BM210 - Snody Activator Review

Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
1,373
This is a preliminary report on the “Activator” – a full report will be published on our website later.

Out of the box the knife is 5-7/8” long, has a 2-1/10” blade with a cutting edge of 1-7/8”. The blade is a flat ground drop point and at its widest is 7/8” and is just over 1/8” thick. The blade steel is S30V at 60-61HRC and the edge bevels are even at 15 degrees or thereabouts. The handle is a combination of silver G10 and black carbon fibre making it an attractive package. The scales are attached with 4 or 8 (dependant how you look at it) TX screws and it has the obligatory thong hole. A finger groove gives the handle a comfortable grip. The top of the blade is grooved for 1-1/4” to provide a thumb grip which is not uncomfortable or sharp.

The leather pouch sheath, spurned by many, has a large belt loop and the sheath holds the knife securely and the sheath rides comfortably on the belt. I prefer leather but I could see that a Kydex sheath would be good for pocket, belt and neck carry.

Out of the box the blade just cut through a ¾” by 3/16” leather strip 1/8” from the end but could only cut half way through 6” from the end. The blade cut through ¾ of a 3/8” manila rope before slipping. On cardboard it sliced and pushed well ½” from the end but at about 2” in it started to stick. This is a thick blade for its size. It did sharpen a ½” hardwood dowel but needed some force and wasn’t cutting cleanly towards the end. In the kitchen despite its size it sliced a small overripe tomato but only managed to get through ½ a fresh carrot at the top end before splitting. It passed the chicken test deboning a leg and thigh but baulking a bit at the sinews and then it sliced the meat into cubes.

After 20 strokes on the coarse rods of the Sharpmaker it was put to work on leather, rope, cardboard and dowels for more extensive tests. Briefly the results were as follows:

1. Leather – it cut cleanly at all stages including 6” from the end;
2. Rope – was a different matter the short blade had trouble with the 3/8” manila (or maybe I did) so I put it to work on ¼” strands which it cut well.
3. Cardboard – an improved performance and cut well although it still “hung up” on push cuts on wider pieces. The edge has an aggressive finish and a polished edge may have done better; and
4. Dowel – it worked well repeatedly cutting points.

At this stage the blade would no longer shave arm hair but it only took 10 strokes on the coarse rods to bring it back.

I haven’t had much of an opportunity to test the Activator in the field. In the shop it worked well opening cartons and cutting nylon straps etc. As I haven’t come across any roadkills it hasn’t been tested on game but if I were to use it on rabbits, hares and foxes I think I would put a finer point on the blade. The Activator proved adept at carving and whittling including spoons – the point is not fine but sharp and stout and proved excellent for whittling out the hollow of the spoons. In the bush it easily carved symbols in the bark of grey box eucalypts and stripping fallen branches of the bark.

In conclusion this is no scalpel like small blade but a stout little knife that should take plenty of punishment. The S30V held its edge well and it was easy to bring back to par. One could be tempted to reprofile the edge but this could work against the robustness of the knife. The ergonomics of the knife are good, feels good in the hand despite its small size. I didn’t come across any hot spots but the knife could prove slippery in wet conditions. I don’t see this knife has having any SD or survival uses. One word of warning this review may contain some bias in that I have small hands and I would definitely recommend getting a feel of the knife before buying.

Such a knife is not everyone’s cup of tea it could be suggested that the blade should have been hollow ground to give it better slicing ability and finer point. A more textured finish of the handle would be better in slippery conditions. It is also fair to say that a Kydex sheath option would give it more flexibility. The other complaint I had is that it was loose in the box and the handle received a blue stain from rubbing against the box. It could have been presented in one of those nice little bags the folders come in.

For me the Activator is going in the fixed blade rotation and I will carry it with a large folder like the Paramilitary.
 
JDBLADE said:
...the short blade had trouble with the 3/8” manila
I do all my stock rope cutting on 2" of edge. With a medium finish on the Spyderco rods this should not be a problem with an efficient edge profile, you can get under 10 lbs on a draw easily.

In conclusion this is no scalpel like small blade but a stout little knife that should take plenty of punishment.
Am I thinking of the right blade :

http://www.knivesplus.com/benchmade-knife-activator-bm-210.html

At 1/8" thick with a full height flat grind I would have benchmarked it almost completely opposite the niche you described.

-Cliff
 
Hey JD...

Good review..
Nice little knife....

Here is a picture of my Concealex sheath for the 210 and 220..

resistor220.jpg


ttyle

Eric...
 
JDBLADE said:
After 20 strokes on the coarse rods of the Sharpmaker ...
If you have the time, you may want to look at similar work with the fine rods, to clarify if the difference in cutting ability is due to the finish or the initial quality of the NIB edge.

