was marketed as the end all all-purpose cleaning and lubricating oil.. and we bought it for over a decade when it really never lubricated from our own experience with it for over a decade.

Now I haven't seen any Rem oil ads of late, but it's online promotional presence makes the use for the Rem Oil still quite ambiguous and still leaning toward it being a lube when it's not really. It's more a solvent.

Although, I see you did use 3-1 regardless which is a general all-purpose oil. Light and more intended as a protective oil coat than actual lubricating oil.

As mentioned, silicon oil is a good choice for moving internal parts. There's also lithium and calcium. Both said to be the optimal oils for little watch pieces and stuff.

Sometimes, oils can mix making other gunky oil. Could be.
 
wensynch said:
From my understanding, feel free to correct, Remington oil is more a penetrating oil than a lubricating oil, similar to WD40 in both its actual and perceived use.

As we now know, WD40 was marketed as the end all all-purpose cleaning and lubricating oil.. and we bought it for over a decade when it really never lubricated from our own experience with it for over a decade.

Now I haven't seen any Rem oil ads of late, but it's online promotional presence makes the use for the Rem Oil still quite ambiguous and still leaning toward it being a lube when it's not really. It's more a solvent.

Although, I see you did use 3-1 regardless which is a general all-purpose oil. Light and more intended as a protective oil coat than actual lubricating oil.

As mentioned, silicon oil is a good choice for moving internal parts. There's also lithium and calcium. Both said to be the optimal oils for little watch pieces and stuff.

Sometimes, oils can mix making other gunky oil. Could be.
Click to expand...

I've since changed my oiling procedure now that my collection is growing. The 3-1 I used in the above post was the PTFE version (Teflon). Rem Oil also has Teflon in it. I've now switched to RemOil for cleaning and protective coating, and Hoppe's 9 for lubricating. I notice a significant increase in lubricity with the Hoppe's 9 vs the 3-1 PTFE and Rem Oil. I usually add 2 drops (one to each side of the blade at the washers) every 2-4 weeks.

Probably not the best oils, but for me the price/performance as well as local store availability works out well.
 
I literally did the same thing. Swapped 940-2 and 943 blades for a few weeks then I put them back and the 943 blade had black markings just like the above. Think I might have gotten a tiny bit of grit on the blade or the washer during reassembly. I took the sharpmaker fine ceramic to it a bit, took extra precaution to make sure there was no chance of getting any grit between the blade and the washer, and it ended up super smooth and free falls with no blade play.

Also, I highly recommend Ballistol. Its main ingredient is medical grade mineral oil. Use it on everything I own and the longer you use it the better it gets.
 
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