-Cliff
 
Posted by Cliff Stamp
At 1/8" thick with a full height flat grind I would have benchmarked it almost completely opposite the niche you described.

Yes! I would have thought so too! But, the blade is quite thick for its entire length and doesn't start to taper off until about 3/4" from the tip and is still 1/16" thick 1/4" from the tip. Also, it is not a full flat grind in that at its widest the grind does not start until 3/16" from the back of the blade. As the blade is set up out of the box I couldn't see anyone breaking the tip with heavy duty carving in hardwood EG.

Hopefully I can get some pics., taken over the next couple of days which will give a better view of the profile.
 
So the primary grind width is ~11/16", yeah that is fairly shallow for 1/8", it should be about an inch. How thick is the edge behind the bevel?

-Cliff
 
It's too early to go hunting for my micrometre but I would estimate it to be about 1/64" (measured with plastic verniers) - noticeably thicker than the Calypso Jr.
 
That is where I would assume a bit hit on cutting performance is being taken. This is one of the big differences between Benchmade and Spyderco.

-Cliff
 
And, this is what creates problems for Knife Reviewers, esp., if the review is slanted towards the average knife buyer instead of the majority of buyers who frequent this type of forum. In the case of the Activator a competant person will be able to reprofile the blade so that it performs better but the average knife buyer who comes into a shop and says "I like that knife - how would it perform on fox's?" is different. He/she normally has neither the competance or the patience to reprofile such a blade and if you replied "Well the blade is a bit thick and you will have to reprofile it for it to be satisfactory on fox's." Will probably ask to be shown a knife that will work out of the box and will be easy to sharpen.

It is hard to understand why a firm like Benchmade can not match Spyderco in the "out of the box" department.
 
Nice review JD. You are one of those whose recommendations I feel comfortable with.
 
gajinoz said:
Nice review JD. You are one of those whose recommendations I feel comfortable with.
Thanks Mate! I try to give an honest review of the knife as it is.
 
You are right about the reprofiling needed on this little fella Jdee, was one of the first things I did with mine, thinned out the edge on a diamond stone before puting a final 30 degree edge on the sharpmaker. Its a shame to have to spoil its nice factory finnish to achieve the performance required of such a small blade, but well worth the trouble if it is going to be a user.
 
JDBLADE said:
It is hard to understand why a firm like Benchmade can not match Spyderco in the "out of the box" department.
Different market I think. Benchmades are more for the "tactical" market while Glesser wants his to cut well.

-Cliff
 
I am in 2 minds about reprofiling mine too much - I will probably put it on the Diamond Stone in the future but at the moment I want to see how it goes as is because as I said in the review it is a stout little knife which cuts well, of course it can cut better but whether I want to make that trade-off at the moment I don't know. From the use I have had out of it so far, whilst it hasn't been abused, it certainly has done things I wouldn't do with my other small knives EG the Krein TK1 and the Katz Vets. What's your view - has the reprofiling "weakened" the knife or has it remained much the same?
 
has the reprofiling "weakened" the knife or has it remained much the same?
I think that putting a thinner edge on such a short blade reduces the force required to make the cut, thus negating any reduction in the strength of the edge. As this type of knife is not one that I would use for chopping or other impact type requirements, the thinner edge has more pro's than con's. I feel that Benchmade puts a serviceable edge on their knives that will suit most peoples general usage, but I feel that they are a little obtuse to get the most out of the high quality steels that they use, and thus reprofile them to suit my specific needs.
 
Adjusting the edge angle down weakens the edge dramatically, of course the initial edge angle is likely way overbuilt so you have a lot of toughness to give away. I run my personal EDC knives at around ~5 degrees per side, they work find on woods, cardboard, ropes, foods, plastics, etc. . They won't cut metal well, nor would I do press cuts through or around even chicken joints.

Most tactical folders outside of Spyderco run at ~20 degrees per side, my large choppers are only 15 per side and these cut knots with no problems and light to medium bone, so you have to ask yourself what does a small folder need with 20. On folders I see problems once the edge dips down under 15 and heads towards 10, now the edge will tend to get visibly damaged cutting light metals like food cans.

If you eliminate metals and bones, and take care not to twist in knot contacts, you can grind the edges down to nothing, i.e. match the primary grind, assuming a decent steel. This isn't a sensible path for a production folder, as if you hit a staple then you would have a large visible notch in the blade so it could easily give a company a reputation for fragility.

-Cliff
 
As I understand it the BM210 is at the higher HRC whilst the limited edition is at the lower HRC it could be wrong but that was what was on the site when I checked and also on the Benchmade Forum when a question was asked.
 
Back
Top